water tube flat

conoflex

conoflex

conoflex

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Joined
18 Oct 2002
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The tube in these pics is starting to flatten at the top and bottom water is still flowing ok
Just wondering to use kink coil on it or replace the tube or what ?
ideas on a postcard to............:D

P1010016a.jpg


P1010015a.jpg
 
Tubes kinking is bad news it'll ruin your flow rates, get some anti kink braid on there asap :) i'd also replace the tube too :)
 
Not surprised, that tube shouldnt be going into the top like that, there is an air trap at the top of the res causing the problem. The entire loop should be sealed by water ideally.
 
Biffa said:
Not surprised, that tube shouldnt be going into the top like that, there is an air trap at the top of the res causing the problem. The entire loop should be sealed by water ideally.
Click to expand...

Well previous systems had no problems and was designed by Tom H owner of ChilledPC
If you look at the second picture there is no airlock at top of res it is all water few bubbles tho and it's also old pic taken as the rig was run for first time.
 
The problem with having the res like that is that any air left in the loop will always rise into the rad when ever you switch the pc off. This can either end up being permanently stuck inthe rad, sort of best case, or continously circulated when the loop is running, worst case. Having the res like this requires completely bleeding the loop of ALL air, which is only possible through the fill port on the res in your case, it must have been a job to do this I imagine. Those little bubbles you had when you first started will now very likely be in your rad somewhere, potentially reducing its performance.

EDIT: *Unless* you are using one of the new advanced EK res's which have a tube inside them so that you can use the top inlet like that and still have a normal air bubble in the res. With this that loop style becomes completely viable.

Also I am not sure what happens to a loop which is initally completely full of water when some of the water inevitably evapourates through the tubing. In my loop the water level in my res drops over time, my theory is that the air bubble in the res expands to accomodate the loss of water. In a completely full loop there is no air bubble so any volume loss must instead be taken up by tubes contracting. That's my theory anyway.
 
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For my own piece of mind I would use a slightly longer tube and feed into the second inlet at the bottom of the res.
 
I would like to how how you did go about bleeding this loop as with the rad mounted in the top with the fittings pointing downwards you really need to be turning the pc upside down to get all the air out of the rad, and with that res style this would have been tricky. I would hazard a guess that if you didn't do this you probably currently have quite a large amount of stagnant air sitting in your rad, along with those little bubbles.

You can easiley test for this though. Since you think you have a loop with no air in it you could turn your PC upside down now and if there is no air nothing will come out of the rad and it won't affect the loop. But if there is air in there it will circulate round.
 
Ok thanks taken all your critque on board, So can you give me a loop design that would be better suited for my set up then please (with diagrams/pic) and I will do it and post pics etc back here.
Although working on computers since 1985 This is my first water build and thought that Tom from ChilledPC would know what he was on about by advising me to do it this way.

Bubo " EDIT: *Unless* you are using one of the new advanced EK res's which have a tube inside them so that you can use the top inlet like that and still have a normal air bubble in the res. With this that loop style becomes completely viable."
the rad is the latest EK one that came with the kit I won, but I don't know if it's the one you mean.
 
I did fill it to the top after these pics were taken, in fact when its off I can undo blanking plug on top of res and it's still full up.
Do you think the loop is set up wrong then ?
Cos i'm going to strip it down anyway to change tubing from primochill to something better if there is something better ?
 
Bubo said:
If the res came with a solid length of tube which inserts into the top inlet like this http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-089-EK&groupid=962&catid=1551&subcat= then you are OK. Although I would still make sure you have fully bleed the loop by at least laying the case on its side, as bleeding a top rad with the barbs pointing downwards usually requires this in almost all circumstances.
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The way I did it was fill res run pump 2 secs stop refill and keep doing this till couldn't get anymore water in then rocked it back an for and run pump and refilled again till full.

Did it like this as was told thats how everyone does it !
Right yes the res did come with that, So I have to put that in the res then ?
If my temps are ok surely it does not matter if has a smallamount of air in it ?
 
That tube goes in the res from the top fitting and hangs down part way into the res and basically below the water lvl, this means that any air still in the system will eventually get pumped down that tube into the res and float up into the top of the res.
Edit: Bad drawing but it gives u the basic idea.
resdb.png
 
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Krony said:
That tube goes in the res from the top fitting and hangs down part way into the res and basically below the water lvl, this means that any air still in the system will eventually get pumped down that tube into the res and float up into the top of the res.
Edit: Bad drawing but it gives u the basic idea.
resdb.png
Click to expand...

Cheers Krony, I will be doing that asap dunno how I missed this in the first place ! still learning everyday hehe!
 
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