Hi, Recently I put Conductonaut on my GPU (EVGA Black SC Gaming) idle temps were fine on the core idle at desktop however when I started games and put it under load the games would crash back to the desktop within 20 seconds, So I spent all day trying to figure out if it was the thermal pads I had placed on wrong or something, So eventually after doing many things I found that when I took the Conductonaut off and put Kryonaut on all was fine.... After that I proceeded to try it again and three times in a row it would crash with the Conductonaut and work every time with the Kryonaut.. I am stumped, Anyone got any clues?
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Why is my 1080 Ti crashing with Conductonaut?
- Thread starter Evian
- Start date
Are you overclocking the card in any way ? if you are try running the card at stock clocks and power limit and see if you still get the crashing with the Kryonaut , if no crash try setting up your overclock again, you might find that the better thermal heat transfer is allowing the boost clock to climb higher but your lacking the voltage to stabilise the overclock.
Unless you accidentally got it on some of the caps around the gpu die causing some kind of short/instability.
I have conductonaut on my Ti and it works extremely well. However I taped off the caps at the side of the core to prevent an issue.
I have conductonaut on my Ti and it works extremely well. However I taped off the caps at the side of the core to prevent an issue.
Soldato
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all i can think of is more thermal heat being transfered into the Heatsink and the core not coping of will spike if the heatsink reaches its thermal limit- or liquid has gone some where but as you said you've swapped back and forth and its fine
True increasing your fan speed, yes your core should be cooler as is transferring the heat quicker to the heatsink - and could be getting a lot more that they you release on stock fan profile - bit like getting a bigger plate of food with a tiny fork and then someone dumps another massive plate afterwards and that tiny fork is trying to spoon the **** out of it.... lol
True increasing your fan speed, yes your core should be cooler as is transferring the heat quicker to the heatsink - and could be getting a lot more that they you release on stock fan profile - bit like getting a bigger plate of food with a tiny fork and then someone dumps another massive plate afterwards and that tiny fork is trying to spoon the **** out of it.... lol
you are saying its cooling it too well?? keep taking the tablets bro
Soldato
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if more heat is being conducted almost 50% quicker then it was be default and being cooled down like it was under stock- in theory yes. basic thermal dynamics at GSCE standard ...
but true, cards should auto ramp up fans with the core heat - but those are two completely different things core temp and heatsink temp .
I have had once issue in the past with liquid metal on GPU's, not enough was used for contact, was fine up to a certain point and then temps would spike up and PC would shut down . But again OP has tried repeated times going back and forth with paste and guessing contact was fine by the sounds of it
I have +60 on the core and +350 on the memory, Been using Kryonaut all last night with no issues saw a max temp of 71 under load, I took my overclock off and it done the same crashing on games, but I can't remember if I put the power limit up etc.
I was very cautious when putting it on however it's working fine with the Kryonaut so I assume I did not put it somewhere that's not intended ( I think)
My games were just crashing back to the desktop the PC itself was not crashing, I have asked EVGA what the material of the heatsink is the part that attaches to the die itself and they have said it's a Nickel/Aluminum alloy material, Would liquid metal be fine on this ? I know you're not meant to on straight up aluminum.
I ment the conductonaut, and if it gets into contact with ANYTHING Aluminium it will forever change its structure with the Aluminium eventually just crumbling away.
However i really doubt the die area on the heatsink is aluminium, unless they really cheaped out it should be a nickel/copper spreader.
Soldato
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liquid metal and Aluminium are a no go! but not sure with being plated . had it been bare aluminum you might of struggled to get the heatsink off . Believe its on Thermals site stated no Aluminum . Normally only deal with Gigabyte cards being all Copper based - believe had no issues with Strix when i did mine as well.
No idea how well EVGA plates there product - or shall we say the factory in china making it
Kryonaut isn't conductive like Conduct is!!!!!
text taken from website
"
No idea how well EVGA plates there product - or shall we say the factory in china making it
Kryonaut isn't conductive like Conduct is!!!!!
text taken from website
"
- applicable with aluminum (warning is for Conductonaut only!)"
"Note: Conductonaut thermal grease must not be used with aluminum heatsinks!"
I've just sent a message to EVGA asking what the material is exactly, Could this potentially be an issue even if I have cleaned it off?
It depends how you cleaned it off, your best using vinegar as its an acid, this will dilute it down and clean the residue, alcohol based cleaners will just smear it about as its not soluble in anything other than acid, don't use anything alkaline based as it just causes a further reaction.
To be honest i think its madness that gallium based tim's are sold as mainstream consumer products, its not the easiest substance to work with and without care can destroy cpu's motherboards and gpu's. It needs to be in a section for extreme overclocking that way the average joe doesn't confuse it with traditional thermal pastes.
You all need to man up to at least A Level standards on these boardsPreferably Degree level
Thank you for contacting Technical Support.
The heat sink used on the cooling system is a Nickel coated Aluminium alloy.
We do recommend to use of liquid metal compound on GPU.
That is the message I received from EVGA.. I guess i'm good?
I think they meant do not recommend... I would not recommend it for ANY application other than under the IHS of your CPU where it is small and better contained.
Over time it will mark even copper permanently, it's also conductive so the most likely scenario if you think logically is that you have a short created where your heatsink touches other metal or it's escaping out the edges. It's also thinner and hard to work with on a larger area, then it's mounted facedown not like your CPU. It's not very nice stuff and for that application a decent non conducting TIM is surely preferable...
Are you mental? Put vinegar on your 1080ti... or just wipe it off with a dry cloth then use a proper citrus based TIM cleaner.
@Gibbo it really could use some warnings as it's potentially very damaging if used like TIM...
Over time it will mark even copper permanently, it's also conductive so the most likely scenario if you think logically is that you have a short created where your heatsink touches other metal or it's escaping out the edges. It's also thinner and hard to work with on a larger area, then it's mounted facedown not like your CPU. It's not very nice stuff and for that application a decent non conducting TIM is surely preferable...
Are you mental? Put vinegar on your 1080ti... or just wipe it off with a dry cloth then use a proper citrus based TIM cleaner.
@Gibbo it really could use some warnings as it's potentially very damaging if used like TIM...
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i use clu on mine no issues, EK block though, defo made a difference