The big clean

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As you may have seen, got a new car last week:

front3.jpg


The plan now is to get it cleaned and prepped and then protect the paintwork. I'm hoping that with a good initial prep it won't take much to keep it up.

I'm on a budget and I have no rotary/porter cable so I delved in to the garage, worked out what I could reuse and purchased a few new bits and bobs:

cleaning.jpg


The plan is as follows:

1.) Foam wash (to get the initial gunk off) then rinse
2.) Normal mitt wash (two buckets)
3.) Clay bar whilst still damp
4.) Quick detail and pat dry
5.) When dry, use a bit of SSR2 (abrasive) to correct any marks
6.) Use the polish, buff to a nice finish
7.) Apply the glaze, hoping for a really nice finish
8.) Apply the sealant to keep all the goodness in.
9.) Top it off with a nice wax. Hoping this really sets it off.
10.) Clay bar the glass and apply glass polish to the interior and exterior
11.) Apply another coat of wheel sealant (did this initially when I got the car, really makes washing the wheels easy)
12.) Apply a nice glossy finish to the tyres

Estimated time? All day, possibly in to the next. Tedious maybe, hoping it'll be nice and satisfying when finished.

That is until I roll off the drive and get the car dirty, it is black after all.

Shall update with pics tomorrow!
 
[TW]Fox said:
And people pay thousands more than a used car for this? :confused:

Not to mention, all polish is an abrasive, the SSR2 is quite mild whereas my polish and glaze are not abrasive at all. Thus I am using the SSR2 as a polish rather than a de-swirler.
 
mrk said:
Looks good!


I hand wash mine and noticed the first time I washed it that there were swirl marks mainly on the bonnet area, what's the best method to restoring it would you reckon ? I use autoglym gloss restorer after a wash and have noted an improvement but the swirly marks are still there in bright sunlight!

By hand? Meg's Scratch-X with AutoGlym SRP. The Scratch-X will lessen the swirl affect and the SRP will fill them in.

To get rid of them completely you have to use some form of machine to be realistic. Unless you're he-man.
 
As previously though, didn't have many pics as tired (in retrospect, I must have covered my car over 12 times, pain!).

"Kwalitee" foam lance. This was el cheapo version "Karcher's own" with some Meg's Gold Class. No high end snow foam for me ;) This was taken about 30-60 secs after applied, as you can imagine, my car looked like it had been snowed on.

lance.jpg


Bit of masking to help protect my plastics

masked.jpg


Random high ISO shot of the car, must be either post polish or post glaze as I couldn't apply the glaze when the car was outside due to the sun being out

glaze.jpg


Waiting for the sealant to dry...

sealant.jpg
 
And back home, all finished.... must cut the grass and sort that moss out :D

finished1.jpg


finished2.jpg


Obligatory bonnet reflection shot, reduced in size as I look like a gimp with a camera

finished3.jpg
 
Might do in pics, have to remember it was dusk and I was using a high ISO.

The paint def looks darker... wetter if you will and sharper/shinier. Also have to remember that Honda paint leaves the factory with an orange peel finish so all in all, it's not a bad reflection :D
 
wohoo said:
Whats the point of the sealant? if your waxing after the glaze then do you really need the sealant?

Also how do you find the victoria wax for longevity, im thinking about trying some when my collonite 915 finishes.

Yes, the sealant should last longer whilst the wax will only last a few months. Not sure on the longevity as this is the first time I've used it.

I also find a wax finish superior to a sealant finish.
 
Oblivious said:
I think as Shaz explained it looks different in the flesh most likely. Cameras arent that good at capturing things like this.

The main point in my opinion, is that the paintwork is now protected a little more, and future washes will be fair easier once it get dirty.

Quite, it looks far deeper and far glossier in the flesh.

And now I can go ice skating on salt for fun.
 
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