Watercooled and running hotter

Chonker

Chonker

Chonker

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19 Nov 2010
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13
Further to my previous thread here http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18209240 about temp problems with the H50 I decided to go with a full on water-cooling set up. I've just powered up for the first time and the first time around it didn't stay on long before powering down, I think it hit it's thermal cutoff. It then reset it's bios settings and booted again and stayed going.

I'm in windows now and the temps at idle are 64, 60, 61, 62 which is higher than they were before and the pwm fan on the motherboard cpu header is going like the clappers. Thing is the CPU block doesn't feel hot. I've just got a single loop which goes:

XSPC reservoir with Liang D5 pump > XSPC RX420 dual radiator (mounted at top of case) > Heatkiller V3 > back to reservoir.

From what I read before I ordered my stuff this seemed plenty to cool just my CPU. Not sure what to do next, help!
 
Make sure the heatkiller is mounted correctly. BEcause of the size of the block it can 'sit' on the capacitors that surround the cpu socket preventing good contact with the CPU itself.
 
wow thanks guys, quick response and bang on the money. It was sitting on the row of caps (I'd actually marked a couple where i'd tightened it on 'em), I bent them very slightly out of the way and back together and temps around 40 degrees now :)

The other question I had was my coolant's gone all foamy from my attempts to bleed the air out of the rad, will this sort itself over time?
 
How do you mean 'foamy'? Are we talking froth on a pint of beer or are we taking the little bubbles that come up from the bottom of a pint? If it's the latter then you are fine and they will sort themselves out over time.
 
definitely more like the head on a pint. I cleaned the rad and hoses and stuff out with deionised water, then built the loop outside of the case with fresh deionised water and ran it for a couple of hours.

Then I fit it in the case, drained the water out and put in the coolant. Feser One, (when I bought it I thought it was an additive to be diluted but it's in there 'neat')

Also I just did a CFD solution run at temps only got up to 60C with the fans all turned all the way down! :cool:
 
5202770390_29db6403f9_b.jpg
 
i have seen that on a firends pc, he didnt bother flushing his rads and his liquid ended up like that after he did the tilt thing to get the air out
 
Yea it's got ethylene glycol in. I'll give it a few days and see if it improves otherwise I guess I'll replace it, this coolant wasn't what I was expecting anyway and i have loads of deionised water left because i was thinking i'd run it.

With running just water, do I need both a corrosion inhibitor and a biocide or can somebody recommend a good product that does both?
 
i've see cases where ethylene glycol causes this frothing if there is too much of it in the solution. although i cannot say for sure if it is the substance causing the frothing or just a terrible coincidence between all the fluids that contain it. I have never seen such thing happen in distilled or deionised water with a couple of drops of zerex per litre for example. though i have seen zerex form spider webs inside distilled water bottle :o
anyhow, best bet is to flush that loop and give it a good rinsing with warm water. inspect the blocks inside in case residue has formed on their pins.
flush the pump with slightly warm water but not hot like the rest of the components.
refill with distilled water and use a couple of drops of algae killer per litre. otherwise get a silver coil.

by the way, when i say hot water, i don't mean boiling hot. just hot enough so you can see the vapours coming out. some people also recommend a white vinegar/water solution. i've never used it so i can't comment.
if you have different metals in your loop then you will need an anticorrosive agent. again a few drops per litre but i can't comment much on the matter since i always used copper in my loop.
 
Chonker said:
Yea it's got ethylene glycol in. I'll give it a few days and see if it improves otherwise I guess I'll replace it, this coolant wasn't what I was expecting anyway and i have loads of deionised water left because i was thinking i'd run it.

With running just water, do I need both a corrosion inhibitor and a biocide or can somebody recommend a good product that does both?
Click to expand...

Im going with just deionised and a silver coil this time round, might put half a bottle of some clear coolant in it aswell, i would never use a coloured coolant again after a couple of nightmares (with coolant and a colour bomb)
 
Ok thanks again for coming up trumps guys, I have a silver kill-coil hopefully in the post to me for tomorrow so will dissasemble, wash all this blue crap out and start again :rolleyes:
 
You only need a corrosion inhibitor if your parts contain dissimilar metals, e.g. copper and aluminium. Copper and brass and nickel would be fine.
 
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