TV upgrade...

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Hi all, don't think I posted here since I last bought a TV that was about 8 years back - last time I moved house!

I have since moved again and the new pad has a media wall (70" cavity) and my 55" is looking a little bit lost, so thinking of upgrading to 65". :rolleyes:

Any recommendations?

I've had this 55" OLED LG since I last moved and honestly it's been amazing, everyone who comes over comments on the picture. I popped into JL today and looked at the LG OLED65G54LW - any thoughts or alternative suggestions welcome.

Cheers! :D
 
If that cavity is 70" in width, you will actually fit a 77" LG Oled in there with no problem. Bigger is always better lol. You may as well fill the full space available :D
I have the 77" G2 and it has been a joy to watch since i've had it from new. The G5 is supposed to be a lot better than my G2, the thing is though, like you i kept my my first Oled for 8 years. Go for it would be my answer.............................but make it a 77" not a 65".
 
:D excellent news @kitfit1 - sorry meant to say the cavity it 70" diagonally...

Have just been looking at the C5 range too and seems considerably cheaper and only 1y old, feel like it might fit the bill?
 
If you're considering the C5, the Panasonic TV-65Z90BEB is worth a look as I believe they use the exact same panel and have almost identical measurements for peak brightness etc.

Unless you're glued to the TV apps for some reason and don't want to use a third party streaming device like a FireStick I'd just go with whichever is cheapest personally (although I believe it runs FireTV anyway).

There's an impressions/data compilation thread here: https://www.avforums.com/threads/2025-panasonic-z90b-oled-tv-discussion-help-experiences.2532197/
 
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Thanks @Gray2233 - will have a look through that thread.

That was going to be my next question @hornetstinger :D any reco's on those also welcome!

I think the Panasonic might actually have better out of the box calibration, but it's partial speculation on my end and is briefly mentioned in that thread.

Many moons ago Panasonic used to pre-calibrate their higher end TV's but I don't think that's necessarily the case anymore.

You've summoned a demon by asking hornet for advice on home theatre too! He'll bludgeon you over the head with AVR and separate speaker suggestions whether you like it or not. :p
 
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Budget, and preference for number of channels/speakers/sub? Example budget system here. I don't know what the JBL AV amp is like


Haha, what can of worms have I opened up here! Cheers for the thoughts all.

Ideally think I’m looking for a standalone soundbar to be honest given the size of the space available. Don’t want wires etc. and no good spot for a sub really (have power behind the TV).

I’m no audiophile but would like it to be significantly better than usual TV sound. No more than a few hundred £. 500 max probably! Cheers :D
 
Haha, what can of worms have I opened up here! Cheers for the thoughts all.

Ideally think I’m looking for a standalone soundbar to be honest given the size of the space available. Don’t want wires etc. and no good spot for a sub really (have power behind the TV).

I’m no audiophile but would like it to be significantly better than usual TV sound. No more than a few hundred £. 500 max probably! Cheers :D

A soundbar will be a upgrade over TV sound...then the upgrade from soundbar to the system above is another upgrade.

When you look at a TV ensure it passes all audio formats, because if it doesn't, then the soundbar will only receive stereo. DTS is sometimes dropped from TV's so if you have a BD movie and go BD player--->TV---->Soundbar, and play a DTS 5.1, DTS HD, or DTS X movie, you will only get PCM two channel stereo.

I'd probably recommend getting a soundbar with enough inputs so instead of using E-ARC you go BD player---->Soundbar--->TV. But if you have a console you'd need to ensure the Soundbar is HDMI 2.1 so it can pass 4K 120hz VRR

My parents have a soundbar it has good sound for the price, but falls short when playing back stereo as the little drivers can only do so much and the sub has to reach a bit higher than I'd like.
 
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