Tips to release tight radiator nut?

[413x]

Trying to release a radiator nut to remove the radiator for replaster

I have easily removed the nut on the thermostat side.

But I cannot loosen the other.
It's requing so much force that it's bending the pipe work and I'm concerned applying any more.

Any ideas? I'm not sure wd40 will do anything.

The culprit is below

 

[Mcnumpty2323]

Blowtorch?
Pretty sure seen a plumber do that in extreme cases

 

[413x]

Blowtorch?
Pretty sure seen a plumber do that in extreme cases

Not even sure I'd want to try it if I had one!

 

[jsmoke]

Need some decent penetrating fluid like PB blaster. As someone said try a camping butane torch also.

 

[Terminal_Boy]

Hold it with the Molegrips and use a FOGB Stilson on the nut?

 

[Maccapacca]

You are using a pair of something something like stilson and a spanner? Should never go alone

 

[Danm54]

Tap the nut a few times with a hammer, normally gets them moving.
And use a spanner not grips, grips can tighten the nut on the threads.

 

[cheesyboy]

Tap the nut a few times with a hammer, normally gets them moving.
And use a spanner not grips, grips can tighten the nut on the threads.

I'm guessing the grips are to try to minimise the torque on the pipework whilst a spanner is used on the bolt.

I hate removing these, always worried I'll split the piping. And always keep second guessing myself as to which aspect it threads from!

 

[adwol48]

some penetraing fluid and one of these to help hold it still https://www.bes.co.uk/radiator-valv...Aw4omEC9txY8oxH7iiwHeFzAfi41yErRoCQgAQAvD_BwE while you uses adjustable pliers or a stilson to undo the nut

 

[Al-Ectrician]

hold water pump pliers over the top and spanner to press against them

 

[Mcnumpty2323]

As said need to use 2 tools
To stop torque or shear force whatever the technical name for it is
Then lock the mole grips on and as said couple of raps on the mole grips with a hammer as far from the nut as possible to get some leverage
Just taps with hammer nothing severe

 

[Danm54]

I'm guessing the grips are to try to minimise the torque on the pipework whilst a spanner is used on the bolt.

I hate removing these, always worried I'll split the piping. And always keep second guessing myself as to which aspect it threads from!

Yes, hold the valve with grips, stilsons, rad wrench or whatever really, use a spanner on the nut.

 

[Orionaut]

Undo the compression nut on the valve to pipe connection, lift radiator and valve off as single unit off and remove valve assembly from radiator away from pipe to minimise risk of damage to pipework.

(You need to remove it to ensure that you can, you might need to do this again some other time)

 

[200sols]

Looks like 10mm microbore, horrible stuff. It can take a lot of bending before you cause damage though. Hold the valve and usre a proper spanner like suggest above, it should move.

Undo the compression nut on the valve to pipe connection, lift radiator and valve off as single unit off and remove valve assembly from radiator away from pipe to minimise risk of damage to pipework.

(You need to remove it to ensure that you can, you might need to do this again some other time)

Only works if the whole system is drained though, presumably he is just closing the rad valves.

 

[pp111]

Sounds stupid but you are doing it the right way? I mean placing the spanner on the nut you move it up to undo it, not down. Looking from the end ( with your head to the right of the valve looking in towards the radiator ) that's clockwise to undo it.

Sorry for being patronising but you never know!

Worst comes to the worst then it is worth fixing this permanently, turn the heating off, drain the system and undo the nut at the bottom of the valve and radiator off complete with the valve in place.

 

[Orionaut]

Only works if the whole system is drained though, presumably he is just closing the rad valves.

Once you are starting to have to struggle with something like this, you should be draining it down anyway-just in case.

Crack that pipe and the system will drain down anyway, whether you want it to or not!

 

[Orionaut]

Sounds stupid but you are doing it the right way? I mean placing the spanner on the nut you move it up to undo it, not down. Looking from the end ( with your head to the right of the valve looking in towards the radiator ) that's clockwise to undo it.

And this. The big nut screws onto the valve, not the radiator. To undo the one on the right hand side, you need to turn it away from you, not towards you like you did on the left hand valve.

 

[200sols]

Once you are starting to have to struggle with something like this, you should be draining it down anyway-just in case.

Crack that pipe and the system will drain down anyway, whether you want it to or not!

Never needed to drain an entire system to remove a rad, its overkill.

I would cap the TRV end though, seen those open before and cause disaster.

 

[Orionaut]

Never needed to drain an entire system to remove a rad, its overkill.

Like I said, if he manages to break that pipe trying to undo the nut and the system is still full of water he is going to be in a world of very wet hurt!

Especially if he then finds that the drain valve is also seized or inaccessible (Or header tank supply valve, or even that main one into the housie. Has any of these been turned off /checked for operation at this stage??)

(Why do "Professionals" almost always put important stuff like drain/stop cocks in utterly inaccessible locations?? )

 

[jpaul]

Sounds stupid but you are doing it the right way? I mean placing the spanner on the nut you move it up to undo it, not down. Looking from the end ( with your head to the right of the valve looking in towards the radiator ) that's clockwise to undo it.

the direction you are applying force on the mole grips needs to be more vertical, rather than horizontal, to counteract undoing the nut , use longer jawed stilisons ?

edit: can put stilsons on the mole grip handles to transfer torques at vertical angle, hoping not to distort mole grips