Thermaltake The Tower 100 - Mod Build

Darren_uk

Darren_uk

Darren_uk

Associate
Joined
25 Jan 2006
Posts
2,057
Location
Kent ,UK
Welcome to my Tower 100 MOD build & Crystal/Diamond Theme


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PC Specs
Case:-----------Thermaltake Tower 100 ITX Case (White Edition)
CPU:----------- Ryzen 5800X
CPU Cooler:----Corsair iCUE H100i Elite CAPELLIX 240mm AIO (White Edition)
Motherboard:--Asrock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/AX Motherboard
GPU:----------- Palit GeForce RTX 3070 Ti GameRock
Memory:-------G.SKILL Trident Z Royal 16gb 3200mhz
PSU:-----------Coolermaster SFX 850W (White Edition)
OS SSD:------- Crucial P5 2TB M.2 CT2000P5SSD8
Storage:------ Crucial CT2000X6SSD9 X6 2TB Portable SSD – Up to 800 MB/s – USB 3.2 – External Solid-State Drive, USB-C
Case Fans:---- Coolmoon ARGB PWM Crystal/Diamond Fans Max CFM 65



Case Feet Mod
To go with the theme of the Build Crystal/Diamond
Diamond feet Look great & offer more height 30mm/3cm + 5mm of soft white Pad,
This Height also serve for a Bottom 120mm Crystal case fan for even better air intake,
Also taking the small bottom case panels off with better access room to undo thumb screws.
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The case holes for the Machine Screws are slight smaller so just forced/Re-thread the hole using the new feet Screws.

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Case 240mm AIO Radiator Mod

The Tower 100 only supports 120mm AIOs, so I modified the right-side panel by taking out the Tamp glass
from the frame, to remove the Glass you will first have to remove the black screws on the inside of frame & filter,
the glass is hold in tight be hard white paste around all sides, Heater/Hair dryer may help, be careful not to bend the metal frame,
If you do not want to reuse the glass panel then breaking it in a control safe way be easy, like in a box.

Measure the rad screw holes by placing the 240mm rad under the frame & use Cordless drill & 3/4mm metal drill bits.

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120mm fan Mounted at the bottom of case
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Side Radiator Panel
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Printed out some art work on glossy white photo paper, Left a line gap covered with clear film so the LEDs shine through.
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ALXAndy said:
You really don't want to be running the AIO like that dude. Lovely build, but you do need to flip the rad. The pump will run dry.
Click to expand...

that the way your told to run then in the instructions, i have mine fitted ports to top and i could hear air all the time. this very forum advised i flipped it and now is all good
 
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I was waiting for this:D
As stated on YT Steve & Jay Ch & show on Arctic webpage user guide, its ok to run tubes bottom or top mounted to the front case,
mounting tubes at top run the risk of some bubbling sound where the air can't get to the bottom & trapped in the space at top of rad.

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It's your PC dude. Problem is AIOs are never completely full and don't have a res full of coolant to keep everything fully submerged. With your pump having to push coolant uphill into the impeller it will never be full. Meaning it will spin air bubbles into the coolant before returning them to the rad. Air bubbles don't dissipate heat they expand. That causes pressure on the rubber which causes faster permeation. Once that happens your coolant levels drop even faster and the next thing you know your AIO sounds like a coffee machine.

And I wouldn't say all of this or any of it had I not lost a H80i within three months. It really happened that fast. Sadly in my use case I had no other option because the case I was using wasn't designed for any other fitment.
 
Darren_uk said:
worse case scenario: to have it mounted on bottom of case with a barbie doll laying on top.
Click to expand...


but it not mounted at the bottom is it....

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