which coolant is better??

James Manns

James Manns

James Manns

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Joined
20 Nov 2009
Posts
489
im new to w/c and its my first system and ive heard about putting distilled and de ionised water ect in and ive looked at the fluids on OCUK,
im going for the UV stuff and ive found to options and i dont know the difference,
this, click
and this, click

can someone tell me the difference??
like is the more expensive one better for UV:confused:

thanks
 
Only ever used the Feser One UV reactive (which I know doesnt help) but I have now swapped to pure un-dyed fluid with "kill coils" due to horrendous "gunk" build up in my blocks with UV addative - I would suggest a pure un-coloured un reactive fluid with coloured / UV reactive tubes as a "safer" option ;)
 
Hi - Yes the expensive (relatively) Feser UV stuff does leave gunk in your loop

As for where you can get the Feser (UV / Coloured or Pure) I cant say as I would have to post / hint at a competitor and would be handed some entirely inappropriate "punishment" like a three day ban or the like :P

But if you were to google (UK only) "feser pure fluid" there is a place approximately 6 listings down (third under shopping results) that is a damn fine place ;)
 
Well everyone will say NO YOU CANT USE THAT but for the past ?? 7 years i have only ever used water (tap) and Vauxhall antifrezze (its pink) Iam in the motor trade and we all know that antifreeze is also coolant and that it has anti corrosive properties.

I dont care what anyone says there just trying to get you to part with your cash.

Antifreeze will cost £3.50 per Litre mix it 50-50 and your right, At first it was 75% but over time just topped it up with water.

In fact i still have the water pump running from my first build and over 5 years i only ever cleaned my block twice. O forgot to say that tank was outside so was full of crap.
 
thanks a lot, my brother has a load of nearly new antifreeze which he said i could have but i wasnt shure if it would do anythink to loop?
is there any you can buy which is straight out the bottle UV,clean and not too expensive?
 
Well i would use new/fresh stuff. All your paying for is the lable on the bottle. All you need is something that kills algie and has an anticoagulant (big word of the day) O and of corse antioxidants.

Go to any motor factors and ask premixed antifrezze and just use that.it costs about £3.50 per litre. ATM i use 25% water and 75% ethylene glycol(pure antifrezze). When its competition time i freeze the lot to -20 and away we go.

Read this mate. and save your cash :)


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol
 
~TB~ said:
But if you were to google (UK only) "feser pure fluid" there is a place approximately 6 listings down (third under shopping results) that is a damn fine place ;)
Click to expand...

Strangely, a link to this actual thread also appears on the first page if you type the above into google. If we're not careful this thread could trigger a negative reality inversion causality loop hole.
 
I use such high concentrations of antifreeze cos at times i cool it to -15/-20

James: When i enter comps or just want to have a play i freeze the stuff.

Dont want to use phase change as everyone has it and its far tomuch messing about.
 
However i would bear a warning you have to remenber one thing really if you have a serious leak with antifreeze you can have a dead pc. For me really the only stuff i use is non-conductive coolant (clear).

If you want to do the cheaper option then deionised water (you can get that from any car hardware store (used for topping up batteries)). Really though in my oponion, if your not going down the cheaper route, just get the deionised water and get urself some anti-algae and non-conductive additives and youll be a lot better off.

You have to remenber it's all down to really how much your worried about fried parts (and about finding the money to replace them).
 
Bubo said:
Strangely, a link to this actual thread also appears on the first page if you type the above into google. If we're not careful this thread could trigger a negative reality inversion causality loop hole.
Click to expand...

If we keep quoting each other perhaps we could cause another singularity ?


:D
 
I am moving from feser one UV blue to plain de-ionised water mainly because the primochill res I just bought can crack with coolants based on glycol (eg FeserONE).

I'm guessing as my loop is closed and my tubes are black, the chance of light (UV) getting into my system is very low .

Would I need a biocide in my loop?
 
After the gunk in my loop i cleaned the blocks out with vinegar (and Tommy K :P) then flushed it all out and swapped the tubing.
 
So long as you have one metal, distilled water (battery top up water from halfords/motorfactors) and nothing else.

Antifreeze and other additives reduce thermal properties.
 
Ehtylene glycol makes a lot of sense if going below zero, but even at -20 I can't believe you need a 50/50 mix. It doesn't cool as well as water, so you don't benefit from using more than is required to stop it freezing.

Some copper sulphate/piece of silver is effective at stopping anything growing in the loop, and it's annoying to find algae in your reservoir. I've got a "kill coil" is it was less effort to buy one online than to find a jewellers who was willing to sell me some silver wire.

The mixed metals thing is that any non pure metals in electrical contact (covered with water say) will corrode. The only mechanism which causes water coolers much hassle is aluminium - copper in direct contact, though I personally wouldn't want copper + aluminium in the loop, even seperated by tubing and while running anticorrosion liquid (glycol would do).
 
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