Watercooling: Reservoir help

Clown · 16 Apr 2006 at 18:08

I've got my Swiftech Storm block. A Silverprop Fusion HL is on the way. I'll be using 7/16" tubing with the warm water trick, with 1/2" ID barbs. This will be powered by an Eheim 1250 and the radiator will be some random 120.2 one I bought a long time ago.

Would the XSPC reservoir work well enough as a normal reservoir or is there a better non-bay one that I should use? I don't want to use a T-line as they look a bit messy.

MikeTimbers · 16 Apr 2006 at 19:33

The Criticool Waterplant is pretty good.

Clown · 17 Apr 2006 at 11:46

ARGH. I don't want to make a new thread for a crappy little question - How do I open those little black hose clamps

MikeTimbers · 17 Apr 2006 at 12:12

I only used them once and took them off again. I did it by twisting the two ends in opposite directions so that they slid out sideways from each other. And then never used them again. Two words: jubilee clips.

matt100 · 17 Apr 2006 at 12:15

MikeTimbers said:
Two words: jubilee clips.

amen

Clown · 17 Apr 2006 at 12:47

The ones I really liked were the ones that came with the Zalman Reserator. Open them with pliers, slip them over the barb and release. Nice and easy

pastymuncher · 17 Apr 2006 at 13:40

That reservoir is excellent. I have just got the blue one. It is exceptionally well made although fairly heavy. It will however knock an extra few degrees off your temps as it works like a passive radiator. Check out this review here . Looks good too both with and without the supplied led fitted.

R B Customs · 17 Apr 2006 at 17:31

erm.. how do you fill it up ? thought thwe whole point of Tlines / res' was for filling :S

samcat · 17 Apr 2006 at 17:49

As much as I like that res its made of aluminium... Dont want to mix that with copper, even though you should be using an additive that prevents galvanic corrosion its one extra thing to worry about...

If they made it out of copper it would be a different matter, then it would be a question of how to keep it shiny!

Cya,
Sam C

pastymuncher · 17 Apr 2006 at 19:56

You fill it by unscrewing the top of course! If you read the review i posted you would have seen that.

If you use an additive then there should be no corrosion anyway. You are still combining multiple types of metal anyway. The rad will be made of copper and steel. The fittings are usually chrome plated brass or just brass unless of course you use nylon ones. The block will be in most cases copper sometimes aluminium or even both. The pump will have steel parts in it as well. It's no good worrying about mixing different metals. Just make sure you use a good additive.

A.N.Other · 17 Apr 2006 at 20:38

That review at xtremecomputing is very interesting. It gives some amazing temp results when left on with the normal rad - 8C!!

I'm looking to go over to water cooling pretty soon and that does look nice

. If you do get it, tell us how it goes!

pastymuncher · 18 Apr 2006 at 10:31

I have it.

It's an impressive reassuringly heavy lump too. I will post temps when i get it up and running in a couple of weeks. Building a rad box at the mo and still deciding on the cpu block and pump. Torn between the DD D5 and the Aquaextreme 50Z-DC12 Inline Pump. The DD D5 has more flow, 1200lph compared to only 700lph for the Aquaextreme. As for the block it's either the DD TDX, the Polarflo TT or the AquaXtreme MP-05 SP Limited Edition. The TT does better than the TDX in a review i found and the TDX is about the same as the Aquaextreme. The only thing is the TT is a triple barb jobber. Not interested in the overpriced out of stock almost everywhere storm.