Will Samsung B-die fix my issue? Asus prime X470-pro + R5 3600

M4xson

M4xson

M4xson

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Ideally when I turn my PC on in the morning the GPU fan only spins for an instant before the screen wakes and the PC boots quickly. This is what my GTX960 behaved like in my old PC. I built a new PC with the same graphics card and the GPU fan tends to spin loudly for a long time before the screen comes on and this could wake my wife or possibly the neighbours.

I have an ASUS Prime X470-pro updated to the newest BIOS, a R5 3600 cpu, 16gb 3200 ballistix LT sport (micron E die according to thaiphoon) and a Strix GTX960. I've asked around some forums and watched some youtube and read some guides and tried various settings. The only thing that affects this is changing the memory settings. If I load optimised default settings in the BIOS it will set the RAM to run at 2400 and the GPU fan will spin fast for 8 seconds every POST but it will boot to windows every time. Activating DOCP with everything else on default/auto makes my PC fail to POST at all sometimes.

I've found the 1usmus Ryzen DRAM calculator and using the latest version 1.7.3 safe settings and some experimentation I've got the PC to boot reliably at 3200, 3400 and 3600 speeds. If I turn the computer off from windows and turn on without turning off at the wall, my PC will boot very fast with the GPU fan only spinning for an instant the screen comes on. If I turn it off and switch off at the wall the next boot will have the loud GPU period of slow POST. These are the settings I'm using:


It doesn't look like there is a setting or combination of BIOS settings that can fix this 8 seconds of GPU fan whine. Am I flogging a dead horse with this reluctant Ballistix kit? It's good that it can run at 3600 and I've heard these kits can do 3800 but this POST issue seems like the quality isn't really that good.
 
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I'm curios why your timings are all empty. Have you imported the timings form taiphoon burner?

I think I know what you've done and am not sure if this is a bug or not.

You've imported the timings form the taiphoon burner than chosen the DRAM PCB revision which has then reverted all the timings to 0. Am I correct?

What I did was import the timings set all the settings but didn't change the pcb revision from what it defaults to which is manual.

Try that.
 
opethdisciple said:
I'm curios why your timings are all empty. Have you imported the timings form taiphoon burner?

I think I know what you've done and am not sure if this is a bug or not.

You've imported the timings form the taiphoon burner than chosen the DRAM PCB revision which has then reverted all the timings to 0. Am I correct?

What I did was import the timings set all the settings but didn't change the pcb revision from what it defaults to which is manual.

Try that.
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Previously I have used the calculator that way, imported the timings from thaiphoon and then 'calculate safe' and that got me some settings. With the new version since 1.7.1 it works differently and you can skip the import timings step and go straight to clicking calculate safe. This gets me settings that boot more reliably than the old version. This is written by the author of the calculator, 1usmus (Yuri Bubliy):

https://wccftech.com/dram-calculator-for-ryzen-1-7-1-download/

1.7.1 has deleted the R-XMP button (one extra user action). Now the order is as follows:

1) The user selects the settings that match his system.

2) The user presses the "Calculate SAFE" or "Calculate FAST" button and that is it.

The program selects the SPD profile itself relative to the selected DRAM PCB Revision parameter. The DRAM PCB Revision parameter is essentially new and means a PCB revision that has RAM. It is very easy to visually determine the PCB revision:
Click to expand...

Could my boot issue be cured by changing to a better Samsung B-die based kit?
 
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I've read that Samsung b-die is the most reliable RAM for Ryzen and I'm at the point where I want to try some. It may seem unnecessary to buy overclocking kit when I don't think I'll overclock that much but it's worth it to me to have fast and reliable boot up. These kits are 2 x the price of my Ballistix so I hope it's going to fix this issue.

I like these kits as they actually say b-die in the details: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/pc-components/memory/ddr4?cksuppliers=432&cktab=0&spage=1&ssort=3

i like the 3600 cl14 ripped version, alternatively buildzoid rates these patriot 4000 c19 kits and says they are b-die, are they definitely?

my basket at overclockers uk:
Total: £277.68 (includes shipping: £8.70)

​

Which kit would you choose for a fast booting system?
 
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Firstly use the fast timings. Secondly have a look at the 1.7.0 dram calc to see if it gives you better timings.

I only input primary and secondary timings and set the dram voltage.

At present your voltage of 1.35v is probably too low. See what the dram calc tells you and go from there.

First find what your max FCLK is. Do you even know what your CPU can do for the FCLK?

You take the FCLK and * 2 to be your dram speed.
 
opethdisciple said:
Firstly use the fast timings. Secondly have a look at the 1.7.0 dram calc to see if it gives you better timings.

I only input primary and secondary timings and set the dram voltage.

At present your voltage of 1.35v is probably too low. See what the dram calc tells you and go from there.
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I did previously use version 1.7.0. I tried the fast timings and I did just try entering the primary and secondary timings and the voltage and that gave me a system that wouldn't boot reliably. I tried loosening the timings. I tried upping the voltage and that made it less likely to boot. It seems my kit doesn't like voltage. I've read that Micron E-die doesn't like that much voltage, unlike Samsung B-die kits like yours.

That was a few months ago and I'd had enough of spending hours tinkering in the BIOS for no apparent gain and just wanted to use my computer so I set it to the defaults which runs the memory at 2400 and I was using it like that. My wife asked me why my new computer is so noisy when I turn it on and it ****** me off explaining that it's not working properly. :/ Then recently I decided to try tinkering again, the new version calculator came out and settings from that work better but it still doesn't boot fast.

First find what your max FCLK is. Do you even know what your CPU can do for the FCLK?

You take the FCLK and * 2 to be your dram speed.
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My CPU does 1800 fine, 1900 might be pushing it too far and the RAM does 3600 although the increase in voltage needed makes the CPU hotter so I probably want to run it at 1700/3400.

Thanks for the advice with the RAM settings. I think I've had it with this Ballistix RAM kit though and I want to change it out. The ripped kit looks good and guaranteed b-die so I'm getting that.
 
M4xson said:
I did previously use version 1.7.0. I tried the fast timings and I did just try entering the primary and secondary timings and the voltage and that gave me a system that wouldn't boot reliably. I tried loosening the timings. I tried upping the voltage and that made it less likely to boot. It seems my kit doesn't like voltage. I've read that Micron E-die doesn't like that much voltage, unlike Samsung B-die kits like yours.

That was a few months ago and I'd had enough of spending hours tinkering in the BIOS for no apparent gain and just wanted to use my computer so I set it to the defaults which runs the memory at 2400 and I was using it like that. My wife asked me why my new computer is so noisy when I turn it on and it ****** me off explaining that it's not working properly. :/ Then recently I decided to try tinkering again, the new version calculator came out and settings from that work better but it still doesn't boot fast.


My CPU does 1800 fine, 1900 might be pushing it too far and the RAM does 3600 although the increase in voltage needed makes the CPU hotter so I probably want to run it at 1700/3400.

Thanks for the advice with the RAM settings. I think I've had it with this Ballistix RAM kit though and I want to change it out. The ripped kit looks good and guaranteed b-die so I'm getting that.
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In my experience samsung b-die or nanya a-die just work. I bought a rgb 3200 nanya kit from china for £35 and paired it with a 2700x and it literally went straight in on docp on my super cheap b450 asrock.

It was actually easier to set up than the 64gb of b-die im using with my threadripper rig. Weirdly the nanya a die can even be set at 3466 without any issues at all on boot.
 
I'm pretty sure cold booting a system will always give you fan noise for a set amount of time, more so on AMD.

If you can't run your RAM at DOCP then it's simply faulty. If you want to make absolutely sure it's a RAM fault, go to your timings page in the BIOS and make sure gear down mode is enabled AND that 2T is set. If that still fails to post at advertised speeds and voltages, return them for the B-Die.
 
Vince said:
In my experience samsung b-die or nanya a-die just work. I bought a rgb 3200 nanya kit from china for £35 and paired it with a 2700x and it literally went straight in on docp on my super cheap b450 asrock.

It was actually easier to set up than the 64gb of b-die im using with my threadripper rig. Weirdly the nanya a die can even be set at 3466 without any issues at all on boot.
Click to expand...

First time I've heard of Nanya a-die!
 
M4xson said:
First time I've heard of Nanya a-die!
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for £35 for 16gb of RGB you take what you get, I was super surprised just how good this nanya a-die is. Overclocks very well indeed and stock I didn't need to touch anything at all I ended up buying a few kits and gave one to my buddy, same deal straight in at the correct speeds on his 2700x that he was also building for his wife:



This is on a board i paid £42 for (b450m-hdv) im actually running it 3200 c14 at the moment in the mrs machine.
 
I had memory issues trying to run B die and Hynix E die on the latest bios abba 1.0.0.4 on my Msi X470 board, reading into it lots of people have had issues with this agesa release. I had to roll back 2 bios revisions to 1.0.0.3 ab to get ram to run reliably and stable and to remove cold boot issues. If you can try rolling back to an earlier bios.
 
FiremanSam said:
I had memory issues trying to run B die and Hynix E die on the latest bios abba 1.0.0.4 on my Msi X470 board, reading into it lots of people have had issues with this agesa release. I had to roll back 2 bios revisions to 1.0.0.3 ab to get ram to run reliably and stable and to remove cold boot issues. If you can try rolling back to an earlier bios.
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I've not heard of this before. Everyone normally says get the newest BIOS.
 
So I did get some Team Ripped edition B-die but it didn't fix the issue. After clearing cmos and activating DOCP got me a PC that wouldn't boot reliably again. I got it booting reliably after some tweaking of memory settings in the BIOS but sill with the GPU fan spin up during POST. Then with the hot weather recently it would sometimes fail to boot, getting stuck with the GPU fan fast and loud and the CPU fan stopped until the reset button was pressed. Not sure why hot weather would cause this
 
M4xson said:
So I did get some Team Ripped edition B-die but it didn't fix the issue. After clearing cmos and activating DOCP got me a PC that wouldn't boot reliably again. I got it booting reliably after some tweaking of memory settings in the BIOS but sill with the GPU fan spin up during POST. Then with the hot weather recently it would sometimes fail to boot, getting stuck with the GPU fan fast and loud and the CPU fan stopped until the reset button was pressed. Not sure why hot weather would cause this
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You flashed to the latest bios?
 
M4xson said:
Yes I have now and it's booting reliably after just enabling DOCP with no further tweaking. Now I'm wondering if it's worth the time manually tuning the RAM.
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Generally yes.

Easy way to do it is export your timings form typhoon burner. Import them in to the dram calc. Choose the appropriate settings on the left hand side and click fast.

Put the primary and secondary timings in to your bios.

Now for me the only voltage I tweak is dram voltage. I leave all over volts as default and it works for me.

So you can try that.

For example the dram calc suggests 1.45v (bdie) but it takes 1.47v to be stable. So don't worry if it's unstable at the voltage it suggests for dram voltage. Just add a little bit until you get stable.

Try that and you should be good.

Remember that you have to also set your FLCK to half your dram speed. So if you are running 3600MHz ram FCLK is set to 1800MHz etc...
 
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