What’s best tool to try fix cpu pins?

Soldato
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9 Jan 2016
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so nothing out the ordinary for me to having to repair cpu pins, but my methods are not seeming to work.

Basically I took my 2600 out my itx board, but it came out attached to the cooler it was that sealed and eventually using my hand to pull it off I accidentally pressed some pins from the side and trying to correct them I seem to be moving others, so at the moment the cpu isn’t Sitting in the socket properly because of 1 section, it’s like having a wonky chair lol, I’ve annoyingly had to fit my new 1200 in to my new board while I try fix my 2600 as I need my system to be back to running status.


Buying a new 2600 or even finding one used is out the question, so I’m hoping to fix this one like I fix any other processor.
 
For cpus I find a Stanley knife blade works, you can line up the whole row of pins at once and just kind of wiggle to get them all aligned, if that makes sense?
 
Baby (soft) toothbrush can work a treat to clean socket/pins and also to straighten pins by stroking in the proper direction. Just depends how hard they are and how bent they are.
 
Needle tip applicator tube as found on model making glue / liquid poly bottles.

The tube slots over the pin and so you can bend the whole pin rather than just from the tip.
 
Thanks for replies.

Didn’t realise so many options ha, I will given them a try and see how I get on, will admit I would never of thought about a toothbrush, but I suppose all these solutions are safe if they have been tried & tested.
 
Didn’t realise so many options ha, I will given them a try and see how I get on, will admit I would never of thought about a toothbrush, but I suppose all these solutions are safe if they have been tried & tested.
All good options - i use a variation of @Armageus's solution - as you have a lot of control over the pin and where you want to bend (i use a retractable pencil - using the hollow nib slotted over the pin. Make sure pin is clean after.).

*A useful tip when removing a heatsink in the future is to run a synthetic stress test on the CPU for good ~20 minutes - warm up the TIM - and then remove immediately after shut down. Gently twist the HS left and right to help loosen it's grip/suction before attempting removal.
 
This is why I wish the AM4 socket had a clamp like on Intel sockets.

It also means the IHS on a delidded 2400G or 2200G often comes off when removing the cooler unless the IHS has been really thoroughly re-sealed. Probably very few people out there with this same problem though as most Ryzen CPU IHSs are soldered anyway.
 
I managed to sort it, I hadn’t tested it till now, but I got a tiny flat head attachment from a mini screw driver and eventually sorted it, I did have to press down hearing a sorta pop in to place, but I’m using the cooler from the 1200 box as I didn’t think about it, I know they the same, but I don’t know what paste is on the cooler, anyways it’s all working fine which is a massive relief and this is in my new aorus M board, I didn’t actually setup the 1200 in the end.

I managed to find a useful MagnifyGlass app on my phone to help.
 
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