TV Wall Mount

dazzerd

dazzerd

dazzerd

Associate
Joined
14 Mar 2007
Posts
1,671
Location
Winchester
Hi a little help please. I have a 55" tv coming which we want to wall mount. Weight is approx 18kg.

The wall is a party wall seems to be 2cm thick plaster board, then a 4cm cavity and what appears to be at least 4cm of wood (or similar) after that. Then no doubt brick or breez block behind that. Im guessing the depth of the "wood" from the thickness of the screws holding the back box in place. I have took a pic below where I have taken one of the sockets off and the brown stuff is what im calling wood.

IMG_20200203_100054_zpsdztnf9fr.jpg


This appears to spread the full length of the party wall Im assuming its insulating panel or similar rather than wood. Im thinking I can get some 10cm bolts or similar and screw the tv bracket directly into this "wood".

This is a newish house and has been designed with wall mounting tvs in mind so Im assuming this wood is what this is designed for?

Any recommendations of the best approach?
 
Short version:

That reddish-brown stuff is called brick. The giveaways are that it's reddish-brown rather than blonde-coloured, and that there's a metal back box fixed to it.

You've got a brick wall with either a dot-n-dab or a timber-framed finish over the top. Since most builders want to do the quickest and lowest cost job they can, and this is a party wall rather than an exterior wall so there's not same the requirements for insulation, then my money is on dot-n-dab.


Longer version:

I'd be very surprised if the party wall separating you from your next door neighbours is anything other than brick or some kind of block work. It's going to be structural i.e. it holds the building up. Internal walls between rooms within a building unit can be timber stud work, but I've not yet come across a situation when the walls between two adjoining properties are stud.

In all the properties where I've opened up the walls and found timber work, whether they're stud walls (timber frame with plasterboard on either side) or timber cladding over a brick or block work wall and then finished with a skin of plasterboard, the timber itself is always a light-coloured softwood known in the trade as CLS. Follow the link. You'll see that the timber colour isn't dark or reddish.

The fact that you have a metal back box for the socket, and that the surface it is fixed to is a reddish brown would suggest that the wall is constructed from brick.

You've got a brick wall with either a dot-n-dab or a timber-framed finish over the top. Since most builders want to do the quickest and lowest cost job they can, and this is a party wall rather than an exterior wall so there's not same the requirements for insulation, then my money is on dot-n-dab.

Where you have dot-n-dab, there are some points where you'll be drilling through the hardened blobs of adhesive to the brick behind, and other points where there's an air gap so the board itself won't take that much pressure to break it and cause a mess. You need some fixing that are going to span that gap and transfer the weight of the stuff you're fixing to the solid brick behind. Corefix fixings work well.

I would not recommend expanding bolts such as rawlbolts. They put too-much sideways pressure on the brickwork and mortar. You'll either bust a brick open or separate two layers by hitting the mortar gap in between.
 
I guarantee its not brick as there are just screws directly into the surface which if was brick wouldnt be possible would it?. It's also quite soft and I can see no mortar either.

Let me see if I can get the back box off without breaking the plasterboard.
 
It's still not a great picture, but thanks for trying. My best guess is it's something like Ecomerchant fibreblock insulation: https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/steico-therm-system-wood-fibre-board-lime-plaster.html You still need to find out what's behind that because the insulation block itself isn't a suitable surface for fixing in to.



Re: Screwing directly in to brick - Yes, with the right type of screws it is possible. Satellite dish fixings and wall-fixed aerial brackets are regularly installed with a speed fixing that requires no plugs.
 
ok what a pain this is becoming, its the same wall as some of the kitchen units so I may see how these are fixed.
 
Last edited:
If your TV is on a simple hanging bracket and not on some kind of swing-out cantilever job, then you could try Gripit fixings. The plasterboard itself needs to be sound, but that should be the case in a relatively new property where it has stayed dry.
 
Update seems the wood paneling does not run the length of the wall. But for whatever reason is found behind every socket run.

Wall is soild behind so corefix it is.
 
18Kg, my last 55" LCD a 2014 LG was 7-8Kg in the box (marked on it) AFAIR.

Also due to modern TV's being so thin the speakers are either down firing or on rear and if so that is going to be nice for your neighbour on a party wall esp. with a bracket where it will be closer and sound resonate though the metal bracket to wall.

I would advise a soundbar facing outwards.
 
Last edited:
lucid said:
If your TV is on a simple hanging bracket and not on some kind of swing-out cantilever job, then you could try Gripit fixings. The plasterboard itself needs to be sound, but that should be the case in a relatively new property where it has stayed dry.
Click to expand...

I can vouch for gripit fixings. Get the blue ones and they're rated for over 100kgs I believe. We went a bit overboard with ours (expensive TV) with 4 gripits and then 4 long bolt rawl plugs into the breezeblock behind.
 
b00merang69 said:
18Kg, my last 55" LCD a 2014 LG was 7-8Kg in the box (marked on it) AFAIR.

Also due to modern TV's being so thin the speakers are either down firing or on rear and if so that is going to be nice for your neighbour on a party wall esp. with a bracket where it will be closer and sound resonate though the metal bracket to wall.

I would advise a soundbar facing outwards.
Click to expand...

Yes have considered that though to be fair the party wall is pretty thick and the houses are staggered 10ft or so. So part of where the tv is technically on an external well. But have a soundbar anyway!
 
Can also vouch for gripit fixings
I have internal walls
With some sort of metal framework
Not something I am familiar with
At all I guess it's for speed of
Installation compared to
Wooden stud?
For the plasterboard
Barely has a gap to the room
Next door at all unlike wooden studwork
So spring toggles or gravity toggles
Wont go in far enough to drop/open
Those gripit fixings were ideal
In that situation
 
dazzerd said:
Update seems the wood paneling does not run the length of the wall. But for whatever reason is found behind every socket run.

Wall is soild behind so corefix it is.
Click to expand...

it's behind every socket because that's what the sockets are fixed to! My house is like that on all the external brick walls. Wood baton with metal back boxes. Internal walls a re plasterboard with the plastic clip back boxes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom