Watercooling Bits...

RoEy · 15 May 2013 at 19:06

Hi all,

I'll be watercooling my system next weekend and I need to get a few bits before then. I have the heatkiller 7970 ni bi block ready. I have loads of fat boy barbs but need some new Orings. I've seen some bitspower orings that are for g 1/4 threads but not sure if they'll be OK or not. I'm going to be using the XSPC high flex 7/16 tubing as it's what I've used in the past and works a treat with the fat boys. What I'm unsure about is what fluid to use. Last loop had some feser bi-distilled water, silver kill coil and some corrosion blocker.

I'm looking at the Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O to go with the kill coil I have and I need some corrosion blocker but can't seem to find any. I wouldn't mind setting up a small loop before hand to flush the system as it was hooked up for 3 years and I don't want to pull my rad out and use boiling water so wondered if there was anything I could use in a loop to clean it for a day.

Any advice would be great,

RoEy

RoEy · 16 May 2013 at 09:42

Watercooling gurus?

rjk · 16 May 2013 at 10:20

bitspower orings will fit any G1/4 barbs.

xspc tubing is great. primochill is coming in a few days and is much better

you either used distilled or coil or corrosion blocker. using all at once is not how you do it.

mayhems ultra pure is fine. maybe put a coil in if you want to but for how cheap it is, just drain and refill pure water every few months.

flush your rad properly or the whole excersise is pointless

flush your rad with warm water.

then run DI water though it for a while.

you dont need to do anything else.

ubersonic · 16 May 2013 at 10:38

rjkoneill said:
you either used distilled or coil or corrosion blocker. using all at once is not how you do it.

Using all three in his old loop wasn't really incorrect, just not an optimum way to do it, the coil would have stopped organic build up and the blocker would have prevented mixed metals (inc the coil) from reacting. But yeah its obviously not how it *should* be done as just using a decent coolant like mayhems with corrosion inhibitor built in will make the coil redundant and using distilled/de-ionized water in the first place helps avoid bacteria issues.

RoEy · 16 May 2013 at 22:03

rjkoneill said:
bitspower orings will fit any G1/4 barbs.

xspc tubing is great. primochill is coming in a few days and is much better

you either used distilled or coil or corrosion blocker. using all at once is not how you do it.

mayhems ultra pure is fine. maybe put a coil in if you want to but for how cheap it is, just drain and refill pure water every few months.

flush your rad properly or the whole excersise is pointless

flush your rad with warm water.

then run DI water though it for a while.

you dont need to do anything else.

Thanks for your response.

Any idea when these will be back in stock?

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-115-BP

What makes primochill tubing much better? In my last loop, which I had running for 3 years I used Bi-distilled water, corrosion blocker and coil and the water came out as good as the day it went in pretty much. I don't really want the hassle of draining and filling it every few months. I don't really want to pull my rad out as its on blocks with no more nails tape so will it be ok setting a loop up with warm water going through the pump too?

RoEy · 17 May 2013 at 23:10

rjkoneill?

RoEy · 21 May 2013 at 16:50

Ok I've managed to find some orings from a competitor as the bitspower ones on the OCUK website have never been in stock and the guy on the phone had absolutely no idea if they ever would be. I just hope they'll be of a similar quality to the originals that were on the fat boys. I'm looking at the mayhems ultra pure fluid and also the Feser Aqua Cooling Fluid (bi-distilled) Ultra Pure Water which I had before. I've bought some corrosion blocker which is the feser base stuff and I used that last time. Would it be ok adding that to the mayhems ultra pure water? I really don't like the thought of not adding corrosion blocker. With setting a loop up so flush the system, can I add boiled water that has been left to cool a little so its still warm to a loop for flushing purposes? Or may it damage my pump if it's too hot? I just don't want to pull my rad out for the sake of putting boiling water in but if I have to I will.

In addition, as I've been told that its not the best water by adding water, coil and corrosion blocker is this why my gpu block quickly discolored?

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18132920&highlight=roey

It was smooth and now rough but is this just normal discoloration on nickel plated blocks?

Finally, which thermal paste should I go with for my cpu and gpu? I used Artic Cooling MX 2 last time and was fine. Is 4 any better? I've used 3 before but found it to be awful to spread.

RoEy

Divx · 21 May 2013 at 19:08

i think i read that you shouldn't use the feser corrosion blocker with mayhems coolants.
if you're after clear liquid, then mayhems x1 clear is perfect. it contains all the additives you need and you can add colour to it if you wish. definately a lot less hassle than pure water.

RoEy · 21 May 2013 at 19:23

Ok I think I'll go with feser one bi distilled water then like last time as I have a new bottle of feser corrosion and I'll use the kill coil too. Never did me any harm last time and had loop for 3 years. Any ideas about my questions with regards to flushing and thermal paste?

Divx · 21 May 2013 at 19:32

mx 4 will be fine for both cpu and gpu, there are certainly some benchmarks out there if you're interested, but i wouldn't say its that important. its non conductive too which is always good.
i cant comment on flushing.

deFiniLoGy · 21 May 2013 at 20:15

MX-4 are good value

RoEy · 22 May 2013 at 12:42

Ok I'll go with the MX-4. Hopefully it's a lot better at spreading than 3. Think I might just put some luke warm water in a loop for pump / rad/ res and blocks and let it flush for a while. Really don't want to pull rad / res and pump out to clean seperately.