water cooling advice on a kandalf lcs any one ??

Mr. May

Mr. May

Mr. May

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Hi i have a TT Kandalf lcs and it is supplied with its own water cooling this is my 1st water cooling project and have a few questions ...

1st one is what is the outer diamiter of the tubing i know the ID size is 3/8 but no idea on the outside is cant find any info on it any where all i knwo is it could either be 1/2 or 5/8 as i want too either change the tubing too gloss black or fit some uv blue anti-kink coils and would like them to be the right size :confused:


2nd is how it layed out the instruction that came with my system says too put it as

(Pump then its connected to the Reservoir)-(CPU block)-(rad)-(Reservoir)

i was thinking if it would be better going

(Pump)-(Rad)-(CPU block)-(Reservoir which is connected to the Pump)

as this shoul make sure the coldest water is gettin to the cpu 1st with the most preassure please correct me if iam wrong

3rd is it worth keeping the cpu block it came with ? and if so what would be a good replacement ?

4th and last is if i changed the cpu block could i swap fittings over as i think these look a lot better than a tie wrap around a barb

Thanks in advance Mr. May
 
The flow order is always Res -> Pump (pump well fed) -> CPU block -> Rad (hotter water cools more efficiently) -> Resorvoir.
 
In reality it doesn't really matter where you put the radiator, the water temperature will quickly reach an equilibrium with the environment such that the actual temperature drop across the rad is not actually that great. If there are any efficiency gains to be made by making sure the rad inlet water is at the hottest in the loop my guess is the effect on the equilibrium temperature will be insignificant. The only really benficial factor to consider in loop order is to just position components such that minimal tube is used and minimal bends are present, with the proviso that the pump is after the res for easy priming. You will gain far more from minimizing pressure losses that way.
 
thanks for the advice i dont know how to upload pictures on to here :(and there wouldnt be much to look at as my mobo has been sent away to be rma'ed :( its been gone 7 weeks now does any1 know the tube sizes as i would like 2 order some more stuff in the next coulpe of days :D

Thanks Mr. May
 
If you are wanting to replace your tube, and you know for sure that all your current fittings are 3/8", then it doesn't matter whether you get 1/2" or 5/8" OD tubing, as long as the I/D is 3/8", it will still fit your barbs. The only thing you *may* have to throw away are your hose clamps, depending on what type they are, I doubt you would have to though as pretty much all common hose clamps are removable and adjustable. Anyway you mention zip ties so these would have to come off anyway, not really sure what you mean by point 4 though tbh. Sounds like you don't currently have coils, so just get the size to fit whatever new tube you buy. I personally use 3/8" ID 1/2" OD Feser UV coloured tube. It is nice and flexible and easy to work with.
 
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Dr Who said:
The flow order is always Res -> Pump (pump well fed) -> CPU block -> Rad (hotter water cools more efficiently) -> Resorvoir.
Click to expand...

Makes slightly more sense to have the radiator directly after the pump to dissipate the heat from the pump before going to the cpu block, but since the temperature difference in the average loop is less than 1c it doesn't make much difference either way. Whatever's easiest to route, with the pump after the reservoir is proobably the best advice.
 
well the fittings the TT system uses is a comprasion fitting (i think thats what there called) which has got a nut bit which fits over the tube then you insert the tube on to the bard and tighten the nut down which i thought was a good idea

The tube fits perfectly into the nut and is very tight over the barb i know its 3/8 ID but it does not say what the OD is because ive read it could either be 5/8 or 1/2, i either want to change the tubing OR get some coils

But if i get 5/8 OD coils and turns out its 1/2 it will be to big and like wise buying 1/2 coil and it ends up being 5/8 it will be to small and if i change the tube and get the wrong size like the feser stuff it could end up being too small on the OD for it to clamp down properly and end up with a leak :(

and the 4th question is if i change the standard water cooling block willcan i put the comprasion fittings off my old one on to which ever new one i get isted of the bards

Thanks in adavnce Mr. May

ps sorry for not making it very clear 1st time round lol
 
Yea its really being lazy when u ask someone the outer diameter of ur pipes when it would take u 5 seconds just to get a tape measure. Also i would definately change my cpu block as the one that comes with ur case is terrible. I would suggest an EK supreme as it will fit onto anything and is quite easy to fit.
 
its been stored been stored for a good few months and has gone a kinda oval shape and couldnt get a measurement off it :( iam looking at a D-tek V2 atm which is going cheap and ive heard good things about them correct me if iam wrong
 
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thank you never thought of that lol :eek: its 1/2 so could get a direct replacment with the feser tubing :D

opinions black tubes with uv blue coils or green tubes with black coils ? bare in mine my case is sparyed black inside with blue led fans and cathodes :)

are all the TT water blocks crap because a saw a nice one called the UFO looks good and has got heat pipes inside the block
 
Don't get thermaltake. Is it this block - the UFO Aqua RX series R2? http://www.thermaltake.com/product/Liguid/Upgrade/cl-w0092/cl-w0092.asp

If so it looks extremely restrictive - thermaltake seem to have had the bright idea of pumping water at the fins rather than parallel to them. From there the water has to get through all of them by a spiral of multiple bends to get to the second chamber, do the same again and then get pumped out.... It's like they run the company with a policy of positive discrimination against non-retards. Besides which, it's just as expensive as much much better blocks, and you probably have a weak thermaltake pump in that thermaltake case... You made the mistake of getting thermaltake water-cooling stuff before - it would be silly to do it again!
 
the pump is 500L per hour which is one off the better ones i thought and the rad has copper pipes going up and down it which is better than the aluminum ones correct me if iam wrong i am new too all this water cooling stuff and that was the one i was looking at was just thinking bigger is better :P

Thanks Mr. May
 
500lph is not much but pressure (head) is almost more important than the (free) flowrate. The 500lph refers to water pumped in and out when there is nothing attached to the pump (not even some tubing). How it does when pumping through a block, tubing and a radiator is another matter altogether.

As for the radiator, it's a very old design. Copper tube bent into loops surrounded with aluminium vanes is not anywhere as efficient as modern rads. Try looking at some pics of modern rads.
 
arh thanks i new it wasnt going to be great just mainly bought the case for the looks the water cooling was a extra but seeing as it there iam gonna do it as my board is still being RMA'ed into it seventh week now :mad: once ive got it done ill get some piccys up and benchies to see how it performs :D thanks for your advice .....

i have one more problem though which i cant get a straigh answer for as water cooling 4 my board will be over £100 all said and done and is impossible because of sli i want to put a 40 mm fan infront of my SB and 60 mm fan on my NB both will be resting on top of my gfx cards i was just wondering if this would damage them in anyway ?

thanks in advance Mr. May
 
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