Temperature issues

stuie

stuie

stuie

Soldato
Joined
29 May 2012
Posts
3,286
Location
Dorset
Having just done a very long over due upgrade to my machine I thought it was time to freshen up the loop with new fluid and tubes but having done so ive now caused myself a problem

So loop order to start with

Pump/Res > 3090 > 420Rad > CPU > 280Rad

I currently have a massive temperature issue. Ive had to fully remove the overclock on my cpu just to get it booted to windows, and as soon as I go into a game the gpu hits 80c just in the loading screen. Pre Maintanance the GPU never went above 55c after a few hours of gaming

The water temperature in the rads isnt getting warm so Im assuming a flow issue is causing it, the top of the loop is the 420 rad so thats my suspect

Ive spent 2 days shaking, rotating etc, but given all ive done is replace tubes, stuck some fresh x1 premix in and repasted the cpu with some mx-4, I cant belive theres a fault in the loop so it must be air right?

After any advice / reassurance ive not broken anything, given the system boots and im typing this on it, nothing massive can be broken right?
 
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Pump is running around 4000rpm

No disto block

Gpu is running in on the left side out on the right side

If it was just gpu and it was bypassing that block, the cpu would still be cool wouldnt it?

My only thought is that the cards block is directional and that's somehow causing the flow issue

It's a zotac 3090 Arctic storm
 
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wookiee87 said:
is it a gpu problem?, you mention you took the oc off the cpu to get windows to boot, how have you got the tubes configured on the gpu?, if you have them on both sides rater than either side it can potentially bypass the block effectively starving your gpu of cool liquid.
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The cpu is overheating too. Which makes me think its a flow issue
 
Can't see the return flow sadly.

And yes system was fine before I did what I thought was a clean up.

It's a d5 so there should be plenty of head lift and flow

Beginning to think I should have just left it, it's was fine for years

Feel like I'm going to need to drain it all and start again lol
 
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Its on its back currently but you get the idea
 
Its fresh water and tubes, its an orange uv reactive water.

Gives me something to work with though ill strip it down and start again. I wouldnt be suprised to be honest it did go about a decade with no maintanance prior to this I did flush it with battery water a couple times but maybe it needs more than that

Thanks all
 
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im4gine3 said:
won't be the issue but wondered.. is the water premix, or you add concentrate to it..

If the latter, i'd personally fill it with clear till i know its fully working, before adding any dye to finish.
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Premix

Ill go down the clear deionised route for a bit till its sorted
 
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wookiee87 said:
Try to take all the blocks apart and give them a really good clean, also flush each radiator and make sure coolant flows through them before putting it all back together, its not unheard of that some rads arn't built correctly and they have a inlet but the return out is sealed somewhere deeper in the rad. if thats the case you'll need a replacment rad.
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By sealed you mean blocked?

Its not a new rad and was running fine for years
 
wookiee87 said:
you can get rads that are sealed on one end from the factory, its rare but can happen, but if you've had it working fine for years then something else is wrong, as others have sugested and you a full teardown is needed and check the blocks and rads to be 100% sure.

you can make a loop just with your pump, connect the intel and outlet together and you'll be able to tell in the pump is working, the flow will be crazy fast and easy to see.
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Yeah like a decade or so these arnt new rads

Sounds like an excuse for a well over due teardown, and maybe some newer parts to match that 3090
 
huston weve found the problem

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At least now I know what happens to a loop with zero maintanance for a decade

Just glad ive found an explaination
 
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Rebuild complete distilled only at the moment but after about an hour of gaming at stock, 3090 never got above 38c and 3770k nothing above 52

Going to give it a few days to see how things go then drain at the weekend and refill with premix
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
Thought it could be
Was just curious
Been tempted to make an offer on one before
They seem to be in B grade quite often
But ocuk don't seem to sell them
As new
Made me wonder how/why they were B grade
Any sign it had been opened and used?
The packaging opened I meant not the block
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Nope, box had a few scuffs on it but card was like new, still had the stickers over the power connectors. May have been opened for inspection but thats about all
 
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