Wheel alignment and chain tension
- Thread starter eidolon
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Associate
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U don't need to loosen the rear axel nuts much 
I use a piece of card & mark it in a couple of places to make sure both sides are the same. Was awkward on the chopper though as it only had a side stand.
Also don't forget to check the chain tension whilst you are sat on the bike.
Also don't forget to check the chain tension whilst you are sat on the bike.
These indicators are only a rough guide and I've seen some that are completely off the mark! (pun intended
)Best bet is to get a tape measure and measure the distance between the rear axle and the bolt that connects the swing arm to the frame.
Once you've made your adjustments roll a screwdriver around the sprocket to completely tension the chain. You can then tighten the rear axle without it moving and undoing your hard work. Remove the screwdriver and go for a ride!
No they're not? At least, on my bike they're very accurate.
My markings are also out. A good tool can be made or brought that goes from the swingarm spindle to the wheel spindle. A tape measure or even some non-stretchy string is okay in you don't have any clutter on the route between the two spindles.
An example of such a tool:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1SuBsssptA&feature=related
Chain: When the wheel spindle is in direct line with both the swingarm spindle and the front sprocket spindle, the chain must still have a degree of play. As this in-line method is not easy to create on many machines, user/service manuals give an easy alternative. They often call for the rear to be off the ground and then give a messure point and distance of play to achive the same thing.
From what I gather from the ER5 manual that I'm looking at: Put the bike on it's center stand and Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain is tightest (do this on the section of chain below the swingarm). Measure the maximum slack by pulling up and pushing down the chain midway between the engine sprocket and rear wheel sprocket. This play should be set to 35-40mm.
An example of such a tool:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1SuBsssptA&feature=related
Chain: When the wheel spindle is in direct line with both the swingarm spindle and the front sprocket spindle, the chain must still have a degree of play. As this in-line method is not easy to create on many machines, user/service manuals give an easy alternative. They often call for the rear to be off the ground and then give a messure point and distance of play to achive the same thing.
From what I gather from the ER5 manual that I'm looking at: Put the bike on it's center stand and Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain is tightest (do this on the section of chain below the swingarm). Measure the maximum slack by pulling up and pushing down the chain midway between the engine sprocket and rear wheel sprocket. This play should be set to 35-40mm.
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Soldato
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do them up equally i.e. half a turn either side, then 1/4 turn more etc until you've got it right.
You can always measure point on rear set to middle of axle bolt on both sides to make sure.
You can always measure point on rear set to middle of axle bolt on both sides to make sure.
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Search on ebay (not sure if I can post links in here) for "Motorcycle Motorbike Universal Chain Alignment Tool"
Clamps to your rear sprocket and you look down it to see if your back wheel is aligned right. Paddock stands are a good idea for cleaning and chain tensioning I find, unless you have a centre stand.
Stay away from Abba stands. I have one, and the metal cup split, meaning the bike fell on top of me. Luckily I gave it a soft landing, but 230kg plus of bike on my leg hurt. Had a tennis ball size lump jutting from my shin where the bike hit and caused a blood clot. Ouch.
Clamps to your rear sprocket and you look down it to see if your back wheel is aligned right. Paddock stands are a good idea for cleaning and chain tensioning I find, unless you have a centre stand.
Stay away from Abba stands. I have one, and the metal cup split, meaning the bike fell on top of me. Luckily I gave it a soft landing, but 230kg plus of bike on my leg hurt. Had a tennis ball size lump jutting from my shin where the bike hit and caused a blood clot. Ouch.
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Sounds a bit rough.
I was plannning on getting one for my R1 as they are suppposed to be excellent - I wonder ehy the cup split?
Sorry mate, wouldn't have the foggiest! Never had a dual swingarm before haha.
However, my mate used to put the rear on a paddock stand (leave the front on the floor) and stick a spirit level between the wheel resting ontop of the seingarm. He would then adjust the wheel until the wee bubble ended up between the lines. Not exactly thorough but the wheel was aligned!
As for chain tension, I always tell people that when sat off the bike, the chain should have around 1" of play. However, it does cary from bike to bike. So check the service manual.
If you feel you MUST sit on the bike, put the bike on the paddock stand, lay on the seat (plank style) and lean over. Grab the paddock stand and pull your self down to it. Check the chain then, if there is no flex at all, you will snap it at some point!
However, my mate used to put the rear on a paddock stand (leave the front on the floor) and stick a spirit level between the wheel resting ontop of the seingarm. He would then adjust the wheel until the wee bubble ended up between the lines. Not exactly thorough but the wheel was aligned!
As for chain tension, I always tell people that when sat off the bike, the chain should have around 1" of play. However, it does cary from bike to bike. So check the service manual.
If you feel you MUST sit on the bike, put the bike on the paddock stand, lay on the seat (plank style) and lean over. Grab the paddock stand and pull your self down to it. Check the chain then, if there is no flex at all, you will snap it at some point!
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Sounds a bit rough.
I was plannning on getting one for my R1 as they are suppposed to be excellent - I wonder ehy the cup split?
Not sure. Used all the right fitting bits too. The thing (like a small metal cup that something else sits in) just split/tore and down went the bike. I stick to paddock stands now. Abba stand was a waste of time and money.
Everything you need to do, and why can be found in this useful 5 minute vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zB4DsHV8SAQ&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zB4DsHV8SAQ&feature=related
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Your swing arm should be marked for alignment, if not just use a rule to measure each side equally.
Remember when tensioning a chain, the limit allows you to adjust for your Body weight, the heavier you are the chain will tighten as you load up the rear suspension.
Remember when tensioning a chain, the limit allows you to adjust for your Body weight, the heavier you are the chain will tighten as you load up the rear suspension.