Toad Ai606 on Peugeot 205Gti problems

Remodot

Remodot

Remodot

Associate
Joined
21 Oct 2024
Posts
6
Location
Dundee
Hi All, I have a 205Gti which has been sat in the garage for over 10 years with the battery disconnected. I managed to get it started after a good check over, new oil, water etc. However the alarm/immobiliser gave me real problems, the engine wouldn't turn over until arming and disarming the alarm many times. This continued while I managed to change the brakes and discs, track rod ends, suspension and many other mechanical parts to get it mot'd. Now that it's mot'd I'm thinking of selling it. However, sods law it now won't turn over, I'm convinced it's the immobiliser but I've no idea where to start. I'm at the stage where I'd be happy to remove it and possibly sell without an alarm or fit a more upto date alarm, but I'm guessing that's not an easy job.
Any Toad Ai606 experts here who can advise me? I'm in Dundee so probably a fair distance from most of you.
 
Hi there, welcome to the forums!

I had one of these alarms back in the mid 2000's. The Ai606 has a battery in each fob and there's one in the siren. However, the Alarm still works without the siren working so you can ignore that battery for the time being meaning it's most likely the battery in the fob thats very low, you can check by pressing a fob button and seeing if the red LED on the fob lights up. It uses a CR2032 battery and, if you've got 2 fobs, only change one first and make sure that works before changing the other, just in case.

If changing the fob battery doesn't work then it'd probably be best to get someone in to rip out the alarm as it's a very old design.
 
Anyone an idea of how big a job ripping out the alarm/immobiliser might be? The cable bundle coming out of the box is large and buried into the dash.
 
It's not as daunting as you may think looking at the number of wire coming out the back of the box.

There will be main power wires, and wires going to the ignition, and if it has central locking a couple of wires going to that, there might be some that goes to the fuel pump.

Best to do is pull the box out and trace each of the wires. I'm theory it should be evident on the car where each of the spliced wires should reconnect to each other.
 
:mad:
Long shot - anyone aware of someone in Dundee/Tayside area who might be able to help? I had a closer look this morning and it doesn't look as simple as finding splices breaking then reconnecting the original wires. The wiring is like a bowl of spaghetti . Very little of it is tape wrapped or tied nearly.
 
Remodot said:
:mad:
Long shot - anyone aware of someone in Dundee/Tayside area who might be able to help? I had a closer look this morning and it doesn't look as simple as finding splices breaking then reconnecting the original wires. The wiring is like a bowl of spaghetti . Very little of it is tape wrapped or tied nearly.
Click to expand...
Might be worth trying an owners club
 
Is the car battery 100% in good condition and fully charged, plus both fob batteries replaced and the siren one?
Is the immobiliser built into the key for the ignition or does it have a separate fob somewhere that you need to swipe under the dash somewhere via a proximity sensor?
The easiest/quickest way might be to fix the alarm, rather than rip it all out.
 
I'd rip it out. One of my cars still has the AI606 in it which I don't have the pin code to so am basically on borrowed time (& have been for years).
I sent the box to Toad themselves years ago whilst it was still supported as they said they'd be able to provide the pin if they had the brain in person, but they couldn't.
So it was basically unsupported even when it was supported lol.

You might find the wiring spaghetti is all the wires that come with the alarm itself (all black from memory?) - trace them back & you should find splices.
 
Tom_ed1987 said:
I'd rip it out. One of my cars still has the AI606 in it which I don't have the pin code to so am basically on borrowed time (& have been for years).
I sent the box to Toad themselves years ago whilst it was still supported as they said they'd be able to provide the pin if they had the brain in person, but they couldn't.
So it was basically unsupported even when it was supported lol.

You might find the wiring spaghetti is all the wires that come with the alarm itself (all black from memory?) - trace them back & you should find splices.
Click to expand...
Is there no way to disable it? Or is that what you need the long for?
 
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Apparently there are some fuses you can check, can't seem to paste the link but should pop up if you search
 
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jaybee said:
Is the car battery 100% in good condition and fully charged, plus both fob batteries replaced and the siren one?
Is the immobiliser built into the key for the ignition or does it have a separate fob somewhere that you need to swipe under the dash somewhere via a proximity sensor?
The easiest/quickest way might be to fix the alarm, rather than rip it all out.
Click to expand...
Hi Jaybee, thanks for the input. The battery is new and is 100% charged, the keyfob light blinks when a button is pressed and the central locking locks or opens, a relay can be heard clicking as well as ignition lights go on. The siren works as if I try and start it when armed the siren sounds. I'm thinking it'll be fifgicikt to find anyone able to fix it as its so old. But we will keep looking. Thanks.
 
well once you start to follow the cables it will start to look better, i know its like a rats nest it was designed to confuse thieves.
at a guess cause memory is getting slow but on the 205 you have a large plastic connector below the steering column from the ignition switch... in practice the cables are quite large but woudnt be the first time a alarm was used to break the starter there so fairly easy to find sometimes if lucky they cut the ignition there as well.
depends how good the installer was but from what you describe....
if your still struggling i will see if i still have the fitting sheets and install instructions in the garage no promises, .
as said previously when you lay it out the wiring will be logical and you will notice the cuts and joins easily just need time and patience.
now vectas they were a bugger to remove, but that a different story :)
 
i had one of these. never again!

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