Where have all the wired 5.1 surround systems gone?

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Where have all the wired 5.1 surround systems gone?

I've had a Panasonic Bluray player with built-in 5.1 amp for over a decade. It has served me well, but over the weekend stopped booting up and it is repeatedly flashing "please wait" on its screen. So I am back to using the TV's built in speakers.

Looking at replacement options, they are very limited. Sound bars with subs seems to make up the majority of the market and the options that do have rear speakers are very expensive and wireless meaning I need additional plug sockets behind the settee which I don't have.

My Panasonic speakers are still fine, so I'm considering just finding an AMP with ARC and using my existing speakers. However, most amps seem too big for the shelf under our TV.

Any ideas? I'm actually considering looking at second hand market.

Just to be clear I don't need a blu-ray player any more I don't think I've played a Blu-ray for nearly a decade.
 
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Those Panasonic speakers aren't designed with regular AVRs, also that Panasonic subwoofer will be passive, so it won't work with a AVR.

Choices will be soundbar, or you go the whole hog and buy a AVR, 5 speakers, and a subwoofer.

Second hand AVR, speakers and sub won't be that expensive, as long as you just nee 1080p- those AVR will be very affordable
 
I think soundbars have wired them out. My first av unit was a Sony thing that was similar to yours, although it predated blurry and was only did but it worked well for me.
 
I'm confused. What model bluray player did you have and what model speakers do you have. What end result do you want? To re-use your existing speakers?
Those Panasonic speakers aren't designed with regular AVRs, also that Panasonic subwoofer will be passive, so it won't work with a AVR.

Why would it not work?
 
Unusual speaker impedence of the 5 speakers - typically 3 or 4 ohm.
And the subwoofer is likely passive, that requires a amplifier. AVR's don't have suitable amplifier for passive subwoofers, as they are designed for active subs (plate amp)

Of course your Panasonic sub could be active, I need the model number. But with active subwoofer HTIB with speaker outputs, those outputs will be EQ's and crossovered in the box. Won't work.

Either buy a souundbar or proper AVR/speaker system, I'd say for a budget AVR/ 5.1 system, that is half decent (but out of date but usable 1080p AVR) aroud £300-£400 or so second hands.
 
Sorry yeah I get it. Agree. Best bet would be to just go on ebay locally. You can get some right bargains.

First thing to decide on - as it affects the whole setup - is can you make do with a 1080p AVR or one that passes through 4K. When I updated mine for my LG OLED, I went with a second hand 4K one, but it was more to get eARC as that's the way I wanted to set it up. I don't actually pass through any 4K sources. They all go to my TV direct then out via eARC to the AVR. So it depends on how you will set it up.
Best bet is to post your model numbers of everything and how you want to to consume stuff.
 
Sorry yeah I get it. Agree. Best bet would be to just go on ebay locally. You can get some right bargains.

First thing to decide on - as it affects the whole setup - is can you make do with a 1080p AVR or one that passes through 4K. When I updated mine for my LG OLED, I went with a second hand 4K one, but it was more to get eARC as that's the way I wanted to set it up. I don't actually pass through any 4K sources. They all go to my TV direct then out via eARC to the AVR. So it depends on how you will set it up.
Best bet is to post your model numbers of everything and how you want to to consume stuff.
What would 1080p or 4k have to do with this situation? It doesn't involve the picture at all, only decoding Dolby 5.1 etc?
 
What would 1080p or 4k have to do with this situation? It doesn't involve the picture at all, only decoding Dolby 5.1 etc?

Are you familiar with how AVRs work? Like I say, best bet is to post up your entire setup and how you want to connect it all and what sources/models etc, then people can advise. It's not "only decoding 5.1" if you are passing through the AVR to your TV, it becomes slightly more than that.
 
Are you familiar with how AVRs work? Like I say, best bet is to post up your entire setup and how you want to connect it all and what sources/models etc, then people can advise. It's not "only decoding 5.1" if you are passing through the AVR to your TV, it becomes slightly more than that.

My guess is with his system he uses it for audio only, or video he goes direct from the source, then audio from source to the a panasonic so video capabilities of the panasonic aren't used, and bypassed. Something I did with 4K, or PC 144hz source but non HDMI AVR as an example.
 
I'm confused. What model bluray player did you have and what model speakers do you have. What end result do you want? To re-use your existing speakers?


Why would it not work?
I can't find the exact model online will need to check when I get home but it is very very similar to both:
Panasonic SC-BTT290 or the SA-BTT405

Both of which I see listed on eBay, but I don't see mine.

I'm quite happy to use the existing speakers (preferred option)
 
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I can't find the exact model online will need to check when I get home but it is very very similar to both:
Panasonic SC-BTT290 or the SA-BTT405

Both of which I see listed on eBay, but I don't see mine.

I'm quite happy to use the existing speakers (preferred option)

You can't as they are likely 3 ohm, hard to drive EQ'd to that specific HTIB box.
They aren't designed to be used with a regular AVR.


What is your budget?
 
OK I think you have one of those all in one HTIB systems that were really designed to work off of the original source Bluray box with the built in amp. The speaker terminals that plug into the back of it are likely proprietary as well right, with their own plastic block connectors? It looks like the ones you linked to just do 1080p as well so I assume your TV can't do 4K? Or were you just watching 1080p blurays?

You have a choice really:
1) Find a replacement source Panasonic bluray/AVR (HTIB) all in one source unit which is similar enough to work with your current speakers. You may have to modify the speaker connectors if you can solder/crimp if they are not the same. Not sure how much they differ between generations. Might be risky if they don't match the speaker requirements exactly though.
2) Cut the terminal blocks off the ends of the speakers and just run them off your own AVR. This might come with problems with matching the speaker impedance and/or power as hornetstinger says. We need exact model numbers to see really.
3) Ditch the speakers and buy a new universal AVR which can run more typical 5.1 speaker configurations. Buy speakers which match it.
 
OK I think you have one of those all in one HTIB systems that were really designed to work off of the original source Bluray box with the built in amp. The speaker terminals that plug into the back of it are likely proprietary as well right, with their own plastic block connectors? It looks like the ones you linked to just do 1080p as well so I assume your TV can't do 4K? Or were you just watching 1080p blurays?

You have a choice really:
1) Find a replacement source Panasonic bluray/AVR (HTIB) all in one source unit which is similar enough to work with your current speakers. You may have to modify the speaker connectors if you can solder/crimp if they are not the same. Not sure how much they differ between generations. Might be risky if they don't match the speaker requirements exactly though.
2) Cut the terminal blocks off the ends of the speakers and just run them off your own AVR. This might come with problems with matching the speaker impedance and/or power as hornetstinger says. We need exact model numbers to see really.
3) Ditch the speakers and buy a new universal AVR which can run more typical 5.1 speaker configurations. Buy speakers which match it.
As stated in original post I don't use the blueray player at all other than for its ARC surround sound.

I guess the answer is look for a second hard system of the same type. Thanks all.
 
Is there room for a soundbar under the TV? I suspect if you were happy with the sound from a HTIB then a soundbar potentially with rears and sub (possibly add later) will be a good option for you.

There is a lot of negativity towards soundbars, but they are often good options. I’ve got an all singing all dancing AVR system with atmos in my gaming/cinema room and soundbar for my living room. They aren’t sooo far off that I wish I had an AVR in my living room and the compromise in other areas like aesthetics that it would bring
 
Where have all the wired 5.1 surround systems gone?

I've had a Panasonic Bluray player with built-in 5.1 amp for over a decade. It has served me well, but over the weekend stopped booting up and it is repeatedly flashing "please wait" on its screen. So I am back to using the TV's built in speakers.

Looking at replacement options, they are very limited. Sound bars with subs seems to make up the majority of the market and the options that do have rear speakers are very expensive and wireless meaning I need additional plug sockets behind the settee which I don't have.

My Panasonic speakers are still fine, so I'm considering just finding an AMP with ARC and using my existing speakers. However, most amps seem too big for the shelf under our TV.

Any ideas? I'm actually considering looking at second hand market.

Just to be clear I don't need a blu-ray player any more I don't think I've played a Blu-ray for nearly a decade.

The idea of using the Panasonic speakers is a complete non-starter if you decide to go down the road of a proper AV receiver. Those speakers might look fine, and still have worked fine with the Panasonic, but as others have said, they're designed to work with the Panasonic and not intended to be used with AV receivers.

If you want to get into the technicalities of it, the Panasonic speakers have a much lower impedance (3 Ohms) than speakers for an AV receiver will have at 6~8 Ohms. Also, at certain frequencies they'll go a lot lower than that. The closer the impedance gets to 0 Ohms the more it looks like a dead short to an AV receiver, and the bigger the risk that the receiver will just try to dump a lot of electrical current, and it's the current that causes things to get hot > overheat > then transistors blow up.

"So how come the Panasonic amp doesn't blow up if 3-Ohm speakers are so bad?"

3-Ohm speakers aren't bad for an amp designed to run with them. It's when you mix-n-match inappropriately that you run into trouble. If you put higher Ohms speakers with that Panasonic head-unit you'd find there'd be a heck of a lot less volume. The better quality of proper Hi-Fi/AV speakers would also throw a spotlight on the sonic shortcomings of the head unit, too.

Standard AV receivers are the size they are in order to keep the magnetic fields from the transformer away from the interference-sensitive preamp circuits.

The Panasonic head-unit and ones similar to it use switch-mode power supplies and Class D power amps. It's possible to make an amp that will deliver a lot of current with circuits using very few components, so it saves space and can be done at a low cost. This is partly why entry-level DVD home cinema kits started at £99 for the head-unit plus speakers and sub whereas the entry-level AV receiver systems were £199~£249 and still needed a DVD player as an extra.

Class D amps are very good at delivering a lot of current, but not so good at creating a voltage as a music signal. For cheaper transistor amps it's the other way around. The way that speakers work, the music signal as a voltage causes the speaker to react and draw current from the amp. A speaker with lower Ohms draws more current at a lower voltage to create a Watt of power. Another way of looking at it is that for the same voltage, the lower Ohms speaker draws more current and so it looks like the system is a higher wattage.

Speakers work from a low voltage AC signal, so strictly speaking it's not right to use the DC power equations, but it keeps the maths simpler and helps show the proportional relationships.

A 6 Ohms speaker responding to a 12V signal uses 24W of power. (V squared / Ohms = Power, so (12x12) / 6 = 24).

A 3 Ohms speaker responding to a 12V signal uses 48W of power. (V squared / Ohms = Power, so (12x12) / 3 = 48).

The low Ohms system looks like it is creating more watts, but in the process it is burning through twice as much current (fuel) to do so. The calculation for current is simple. It's just Volts divided by Ohms.

12V / 6 Ohms = 2 amps

12 / 3 = 4 amps

Okay, that's enough of the background. Now let's look at how you get your system back up and running.

I think the first option you should seriously consider is a repair to the Panasonic head unit. There is nothing as slim in an aftermarket AV receiver as the 40mm / 1.5" player-amps in these kits. If 40mm is your maximum, with little or no leeway, then your hands are tied. The fact that this has started to fail rather than gone with a bang gives you some hope that the issue is bad capacitors. You can Google 'bad caps' online to see the sort of issues. Replacing the caps like-for-like (same voltage, same uF) will restore the system if it's a capacitor fault.

Where you have a bit more height to play with then there are some other options, but they won't be new. They may also will involve either a bit of ingenuity with the speaker connections or changing the speakers too.

  1. You could look for a replacement Panasonic head unit. This gives you the best chance of the speaker plug ends fitting directly. Personally, I would look at repairing yours before going down this road as you already know its condition and how it has been used
  2. A replacement head unit that will work with 3-4 Ohms speakers. This one is slightly trickier because stuff like the crossover frequency between the main speakers and the sub will have been set to work with whatever speakers that head unit was supplied with. Being set in the circuit design means that it can't be changed, and so the risk is that it's either too high or too low to match what your speakers and sub need. The result could be either too much overlap between the speakers and sub, or not enough. You'd have to do some digging on what speakers any replacement head unit came with to see if they're a close enough match to your Panasonic speakers. The second issue is fitting the plugs. It's usual to find that the speaker cable plug ends are specific to each manufacturer. You might be able to get around this by fitting boot lace ferrules to the cables after cutting off the attached plugs. Have a look at the Pioneer head-unit receiver under eBay number 126127502226
  3. A slimline AV receiver for 6-8 Ohm speakers. You will need to swap your speakers as well, so factor this in with the cost.
The slimline receivers from Marantz (the NR-series), Pioneer and others also use switch-mode power supplies and Class D amps, but of much better quality. These will be around 10cm / 4" tall, and they'll need another 4" of clear space above and to the sides for ventilation since they don't use the forced air flow of fan cooling.

The Marantz range gives you the best chance of an ARC connection, so any sources that need to be 4K can go straight to the TV, and then sound can be sent out in DD5.1 to the receiver. I've seen prices as low as £100 and ranging up to £300-£400 depending on whether the seller is including speakers. Some of the later NR series receiver are 4K compatible, but the prices are higher.

A lot of these receivers were supplied with set-up microphones, and the EQ wizard not only sets the speaker sizes, delays crossover frequencies etc but also measures the effect of the room's acoustics on the sound then compensates for it. It's important to make sure the receiver comes with the original set-up mic and the unit's remote control.

Some Marantz receivers for you to look at: eBay numbers 126138543855, 186118506184,

Pioneer made some DD/DTS slimline receivers too. Being older, they have none of the HDMI ARC and fancy room EQ features, but they're relatively cheap. Search eBay: "Pioneer receiver" and you should find VSX-321, VSX-C300, VSX-S310
 
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