Wheel Studs - Is drilling my only option?

moss

moss

moss

Soldato
Joined
1 Nov 2002
Posts
6,487
Location
South Shields
My MR2 uses internal drive wheel nuts.
Link below shows an example...
http://www.cometkartsales.com/store/chassis/arrowkart/ark-wheelnut.jpg
Basically 3 of the nuts have started to round, they are also stuck solid, prior to rounding I had tried power bars/impact guns and neither could shift the nut.

I had started to drill out one of the studs using HSS TiN Drill bits but after about an hour I was still not through the stud and managed to blunt a few drill bits. I think I could get through but its going to take hours for each stud.

The nuts sit flush against the alloy both outside and top edge so its not possible to drill the nut or get a socket over the nut.

My last idea is trying Carbide drill bits to maybe speed up the drilling process a little. Anyone got any other suggestions? (Taking it to a garage is on my list, although its a last resort, I never ever use garages for anything other than MOT's)
 
A) Lots of penetrating fluid, even if you have to then clean the brakes up afterwards

B) Using a nice lump hammer, wedge a slightly smaller socket over the top of the nut. From memory, the MR2 uses 19cm sockets, so wedge an 18cm over the top. That said, there's a pretty good chance of merely snapping the stud if it's that tight

C) Can you apply heat to the back of the stud without the risk of burning anything else? I can't remember what's at the back of the MR2 hubs..

D) Take it to a garage :p
 
Hi mate,

I recently had to remove out a wheel bolt after the head snapped off.

Bought an "easy out" which basically is threaded the other way so you drill a hole then screw it in anti-clockwise and when(if!) if bites it will undo the bolt as it is tightened. However I had no luck with it and couldn't get it to bite enough.

In the end my Dad spent a couple of hours drilling it with regular metal bits starting small and gradually increasing the size. When he had a fair sized hole he managed to hammer in a flat head screwdriver socket and undo the rest of the bolt that way.

Did you start off with a really small bit?
 
ci_newman - Its not possible to get a socket over the nut, they sit flush against the alloy.

Bat - Aye, I used a smaller bit to start, it has taken a fair bit of the stud away, but it still probably requires another hours drilling. Then theres 2 more to remove.
An "easy out" would be no use unfortunatly.

Ive got a decent electric drill and a compressor too. Ive got a feeling spending hours drilling is going to be my only option.
 
ci_newman said:
B) Using a nice lump hammer, wedge a slightly smaller socket over the top of the nut. From memory, the MR2 uses 19cm sockets, so wedge an 18cm over the top. That said, there's a pretty good chance of merely snapping the stud if it's that tight
Click to expand...

ive used a sacrificial 16mm bolt loads of times on 17mm bolts. halfords do crap 12 pointed ones that go on nicely
 
moss said:
ci_newman - Its not possible to get a socket over the nut, they sit flush against the alloy.

Bat - Aye, I used a smaller bit to start, it has taken a fair bit of the stud away, but it still probably requires another hours drilling. Then theres 2 more to remove.
An "easy out" would be no use unfortunatly.

Ive got a decent electric drill and a compressor too. Ive got a feeling spending hours drilling is going to be my only option.
Click to expand...


I reckon so I'm afraid mate. Most garages have nifty ways of doing this type of stuff, but it usually involves big expensive tools.

Screwfix are doing a cobalt drill bit set for a decent price in their clearout: -
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80584...S-Sets/Erbauer-HSS-Cobalt-Drill-Bit-Set-19-Pc

It's online only or so they told me so a fiver for delivery or you may be able to get a store to order them in if you go in. Something like them and the best drill you can lay your hands is gonna be the best bet IMO.
 
Have you got some lubrication on the nut while you're drilling? Proper drilling lubricant is a must for drilling hard / thick metal. Drill slowly and keep dropping some into the drilling area.

Drill a 6mm hole in a piece of metal first and use this as a guide jig, held in place by two other wheel nuts, to keep the fat drill bit (I guess 17mm or so) in place (central to the nut) while you're drilling it. Drill a 6mm pilot hole into the nut.

Or, weld a socket to the nut and get the bar / impact wrench on it again.

Another option is to drill several small holes and wack it with a chisel, hoping it shatters.

Yet another one is to get it super-red-hot and try and use mole grips.

Use cobalt drill bits.
 
Last edited:
my old housemate used my dremel to get his DC2 locking wheel nut off, after the garage botched it

took about 15 mins
 
Robbie G said:
Have you got some lubrication on the nut while you're drilling? Proper drilling lubricant is a must for drilling hard / thick metal. Drill slowly and keep dropping some into the drilling area.

Drill a 6mm hole in a piece of metal first and use this as a guide jig, held in place by two other wheel nuts, to keep the fat drill bit (I guess 17mm or so) in place (central to the nut) while you're drilling it. Drill a 6mm pilot hole into the nut.

Or, weld a socket to the nut and get the bar / impact wrench on it again.

Another option is to drill several small holes and wack it with a chisel, hoping it shatters.

Yet another one is to get it super-red-hot and try and use mole grips.

Use cobalt drill bits.
Click to expand...
Didnt mention directly in the OP but the alloy is stuck on and the nuts are totally concealed and sit flush within the alloy.

The studs only about 9mm or so, but its not possible to use other wheel nuts to hold a guide jig in place as they sit inside of the alloy wheel. I was using plenty of lube while drilling too.

Again its not really possible to weld anything to the nut either.
 
Last edited:
Another vote for the cobalt drill bits. I got a set from machine mart so I could drill out a stainless steel exhaust stud, was amazingly quick. Only thing is they will overheat and break after about 15-20 seconds of drilling so need to be kept cool.
 
What impact gun are you using? Those cheap crappy AutoXS/Powercraft ones can't undo a bottletop, nevermind a wheel nut. I would take it to a garage and let them worry about it. If they **** it up, they gotta fix it. They use proper tools to do the job
 
I've had trouble with similar types of worn nut, i use 1/2" drive torx bits and beat them in with a hammer (the tips make their own path), then blast them off with a gun.
 
Can you split the nut?

I had to drill an old locking nut off my car a year or 2 ago.

Drilled a hole either side of the stud, put a small 'punch' in the holes and hammered the **** out of it. Done this both sides and the nut split in half.
 
SB118 said:
I've had trouble with similar types of worn nut, i use 1/2" drive torx bits and beat them in with a hammer (the tips make their own path), then blast them off with a gun.
Click to expand...
Tried that too!
Batf1nk said:
Can you split the nut?

I had to drill an old locking nut off my car a year or 2 ago.

Drilled a hole either side of the stud, put a small 'punch' in the holes and hammered the **** out of it. Done this both sides and the nut split in half.
Click to expand...
Theres no place for the split nut to go, it sits flush against the alloy.
 
Batf1nk said:
Got a pic of the actual wheel/nuts?
Click to expand...

He posted a pic earler of them. I know what type they are. There isn't any room at all to grip with stilsons or anything. These nuts just about fit in the hole and are flush with the alloy with a hex socket in them. He's tried wacking a Torx fitting into them to no avail.

Look nice on the car, but you run into problems like this :(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom