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Bit surprised by that but fair enough.
Vince's Repair Thread - (Console Repairs & Mods)
- Thread starter Vince
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@Vince any chance you can help with my rtx 3090 issue? I started a thread in the graphics section but unsure how to link to it here
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I've done 4 so thought I would sit and play a game. 2 with normal sticks, 2 with halls.
No idea on the dead ones. Ill let you know.
Yea, no worries. If it is as simple as a new battery that is the easiest fix. But I did wonder if a chip had blown, or something.
There is a place with reasonable reviews, will try and take it to them this or next week, they said they can look at it for free before doing any work.
Best I can do I think.
I have had a little look I doubt the cap would be the reason that the fuse went... most of the fuses on these cards I see are zero ohm resistors. got some pics of whats gone?
I forgot to reply to this. Yeah they do loads of colours, your colours are a bit more limited if you go for RMB (metal backpaddles), technically you can buy the plastic version and then buy the RMB upgrade seperate, but I like matching paddles.
If you want backpaddles on a normal controller, I 100% recommended the extremerate ones. I was using them to play Astrobot the other day, they are comfy and don't get in the way. I got the RMB ones, but I think I would probably go with the plastic ones next time. I went with metal as I saw a few posts saying the plastic ones break (the paddles are a see-saw action, you push towards controller, other end lifts and prods the button), but only a few so probably just people being heavy handed. Extremerate seem more than happy to replace ribbon cables and paddles anyway. You can always upgrade to rmb as well, the back of the square box the paddles go into just unclips, so you don't have to take the whole controller apart to swap.The rmb ones also add a little weight to the controller, nothing terrible, but you can easily feel the difference between the paddle controller and normal in weight.
I'm thinking of grabbing a broken purple controller as I love purple and don't want to operate on mine while it's fine (no drift there yet) and doing a purple one with clicky buttons and paddles. I have clicky buttons on my cyclone 2 pc controller and didn't realise how much I would miss them.
That will be a winter project though, for when it's dark at 3pm and raining
.That's a real thing
. I thought the dry spot was just normal console argument nonsense. I have mine horizontal, so no worries there, but odd that Sony let you stand it up if that's going to happen.
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Yea, they have some interesting stuff. As you say it would be quite interesting to stack a few of those mods with an expanded battery, TMR/Hall sticks etc. and come up with a custom controller.
That's a real thing
This is a genuine real thing the liquid metal runs down pools at the bottom and leaves the top of the apu dry... its mental.
I dont think it would work the patch goes sort of "corrosiony" not a word but ill show you guys next ps5 I get in. This residue gets left as the area dries out that you need to clean before the liquid metal will flow on that area again.
Fwiw I do have my slim standing up but bought it broken and its been apart twice in the time ive owned it.
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Not much Sony can do about it running, but I'm suprised Sony let you stand it vertical.
Does I cause issues? I would assume it makes it run hotter/hot spot and gets the fan going a bit more.
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Ive also had ones that just straight up overheat and crash because of it.
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Hi Vince, thanks for the reply photos show the capacitor and fuse I want to replace. I'm just trying to find out what the fuse voltage rating might be.
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Hi Vince, thanks for the reply photos show the capacitor and fuse I want to replace. I'm just trying to find out what the fuse voltage rating might be.
Well the fuse looks to be on memory so it wont have a massive rating. looks to be 20a 12v fast blow but honestly if its blown id probably just bridge it for testing. What resistance readings you got either side of that fuse?
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58 ohms I think it's reading across the fuse. Honestly I just saw the bloated capacitor and just hoped that replacing that and the fuse would get it working again. Issue is nowhere I look states voltage ratings for these fuses, just size and amps.
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Hmm I have a feeling its not just the cap and fuse. I mean it could be and you get lucky but id wager something else is at play here as well... That might be because of this 3080 I have here with similar symptoms that is just dead but you might get lucky.
Personally id replace the cap, bridge the fuse and just measure the line again and as long as the line wasnt dead short id just try it. if it works id just stick a 20amp fuse there and be done with it..
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Cheers Vince, I'll swap out the capacitor and see how it goes. Thanks for your time.
This week's toys.. massive box of pads and a few game gears, you don't see many nice boxed ones these days.
The only down side here.. the GG is a US model which means it's center pin pos where the UK model is center pin neg. The GG has no polarity protection so if you put a wrong polarity DC jack in it will smoke from the main 9v transistor on the power board so ideally I'll convert it to a UK model before selling. But then it's less original but it needs a re-shell anyway so it will probably go full mod... Watch this space I guess.
The only down side here.. the GG is a US model which means it's center pin pos where the UK model is center pin neg. The GG has no polarity protection so if you put a wrong polarity DC jack in it will smoke from the main 9v transistor on the power board so ideally I'll convert it to a UK model before selling. But then it's less original but it needs a re-shell anyway so it will probably go full mod... Watch this space I guess.
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Looks like the Xbox 360 Street Fighter IV joypad in that box. Used to have that and the PS3 variant (PS3 was wireless with a dongle). The rubber had started the process of going 'tacky' on the back of mine, or at least felt different from when they were new.
It is in fact a capcom xbox pad. with some streetfighter stuff happening.