***The Official Guitar Thread***
- Thread starter Nitefly
- Start date
Man of Honour
- Joined
- 29 Mar 2003
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And another new toy to replace my massive heavy Behringer X32 Digital Mixer
Allen & Heath CQ18T
Allen & Heath CQ18T
Attacked the rear with a 40 git flapper wheel.. it's looking remarkably like a Breaking Bad accident in the garage right now.. good thing I replaced the particulate filter on my face mask yesterday...
The inside rear arch is looking good.. and it's starting to ring a little, still a way to go.. but enough fun for today.
The inside rear arch is looking good.. and it's starting to ring a little, still a way to go.. but enough fun for today.
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Almost there on the front plate - between 9.2 and 13.7mm depending on location. The target is 8mm as a starting point for tuning, then I'll start moving the centre portion towards 6mm and the outer edge contours towards 4.5mm. This creates the movement area for the top to resonate. It may go thinner but for now that's the plan.
The rear plate centre is 15.7mm thickness so that will come down towards 10mm and then tune from there. The rear plate has a different function as it's usually thicker in order to be stiffer. The reason is the plate is there to reflect sound (and focus it a little) rather than resonate as much as the front plate.
I think 1 more day of hackery will bring the front plate down to the starting point 8mm. There's still a few pin pricks for the depth brad holes remaining after today. The rear needs a more taken off - I think a 120-grit wheel will do great to accelerate this.
The rear plate centre is 15.7mm thickness so that will come down towards 10mm and then tune from there. The rear plate has a different function as it's usually thicker in order to be stiffer. The reason is the plate is there to reflect sound (and focus it a little) rather than resonate as much as the front plate.
I think 1 more day of hackery will bring the front plate down to the starting point 8mm. There's still a few pin pricks for the depth brad holes remaining after today. The rear needs a more taken off - I think a 120-grit wheel will do great to accelerate this.
I went to Peach Guitars this week and it absolutely blew my mind. Check out these photos, phwoar! 
The image of me holding the Tom Anderson shows some of the guitars I tried out; I was gauging whether neck depth made a significant difference to wrist discomfort… my conclusion was… not really. Although I didn’t really play anything skilful, as I’ve been mostly ‘down tools’ the last few months and I didn’t want to play anyone’s material for fear of embarrassingly messing it up.
The Gibson Custom Axxess (sp?) guitar sounded amazing, just had a bit of extra fullness compared to the TA pickups, but the TAs were in a league of their own re: necks. I dropped off my existing TA for a Plek job, possibly a bit pointless as it has stainless steel frets, but it wanted it set up to pro standards in E flat so why not have it health checked and Plek’ed at the same time.
The PRS with the DGT looked beautiful but the neck was blergh, it was all grainy, 100% rosewood I think… whatever it was… nope not for me. Also tried a Strandburg with the ergonomic neck and fanned frets which was pretty interesting!
Also… now booked in for the hand surgery… wish me luck *gulp*
The image of me holding the Tom Anderson shows some of the guitars I tried out; I was gauging whether neck depth made a significant difference to wrist discomfort… my conclusion was… not really. Although I didn’t really play anything skilful, as I’ve been mostly ‘down tools’ the last few months and I didn’t want to play anyone’s material for fear of embarrassingly messing it up.
The Gibson Custom Axxess (sp?) guitar sounded amazing, just had a bit of extra fullness compared to the TA pickups, but the TAs were in a league of their own re: necks. I dropped off my existing TA for a Plek job, possibly a bit pointless as it has stainless steel frets, but it wanted it set up to pro standards in E flat so why not have it health checked and Plek’ed at the same time.
The PRS with the DGT looked beautiful but the neck was blergh, it was all grainy, 100% rosewood I think… whatever it was… nope not for me. Also tried a Strandburg with the ergonomic neck and fanned frets which was pretty interesting!
Also… now booked in for the hand surgery… wish me luck *gulp*
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Soldato
- Joined
- 21 Jan 2010
- Posts
- 4,067
I tried Waltz no 2 by Shostakovich last night.
It has some awkward stretches, but is a banging choon.
It's now stuck in my head, on loop, which is annoying.
It has some awkward stretches, but is a banging choon.
It's now stuck in my head, on loop, which is annoying.
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I went to Peach Guitars this week and it absolutely blew my mind. Check out these photos, phwoar!
The image of me holding the Tom Anderson shows some of the guitars I tried out; I was gauging whether neck depth made a significant difference to wrist discomfort… my conclusion was… not really. Although I didn’t really play anything skilful, as I’ve been mostly ‘down tools’ the last few months and I didn’t want to play anyone’s material for fear of embarrassingly messing it up.
The Gibson Custom Axxess (sp?) guitar sounded amazing, just had a bit of extra fullness compared to the TA pickups, but the TAs were in a league of their own re: necks. I dropped off my existing TA for a Plek job, possibly a bit pointless as it has stainless steel frets, but it wanted it set up to pro standards in E flat so why not have it health checked and Plek’ed at the same time.
The PRS with the DGT looked beautiful but the neck was blergh, it was all grainy, 100% rosewood I think… whatever it was… nope not for me. Also tried a Strandburg with the ergonomic neck and fanned frets which was pretty interesting!
Also… now booked in for the hand surgery… wish me luck *gulp*
That is a very dangerous shop..
Yes... yes it is...!
Tech called me today re: the plek, so should have that back in hand next week.... although it is an absolute arse to drive to
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I've bought the front plate height down to it's final heights, the plate thickness still needs more work - it's 9.8-11mm current but it should be progressing towards 6mm and then the edges towards 4.5mm. I'm looking for a drum like "doooong" ringing sound rather than a thud but the camera isn't the best at picking up the low ringing at the end of the video for example:
I ended up using the brad point to make hundreds of contour holes to get the right curve to remove the damn router mess. It's now fully removed and I'm happy. After drilling a 120-grit wheel, then onto 120 and 240-grit sheet sanding.
Looking forward to getting this tuned up..
I ended up using the brad point to make hundreds of contour holes to get the right curve to remove the damn router mess. It's now fully removed and I'm happy. After drilling a 120-grit wheel, then onto 120 and 240-grit sheet sanding.
Looking forward to getting this tuned up..
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Rear and front plates are almost ready to start tuning (yes really after all the "it's coming along posts).
Front plate surface pin holes have been sanded out, the rear I've opened the aperture (think like a speaker - thicker centre, thinner edges to move, before going thicker on the rim. We're talking accuracy in the <1mm... Front sounds like a tom-tom which is reassuring point to start tuning.
The rear plate upper surface as been taken fully down to the final curve, scraped and sanded. The inside is still thicker but I will have a second look at that as I tune at a later date.
So the tuning is going to be interesting.
Basically you make it resonate, add glitter and look at the patterns. Where the patterns are lop sided, then the top is not symmetrical, where the lines are not sharp indicates that either the top needs some wood thickness reduced, or the whole thing is not stuff enough. Just needs about 20-30W of frequencies.. going to get loud
Front plate surface pin holes have been sanded out, the rear I've opened the aperture (think like a speaker - thicker centre, thinner edges to move, before going thicker on the rim. We're talking accuracy in the <1mm... Front sounds like a tom-tom which is reassuring point to start tuning.
The rear plate upper surface as been taken fully down to the final curve, scraped and sanded. The inside is still thicker but I will have a second look at that as I tune at a later date.
So the tuning is going to be interesting.
Basically you make it resonate, add glitter and look at the patterns. Where the patterns are lop sided, then the top is not symmetrical, where the lines are not sharp indicates that either the top needs some wood thickness reduced, or the whole thing is not stuff enough. Just needs about 20-30W of frequencies.. going to get loud
Slowly thicknessing the front plate .. the measurements are 0.xx(x) of an inch thickness.
The edge needs to get to 0.196" (5mm) or 0.177" (4.5mm) where as the middle should be getting towards 0.275" (7mm) to 0.236" (6mm). I'm using the archaic measurement system because my indicator dial is in inches with 0.0005" per mark which confusingly reads 0.01 every 20 (20x0.0005, and the dial goes around twice for every 0.1" - confusing huh!) because they're cheap to simply change the dial facia and not the gearing inside lol. Anyway I'm getting used to it now..
The sound is starting to open up, there's more 'dooong' than 'thud' and the tone of the dong is slowly dropping.. I've put it on the pattern test - some is working but the top is too thick to really get a proper vibration without almost burning up the coils of the speaker driver. Will post again later with some footage once this is a little more reduced.
The edge needs to get to 0.196" (5mm) or 0.177" (4.5mm) where as the middle should be getting towards 0.275" (7mm) to 0.236" (6mm). I'm using the archaic measurement system because my indicator dial is in inches with 0.0005" per mark which confusingly reads 0.01 every 20 (20x0.0005, and the dial goes around twice for every 0.1" - confusing huh!) because they're cheap to simply change the dial facia and not the gearing inside lol. Anyway I'm getting used to it now..
The sound is starting to open up, there's more 'dooong' than 'thud' and the tone of the dong is slowly dropping.. I've put it on the pattern test - some is working but the top is too thick to really get a proper vibration without almost burning up the coils of the speaker driver. Will post again later with some footage once this is a little more reduced.
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Here's an example.. you can see the two bands appearing (warning loud)
Following that I've carved down more. It's a iterative task - test, measure, adjust, repeat..
One thing is obvious is that currently in the video above is that top is still too think. However I'm progressing down to 236-197 around the edge and I'll trim down the centre a little too.
If you're wondering: https://goreguitars.com.au/design/capture/
Following that I've carved down more. It's a iterative task - test, measure, adjust, repeat..
One thing is obvious is that currently in the video above is that top is still too think. However I'm progressing down to 236-197 around the edge and I'll trim down the centre a little too.
If you're wondering: https://goreguitars.com.au/design/capture/
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Soldato
- Joined
- 21 Jan 2010
- Posts
- 4,067
I've been playing Faure's Pavane tonight- what a beautiful thing it is.
It's not technically difficult, but getting it smooth with the right dynamics is hard. I will try again tomorrow.
It's not technically difficult, but getting it smooth with the right dynamics is hard. I will try again tomorrow.