TT Pump speed control

nicklog · 19 Apr 2019 at 11:12

Hello ove recently bought a Pacific PR22-D5 Reservoir/Pump Combo from thermaltake for my new loop I'm not that happy with my temps and many ppl suggested to check the flow speed.
I had no idea if its controllable somehow.
Anyone got any clue and if it is how to do it?

Thank you

Thekwango · 19 Apr 2019 at 11:16

from the OcUK product description
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ther...l-reservoir-and-pump-combo-rgb-wc-008-tt.html

Equipped with a manual rotary knob, the pump can be manually adjusted in five different speed steps from 1,800 to 4,800 rpm, in addition to the PWM capability.

nicklog · 19 Apr 2019 at 11:26

Thekwango said:
from the OcUK product description
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ther...l-reservoir-and-pump-combo-rgb-wc-008-tt.html

Thanks for your reply mate. It only has 1 cable on it the one with 4pins for power nothing else to be controlled from the computer, it even says its rgb I didn't even know it I never saw it lighting.

nicklog · 19 Apr 2019 at 11:30

Basically I just realized I posted the wrong product.
Pacific PR15-D5 Reservoir/Pump Combo
This one is mine

Thekwango · 19 Apr 2019 at 11:51

nicklog said:
Basically I just realized I posted the wrong product.
Pacific PR15-D5 Reservoir/Pump Combo
This one is mine

from product description for that item

The PR15-D5 is designed with a manual speed control knob to provide five speeds.

so there should be a dial or a knob on it somewhere.

Thekwango · 19 Apr 2019 at 11:54

that said, flow rate shouldn't (or hasn't for me in testing albeit on a different pump) make a huge difference to temps. are you sure you have a good mount/contact on the cpu?

what's the rest of your set up - cpu, gpu, radiators, fan setup?

LuckyBenski · 19 Apr 2019 at 15:17

Thekwango is right, pump / flow speeds don't matter much so long as they're not ridiculously low. It sounds like both the above pumps are a D5 Vario type - a little dial is set into the rear of the pump body (inside the casing that holds it onto the reservoir). It can be adjusted with a screwdriver or fingernail from 1-5. Setting it to 2 or 3 should be fine for a typical loop, and still very quiet.

pastymuncher · 19 Apr 2019 at 20:44

Can you tell us the loop components (block(s), radiator(s), loop order, what components they are cooling (gpu, cpu) and any overclocks with voltages and finally what case they are in and how is the airflow setup please?

nicklog · 22 Apr 2019 at 21:00

Thanks everyone for your replies guys, I'll explain everything, after i posted this message i changed the loop so now it runs with the rad in front of case with 3x 120s as intake, 3x 120 on top as exhaust and 1 140 fan at the back exhaust as well. Havent seen any difference to be honest maybe a degree or two? Nothing at all whatsoever
My pump was at full speed after all, and when i changed the order i set it from 5 (max) to 4, i dont know why i just realised that for some people max speed had worse effect. My case is a thermaltake level 20 GT all tempered glass around (front , both sides, top) I dont know if that makes it worse but i had some research before i buy it and i could see mostly good reviews about airflow and temps. Also, the front fans that are mounted on the radiator are the ones thermaltake gave me with the rad, and i see they can reach at max speed 970 or 980 rpm , could that help or its not that big deal?
Another thing I start to believe is that it might be a problem of the water block because even when the pc is off and cooled down for a long period, when i turn it on it INSTANTLY reaches these 45 -50 on idle even before i log in windows (checked on bios) that seems to me (with my short knowledge) as an issue on block/cpu part even if i've checked it again and again screws and mounts are set correctly, paste is as it should be. i dont know what else to do. and yes some people told me 'its fine just accept it you are gaming on 60-65 its fine, but no i paid so much money i had so much hard work and i want it to work perfectly maybe im wrong for some people but I need to find a solution.
CPU is running on auto speeds (2600x is having an auto-kind of- overclock when it needs and changes speeds and voltage whenever it wants, from 3.7 ghz to 4.1) Right now is set on stable 4.1 and i have the same temps with the auto (maybe 2 or 3 degrees more) no difference.
My parts are from the full liquid cooling kit from thermaltake
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ther...d-tube-water-cooling-kit-360mm-wc-00s-tt.html
- Pacific W4 RGB CPU Water Block: Fit all modern CPU sockets with a 256 Colors LED ring and a universal mounting mechanism that provides error-free, tool-less installation.

- Pacific PR15-D5 Reservoir/Pump Combo: Include a 300ml reservoir and D5 pump to offer the perfect combination for proper water cooling circulation and capacity.

- Pacific R360 Radiator: 240mm slim radiator with high-density fin design (FPI: 14) and aerospace-grade materials for maximum heat dissipation and best cooling capacity.

- Riing 12 RGB High Static Pressure LED Radiator Fan (3 Fans Pack): 120mm PWM fan with compression blades, hydraulic bearing, and a patented 256 colors LED ring.
these are the parts it has,

and here is my loop

PS. Thanks again for everyone that helps me I really appreciate it , i hope we can work something out <3 much love

vapor matt · 23 Apr 2019 at 18:37

Is that glass on top of the PC covering the fans? how does the air escape or pull in, looks like the fans push direct against the glass top? have you tried removing the glass on top to see if temps improve?

nicklog · 23 Apr 2019 at 19:46

Yes mate i've tried it without the top and front glass panels and you can see a slight difference only when you are pushing it hard for example when im gaming heavily for quite a while, and there difference is for a couple degrees. The problem would be solved if i could see less than 35-45 on idle, am I right?