Type R and VTEC owners

MTF3 is thinner.

Severe is just marketing. 75W-90 SAF-XO is decent stuff as its for trucks and won't have any issues in a car. It has significant ester in their anyway.

Ignore stuff like severe/race/ester etc, look for GL5 as a minimum. FWIW WRC teams use a certain makers products off the shelf for diffs.
 
In a roundabout way I deduce Simon is saying buy this for the diff...? :D

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-737-castrol-syntrax-longlife-75w-90-formerly-saf-xo-75w-90.aspx

I have Castrol Syntrans in my gearbox, the Castrol Syntrans/Syntrax stuff is highly rated in the mazda world as better than what dealers put in, its what most people recommend when changing the fluids, and definitely better than the 'universal' combined GL4/GL4 mobil 1 stuff peddled by mx5parts that somehow manages to make the gearshift worse than with the factory fluid when cold :( :p). If they do a type that meets your specs then its what I'd be using.
 
I think you're right. That's the one castrol recommend if I put my registration in their website.

Halfords stock that, too:cool:
 
Syntrax is a diff oil. Hence GF-5 as it has more sulphur to give better EP protection as no brass syncros to worry about

Syntrans is an MTF and GF-4, lower sulphur to stop the oil attacking copper in the brass syncros.
 
Simon said:
Syntrax is a diff oil. Hence GF-5 as it has more sulphur to give better EP protection as no brass syncros to worry about

Syntrans is an MTF and GF-4, lower sulphur to stop the oil attacking copper in the brass syncros.
Click to expand...

Is the one I've ordered ok? Presumably it is as it's the one castrol recommend if I enter my reg in their website.
 
yeah had planned on doing it in that order just in case I round off the filler plug, leaving me with no oil in my gearbox/diff:p

Having a few problems tracking down all the crush washer part numbers (presume there's 4, one for filler, one for drain?) so I'll just go and speak to Honda tomorrow.

edit: think they're

gearbox
fill 94109-20000
drain 94109-14000

diff
fill 90402-PCZ-003
drain 90401-PCZ-003

£4.80 on washers:p
 
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My driver side rear brake caliper is seized on my S2000. For those who have dealt with this before is there any value in stripping and regressing the slidey bits (technical term) or is that always just a short term fix and it's better just to get a new caliper? Is replacing the caliper DIYable for someone with very little experience?
 
The piston is the killer really - if it's showing any pitting / rust then there's absolutely no point in refurbishing the caliper. If it's fine and your problem is related to the sliders then it'll refurb no problem.

It's a relatively easy Diy, though if i'm honest I usually just replace the caliper as they don't tend to be expensive (no idea on the S2000, on the civic they're circa £100 refurbed). If you're stripping/ refurbishing just make sure you can actually get the bleed nipple open and hose off (without cutting) before you get too far in and that the seal kit you have is the right one.
 
rodenal said:
The piston is the killer really - if it's showing any pitting / rust then there's absolutely no point in refurbishing the caliper. If it's fine and your problem is related to the sliders then it'll refurb no problem.

It's a relatively easy Diy, though if i'm honest I usually just replace the caliper as they don't tend to be expensive (no idea on the S2000, on the civic they're circa £100 refurbed). If you're stripping/ refurbishing just make sure you can actually get the bleed nipple open and hose off (without cutting) before you get too far in and that the seal kit you have is the right one.
Click to expand...

This is the key. If you take apart your caliper and the pistons are dead, you'll be annoyed about having to put back together a ruined caliper (not so bad if the car isn't needed daily I guess). If the caliper seizes a week later after refurb you'll be just as annoyed too. Just buy a replacement caliper.
 
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