Su-27, work in progress

Soldato
Joined
17 Sep 2003
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Just thought I'd post an update of my latest project - this is the Su-27UB (two seater) used by the Russian Knights display team.

The kit is by Academy in 1/48 scale, I have used a resin cockpit and corrected nosecone , and an aftermarket decal set made by a Russian manufacturer. Even in 1/48 this is a big model :o

size1.jpg


Instrument panel and cockpit details

cockpit2.jpg


cockpitnearly.jpg


Scratchbuilt undercarriage piping

cables6.jpg


Primed and ready for the paint job

firstprime1.jpg


Markings masked with tape and sprayed (took a week)

blue1.jpg


stripes.jpg


Vertical stabilisers masked and spray painted

tail1.jpg


How she stands currently

tails2.jpg


tails1.jpg


tails6.jpg


Here's the real one in action

 
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Can i ask a question, how did you go from this:


I.e, how did you bring out the details?

Sure :)

The whole model was given 2 coats of Johnsons Klear floor polish - basically an acrylic gloss varnish. It was then rubbed and polished with sanding cloths to get a nice all over and even shine.

After this comes the wash - on this model I use the Promodeller wash which is a clay based black wash that you brush over the entire airframe and then rub off with a damp kitchen towel when dry. The residue remains in all of the panel line and recessed details making them stand out much better.

http://www.promodeller.com/buy-the-wash/
 
Cheers fellas :)

i have a Saab draken that needs airbrushing an finishing. one of my friends, gave me this AZTEK airbrush kit, with all the heads etc..just havent got round to using it yet. :/

im scared to give it a go incase i mess it up. lol.

Azteks are very much chalk and cheese airbrushes, they used to be all the rage a few years ago but seem to suffer from a reputation of being a bit prone to breakage, still, if you google work by Chris Wauchop you will see what that brush is capable of doing in his hands.

Go for it, nothing ventured ;)
 
Re the ProModeller wash, to be honest it isn't my first choice of wash as it is quite stark, I used it on this particular model as I wanted quite defined panel lines to break up the large expanses of dark and light colours - its basically defined as a 'sludge' wash, ie it goes on as a mixture that fills the panel line and the residue is wiped off when dry with a damp cloth.

Like Pieman my normal choice of wash is artists oil paint thinned with turps - you can control the intensity of the wash much better this way and create more subtle effects.

Phil - posts some pics up, lets' have a look :)
 
Does Klear suffice in this case? I do have Tamiya Clear as well, but the Spit has 3 layers of Klear already. I've just wiped off the Pro Wash, or most of it. It's horrible stuff to be honest. I might have to sell the pots I have here. I can't get on with it.

I'll get the oil paint tomorrow - what am I looking for? Burnt Umber?

Can I suggest Abteilung Oil paints ? Really nice quality and odourless turps so the wife can't complain about the pong ;)

http://www.netmerchants.co.uk/section.php/942/1/mig_502_abteilung_oils

Burnt Umber and Black are a good starter :)
 
been using windsor and newton for yonks now, works well but don't half pong:p
Skii, any idea where I can get some acrylic paint retarder from? I've started using acrylics and find they dry a bit too quickly for my taste and tend to clog the airbrush when doing fine work (though this could be down to the paint mix being a bit on the thick side.

Hey mate

We were just discussing this very thing recently

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29241&hl=retarder

Either Windsor and Newton or Daler Rowney do their own brands, both available from Hobbycraft or any arts supplier :)
 
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