Watercooling help...!!! :)

Zanussi

Zanussi

Zanussi

Associate
Joined
18 Jan 2009
Posts
11
Location
Greece, Athens
Hi i'm trying to build a water cooling system for my friend and i want
your suggestion and your help. :) I want 2 blocks one for Cpu and one for Gpu. The pc has a Q9550 and a Sapphire 4870 and the case is Thermaltake Armor plus. Can a double radiator do the work.? And can a pump with 500l\h handle 2 blocks.?

Thnks a lot.!! :D
 
The cooling performance of the radiator largely depends on the fans not the radiator. If you use a crappy 120.2 but use 200cfm deltas then it will cool whatever you want but if you use an old HE120.2 with 7v Yate Loons then no, it won't.

As for the pump, it again depends. A 500lph pump which has 1 inch of head won't cool a damn thing as it won't move water through the system. Flowrate means nothing without pressure.

As for blocks, it massively depends on your budget! There's no point me recommending a full-cover block which costs £60-£70 if your total budget is fourpence.

Sorry to fail to answer a single question but your questions are woefully vague.
 
My suggestion

Swiftech GTZ CPU Block
EK-FC4870 GPU Block
Laing DDC 18w Pump
XSPC Res Top
Thermochill PA120.2 Rad
Yate Loon 120mm fans
7/16 tubing

Thermaltake armor is easy for watercooling.

This is my server. Took me about 15mins to setup the watercooling out of spare bits.

2863938820_6d07e1346a.jpg
 
Thanks for replying.!

I was thinking of buying this :

Swiftech Waterblock CPU Apogee GT
EK Waterblocks EK-FC4870 CF VGA Waterblock
Black Ice Radiator GTS 240 With 2x Ac Ryan (77,7 cfm at 2000rpm)
now should a pump like this DANGERDEN DD-CPX1 12V PUMPE handle this stuff..?

I'd rather go to swiftech pump with 1200l\h (wich i have on my pc ) :P but will increase the price....
 
Apogee GT is a fine but old block. For the price it's not bad but the OCZ block isn't much more and much newer.
EK make great gpu block, no worries there
Black Ice GTS rads are OK but the Swiftech ones are better value
The DD-DB1 pump (same pump, just a different name) is a nice little pump and cheap but designed for low-restriction loops. Check the restriction of the blocks you want, to ensure you are getting a pump that will be able to handle the loop.
 
Everything looks good with the specs, EK Supreme block is also a good one.

Only thing I would say is dont get a plex-top res for these pumps. They are a pain to bleed the air unless you mod them or put in a baffle. Much easier to get a mirco res from swiftech or EK to do the job.
 
I know you had bleeding difficulties with a XSPC plex-top res but maybe it was down to the bleeding method used rather than the bleeding design?
 
Oh Mike, lets not go here again!

LOTS of people have moaned about bleeding these res.
MOST people have to put something in them, like rest a rear coverplate under the tube to divert the water and bubbles away from the inlet port to give the air time to rise rather than be sucked straight back into the inlet.

Much easier to just get a normal plexi top to increase the pumps power and a seperate res.

Also, if the bleeding design was good enough, no one would have bleeding problems. And that sounds how it is meant!!!

I Know you like these tops but I dont. Let the user decide. I am just giving him MY observations.
 
But what would we find to talk about if we didn't argue about this! (And my post was supposed to be funny! Like the dam beavers)

You know, it's a design problem of these stupid super powerful pumps in many ways. When filling the loop, it's much easier if the pump was running at say 1 litre per minute max in order to be able to fill the res at the same speed as the pump is pushing the water.

I'm a firm believer in not turning the pump on until I've done the whole "moving the case around all over the place" to get as much water in as possible before turning on the pump. And once the pump is on, pinching the tubing to slow the flow. This really helps with bleeding bubbles out.
 
I'm sure that comparison review of after-market pump showed the res-top to be the best in terms of flow, wasn't it? So, it's doesn't bleed well (although easily resolved) but once bled produces great results.
 
I might be wrong mike, but was it not the change in top that yeilded the better flow rates?
Or did the addition of the res also increase the flow rates over top change also?

I know, or thought I knew, that changing the top having flow in via the top central pot and out the front was the best setup, but did not think that the res on top of that actually helped. In fact I thought it droped performance slightly?

Check these out
http://virtualrain.blogspot.com/2006/09/water-pump-ddc-ultra.html
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews.php?/cases_cooling/laing_ddc1t_and_ddc1_ultra_tops_shootout/1
They are both forum sites, but if contravene this forum rules please either delete or let me know and I will!
 
PhunkyPhish, you're right. I just checked the original review on Martins Liquid Labs and the non-res version of the XSPC top was a teensiest bit better than the one with the res. But I think it's easier to plumb in a pump/res than a pump and a res.
 
Thanks all for replying..! :D I bought some stuff and i'm realy pleased..!!

D-TEK Fuzion V2 CPU
Black Ice Radiator GTS 240 (cause i didn't found a Swiftech rad in my country) :(
A Swiftech MCP655 pump with 1200 l\h
And a EK Waterblocks EK-FC4870 CF
 
Ah, is that an integral pump inside the res? EDIT - Please ignore this!

So what did you do about a res? Or did you not even fit one and went for a T-Line?!!
 
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