Which OBD tool or scanner should I get for VW Bora 1999 Petrol 1.6

naz

naz

naz

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Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
261
Location
Kingsbury, London
I've just failed the M.O.T. emmissions test. Reason for refusal: Exhaust emissions Lamda reading after 2nd fast idle, outside specified limits. 7.3.D.4

The guy at Kwik-Ft said we can't fix it, we need the code from the OBD or ECU ?

Sorry guys cars are not my thing, but would really like to get this sorted. He thinks it could be an air leak. The car idles very badly, it revs up to 1000/rpm constanly when just sitting in traffic. Sometimes it cuts out especially when I reverse?
I do lots of slow local driving. The sparks plugs have not been changed for 7 years. I will get an oil change this week.
Can you suggest anything else, I can do to fix this problem. Want to buy this:

U281 OBD-2 CAN-BUS CODE SCANNER VW/AUDI/SEAT/SKODA. To find the fault code, then go to the mechanic to fix it.

Was'nt sure how to title this at all.
 
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A copy of vag com and a cheap ebay obd-2 lead should do it.

Try removing and thoroughly cleaning the throttle body first, leaving the battery off for half an hour, then driving 40+ miles.

Actually, scratch that, iirc you'll need vag com to reset the throttle body after cleaning (tis a 1 click function, easy enough).
 
Hi mate, you lost me at "you'll need vag com to reset the throttle body after cleaning (it's a 1 click function, easy enough)."

What is vag com and how much is it. Looks like I need to clean the throttle body with a special spray. I may not have the tools to remove that long black tube connected to it though, it has these very tight round springs connected around it.
Thanks!!!
 
Hi there chap.

This is advice passed from one amateur to another :D, but essentially; the clip around the long black tube/hose connecting the throttle body has 2 prongs sticking out. If you use a pair of pliers to squeeze them together, it loosens the clip, and you can work the clip back down the pipe, and work the pipe off the throttle body.

Then the throttle body will be held on by 4 x 10mm or 13mm bolts. Can be a little awkward to get the bottom 2 off, but not too hard. Once they're off (and the connected pipes), you can remove the throttle body from the engine.

To clean it, you'll need a can (spray can) of carb cleaner from halfrauds/motorfactors, a toothbrush, and a rag.

Put the throttle body in a bowl of some sort, and apply carb cleaner liberally (internally). Spray some carb cleaner onto a rag, and use it to thoroughly clean the inside of the throttle body. Tis a big tube. You can get 3 fingers in there. Can't go wrong. You'll see the dirt coming off..
There will be a lever of sorts on the side of the throttle body that opens and closes a plate inside the throttle body (which controls airflow, you'll know it when you see it :D, big old butterfly valve of sorts). You'll want to find a way of holding that open while you're cleaning, so that you can clean through the whole throttle body...
Once you're done with the rag, clearing out as much oil/grime as you can, go at it again with the toothbrush. Using plenty of carb cleaner. Paying close attention to the slot/gap that the plate opens from/closes into (this is the area that causes the rough idle/cutting out. The valve doesn't close fully, because grime blocks it, allowing air to flow though).

The main issue with them tends to relate to them getting a little gunked up. The butterfly valve thing doesn't close fully, due to gunk.. Air passes through, and you wind up with a rough idle^. Definately worth a go. it's solved 3 rough VW idles in a row for me..

After putting everything back together, you would ideally use VAG COM to re-align the throttle body (re-sync the actual position of the butterfly valve that you just cleaned out with the position perceived by the ECU). Though I do believe that by leaving the battery disconnected for 30 mins and then driving 40+ miles the ECU will adapt, and perform the same function, essentially, without having to run VAG COM. But don't quote me..

VAG COM is a piece of software used to read VAG (Volkswagen Audi Group.. And a bunch of other names I cba to go into) sensor codes, and reset/play around with pre-programmed maintenance procedures.
You would install it onto a laptop, then use a USB>OBD-II cable to plug yourself into the car's OBD port, and fire up VAG COM to access all of the fun bits.

In truth though, it costs a small fortune, and is a pita to install and deal with, for the sake of a simple code reading. If you're not that way inclined, and don't intend to use it regularly, it's not overly easy to navigate/install/deal with, and not cost effective.
If your current mechanic doesn't have a copy, he's most likely the wrong chap for the job (Kwik Fit are never, ever the right chaps for the job..)..

Best bet is to phone around locally and find an indy that can read/reset VW codes of the era. Clean the throttle body yourself; and then take it to them to have the codes read, throttle body re-alligned (using the software), and the codes reset. It shouldn't cost you more than £30. Then go back to Kwik Fit.
Though tbh chap (I'd feel bad for if I were to not say this..), Kwik Fit are the last people you should be taking your car to. They're rather unreliable.

Edit: Watch a bunch of youtube 'VW throttle body cleaning' guides, to get an idea of what you're up against. It's very simple stuff so long as you can get the thing off in the first place. No more difficult than cleaning a PC case or something similar. Have a look at a few vids to get yourself acquainted.
 
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That's a very concise reply. Thanks, but I can't afford vag com, too much for me. I'm going to see my mechanic tomorrow, to try and sort out the issues with my car. Get him to find the error code and sort it. He's not as expensive as most are.
 
benneh said:
Hi there chap.

This is advice passed from one amateur to another :D, but essentially; the clip around the long black tube/hose connecting the throttle body has 2 prongs sticking out. If you use a pair of pliers to squeeze them together, it loosens the clip, and you can work the clip back down the pipe, and work the pipe off the throttle body.

Then the throttle body will be held on by 4 x 10mm or 13mm bolts. Can be a little awkward to get the bottom 2 off, but not too hard. Once they're off (and the connected pipes), you can remove the throttle body from the engine.

To clean it, you'll need a can (spray can) of carb cleaner from halfrauds/motorfactors, a toothbrush, and a rag.

Put the throttle body in a bowl of some sort, and apply carb cleaner liberally (internally). Spray some carb cleaner onto a rag, and use it to thoroughly clean the inside of the throttle body. Tis a big tube. You can get 3 fingers in there. Can't go wrong. You'll see the dirt coming off..
There will be a lever of sorts on the side of the throttle body that opens and closes a plate inside the throttle body (which controls airflow, you'll know it when you see it :D, big old butterfly valve of sorts). You'll want to find a way of holding that open while you're cleaning, so that you can clean through the whole throttle body...
Once you're done with the rag, clearing out as much oil/grime as you can, go at it again with the toothbrush. Using plenty of carb cleaner. Paying close attention to the slot/gap that the plate opens from/closes into (this is the area that causes the rough idle/cutting out. The valve doesn't close fully, because grime blocks it, allowing air to flow though).

The main issue with them tends to relate to them getting a little gunked up. The butterfly valve thing doesn't close fully, due to gunk.. Air passes through, and you wind up with a rough idle^. Definately worth a go. it's solved 3 rough VW idles in a row for me..

After putting everything back together, you would ideally use VAG COM to re-align the throttle body (re-sync the actual position of the butterfly valve that you just cleaned out with the position perceived by the ECU). Though I do believe that by leaving the battery disconnected for 30 mins and then driving 40+ miles the ECU will adapt, and perform the same function, essentially, without having to run VAG COM. But don't quote me..

VAG COM is a piece of software used to read VAG (Volkswagen Audi Group.. And a bunch of other names I cba to go into) sensor codes, and reset/play around with pre-programmed maintenance procedures.
You would install it onto a laptop, then use a USB>OBD-II cable to plug yourself into the car's OBD port, and fire up VAG COM to access all of the fun bits.

In truth though, it costs a small fortune, and is a pita to install and deal with, for the sake of a simple code reading. If you're not that way inclined, and don't intend to use it regularly, it's not overly easy to navigate/install/deal with, and not cost effective.
If your current mechanic doesn't have a copy, he's most likely the wrong chap for the job (Kwik Fit are never, ever the right chaps for the job..)..

Best bet is to phone around locally and find an indy that can read/reset VW codes of the era. Clean the throttle body yourself; and then take it to them to have the codes read, throttle body re-alligned (using the software), and the codes reset. It shouldn't cost you more than £30. Then go back to Kwik Fit.
Though tbh chap (I'd feel bad for if I were to not say this..), Kwik Fit are the last people you should be taking your car to. They're rather unreliable.

Edit: Watch a bunch of youtube 'VW throttle body cleaning' guides, to get an idea of what you're up against. It's very simple stuff so long as you can get the thing off in the first place. No more difficult than cleaning a PC case or something similar. Have a look at a few vids to get yourself acquainted.
Click to expand...

Excellent reply. Except VAG doesn't stand for Volkswagen Audi Group, but actually stands for Volkswagenwerk Aktiengesellschaft, which is often shortened to Volkswagenwerk AG. But that is off target to be fair.

As for not being able to afford vagcom, yes it's expensive, but after a couple diagnoses it has paid for itself. You could always pick up a buckshee cable from and auction site though, and use a limited version that should be enough to scan and erase codes, as well as possibly do many other things. Gotta be worth £20...
 
Just back from the garage. They find these error codes:

00537 Lambda Control Upper
Stop
Value

00520 Air mass/flow Sporaddic
meter-G70/G19 Open short circuit to earth.

00668 Vehichle Sporadic
voltage Open
terminal 30 circuit
Said the engine bulb was missing?

Hope that makes sense to someone.

They changed the spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body. Said the servo vacuum pipe? is cracked and they taped it up. Also that the Lambda sensor might need replacing but not now like the pipe. Just take the car on the motor way and go through the gears hard clear out the gunk built up over the years of slow local driving. He said use superunleaded fuel which will help.
To re-take the M.O.T. tomorrow so will have to drive on motorway early mourning and thrash it. Total charge £65 thats £45 just for the labour.
 
naz said:
Just back from the garage. They find these error codes:

00537 Lambda Control Upper
Stop
Value

00520 Air mass/flow Sporaddic
meter-G70/G19 Open short circuit to earth.

00668 Vehichle Sporadic
voltage Open
terminal 30 circuit
Said the engine bulb was missing?

Hope that makes sense to someone.

They changed the spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body. Said the servo vacuum pipe? is cracked and they taped it up. Also that the Lambda sensor might need replacing but not now like the pipe. Just take the car on the motor way and go through the gears hard clear out the gunk built up over the years of slow local driving. He said use superunleaded fuel which will help.
To re-take the M.O.T. tomorrow so will have to drive on motorway early mourning and thrash it. Total charge £65 thats £45 just for the labour.
Click to expand...


00537 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00537

In reality, it's either a lambda sensor, or a split hose. They identified a split hose. And taping it up isn't going to solve the issue in the long term (but, for the MOT, it might work - if it does, look into replacing it when you can).

00520 - meter-G70/G19 Open short circuit to earth.

Well, this can either be a knackered Mass Airflow Sensor (which is worth cleaning with electrical contact cleaner, carefully, before replacing), or it can refer to an issue with the wiring to/from the MAF. It could well be earthing/grounding out somewhere along the wiring. It's sporadic, so it's going to be a pain to reveal the source. But my money/first go to would be on a MAF issue. Tis common..

00668 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00668

I've had this, and it was caused by a knackered battery. Though tbh, it could (as it says) well have been stored (the code) a while ago, during a cold spell/conditions that effected the wiring. In any event, for the MOT I wouldn't worry about it. Check all of the fuses, and check the alternator output. Then check the battery (or have it checked).

As for the engine bulb being missing. I have no idea. Is he refering to the check engine light in the dash display?. If so, the primary causes for that being lit would be lambda sensor, and MAF.


Changing the spark plugs and cleaning the throttle body (assuming it was done thoroughly) can't hurt. Hopefully that will result in some kind of shift in the emissions. The reason he's telling you to go for a run is because hopefully the ECU will adapt to the new(er) readings, and adapt favourably. In terms of blasting the crap out of the engine sadly it doesn't work. The Italian tune-up rarely works :D. The vacuum pipe will need to be replaced, as soon as you can. The tape fix wont last very long, and the car wont run properly until it is replaced.

All in all, for £65, including spark plugs/fault code reading/bodge on the pipe, you got your money's worth. So I hope that works for you come MOT time duder. If it fails, give it a good long run, and look at replacing the vacuum hose right away, the Lambda sensor after that, and giving the MAF a good careful clean (and if that doesn't work, replacing it).

GL dude.



xs2man said:
VAG doesn't stand for Volkswagen Audi Group, but actually stands for Volkswagenwerk Aktiengesellschaft, which is often shortened to Volkswagenwerk AG.
Click to expand...


benneh said:
(Volkswagen Audi Group.. And a bunch of other names I cba to go into)
Click to expand...

;p x.
 
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It hasn't been called VAG-COM for quite sometime now. Its called VCDS and yes it costs around £250 from Ross-tech but that includes hardware (that won't kill your OBD port) and lifetime software and tech support from Ross-Tech.

I have one and so do many people around the UK. If you don't want to buy it just go to one of the VW forums and find a member close to you that can help, we are all more than willing to give up 5 mins of our time to sort whatever you need doing.
 
Sounds like the car just needs a good service if you haven't changed the plugs in 7 years, stick some new plugs in it and some carb cleaner
run some fuel cleaner in the petrol and for for a good run


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