Watercool d5-dualtop installation (o-rings)

[pre]

Does anyone else have this d5 dualtop installed on a mora3 or elsewhere?

It comes with 2 o-rings but all the few videos I've seen the people never install them and just clamp the d5s with the steel plate.

I tried but I can't for the life of me work out how they are meant to fit in the acetal housing with the o-ring stretched around the each pump like in a normal d5 top. It doesn't seem to be leaking without but bleeding is taking a huge amount of time so I'm not sure if air is being pulled in.

 

[pre]

Sounds strange mate. You would imagine the o-rings are included for a reason. Maybe message watercool

Yeah I have but wondered if anyone else had experience since it's a w/e.

 

[pre]

The o-ring does not stretch, its sandwiched between the pump top and pump. The steel plate you screw on ensures a seal.

edit: had a MORA3 with the daul pump for nearly a year now.

So this isn't my image but if I just place the supplied o-rings into the recess in red here:

Spoiler

and sit the d5s on top and place the steel plate on top of the metal bevel of the d5:

Spoiler

is raised like 2-3mm above the level so that the steel plate no longer sits flat like this:

Spoiler

Comparing the supplied o-rings with other ones I got with other tops they seem to be same size/thickness. When I don't use the o-rings the bevels on the d5s sit <0.5mm above level on the acetal part so the plate sits almost flat with a tiny gap. So I can't for life of me figure out how the o-rings are meant to be compressed that much that the person here is able to insert the o-rings and secure the plate back to level so there's no significant gap.

 

[pre]

The thing is I was using this top with other d5s in an internal loop with no problems and I'm sure I didn't use any o-rings because the supplied ones were still in the cardboard box. I only noticed them when installing a D5 NEXT - the reason why I want to solve this oring problem is that it seems to be taking an age to bleed air out in a mora closed loop without any blocks attached so I suspect that there is some air being pulled into the pump top eventhough there is no leak and the water level isn't going down. Normally overnight after 8-12hrs most of the "popping" sounds from air bubbles and that doesn't seem to be the case today even with one pump(s) running as low as 2500rpm.

 

[pre]

just checked mine mate and the plate is flush. Are you not able to screw the plate down with the o-rings installed

Yep the o-rings raise the pumps up so much that I have to apply some pressure just to get a first m4 bolt to begin threading and even then there would be a 2-3mm gap all around if I tried to screw in all the bolts. This video:

The COOLEST radiator you never heard of!

My radiator is bigger than yours.. no really its MASSIVE... In this video we use the Heat Killer Mo-RA3 420 Pro Stainless Steel Radiator! We build the comple...

youtu.be

shows someone basically not using o-rings and this is how the d5s sit for me without them.

 

[pre]

Turn on 8K and pause at 2:40 in that video above. He is using O-rings. Doesn't help they're both black making it difficult to see but absolutely do not run this without o-rings.

Spoiler

Damn - finally a use for 8K if someone asked me. Probably wouldn't have been able to see it with my eyesight though!

That's a concern then I'm not sure what I'm missing because if when I just place the o-rings in that recess theres no seeming way for me to screw the plate down. I'll have to dismantle it again but pretty sure when I insert the o-rings there isn't a 2mm+ gap to the next "spiral" where d5 bevel sits like there is there.

 

[pre]

Yep, I definitely tried just "sitting" the o-ring on top that part of d5. I'm pretty sure when I did this I didn't have this much clearance when I place the o-rings on that tier of the spiral:

Spoiler

I'll take some screenshots once I do but thanks for confirmation and free eye test!

 

[pre]

Thanks for all the input @momo56. I took it apart only to find - that o-rings ... were installed already.

I must have used other o-rings from my original d5s instead but because the spiral has a recess for the o-rings themselves I didn't notice they were there and was putting another set of o-rings on top. That'll teach me to turn on the lights in the future.

Anyway now I need to solve the mystery as to why it's so hard to fully bleed without a reservoir...

 

[pre]

What's the reason for not using a reservoir ? It's pretty much impossible to fully bleed, even closed loop AIOs have air bubbles.

Historically used a t or q-block fitting and had a qdc/fillport instead. I don't have a specific reason with the mo-ra3 anymore but I just don't have one at the moment.

 

[pre]

You won't be able to bleed it without a res. There's nowhere for the air to settle other than within your rad and blocks

This is a temp loop without blocks (pump + mora) attached since I'm waiting for a few replacement fittings. As mentioned above there is a t at the top of the mora3 as an inlet which should be where the air escapes so I was trying to bleed out the majority of air on the radiator side then just hook up to the internals via QDCs after filling up that side later

The best you can do is introduce a t in the loop (if you haven't already got one for filling) as close to the top as possible and let the air settle there through running it. Depending on pump speed and restriction though, it will be pretty tough to get all the air out in a reasonable amount of time.

That's what I have done. Typically on my normal 560mm rad it's about 12-24hrs before the pump significantly quiets down to a hum without regular periodic air bubble "popping" - the mora didn't seem to be improving much even at 2.5krpm or 4k rpm.

Takes about 1400ml of liquid to fill a mo-ra 420 and they're pretty restrictive. I found it a bit of a slog filling and bleeding my loop with a single D5 running at 100%. Just the external rad and a cpu and gpu block.

Yep - I opened a 5l can of DP ultra as a change and it's about 1/3 used which should be close to 1.5l - the fillport with extra fluid where larger air bubbles was escaping wasn't going down much anymore so pretty sure it was full.