Windows OBD2 software?
- Thread starter -Mike-
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What manufacturers are you looking to work on? From experience there isn't much free Obd (or even cheap) software worth having, apart from multi ecu scan which covers fiat and Alfa Romeo. I paid about £150 for auto enginuity but I also wanted the Ford add-on package because it offered key programing and several other functions that were only previously available via the genuine Ford FDS system that I used as technician.
Even the generic part of auto enginuity isn't that great past reading PCM codes and a few data PIDS, things like abs and body modules can only be accessed if you buy a manufacturer specific add-on
Even the generic part of auto enginuity isn't that great past reading PCM codes and a few data PIDS, things like abs and body modules can only be accessed if you buy a manufacturer specific add-on
Hello old friend, we meet again 
Firstly - thanks for the reply! All I want to log is EGR error. I was doing so with my phone and torque which showed the error to be as much as -92% and as high as 68%. Problem is my el cheapo Bluetooth obd adapater broke. Now I'm left with a usb obd2 cable and obviously vcds (purchased when I had my bora) is no good for Honda!
Now you'll crucify me for this as I am by all accounts an amateur, but I want to see if its continually out, as I believe the EGR may be coked up in rubbish and needing a clean. Symptoms - Laggy and feels down on power.
Firstly - thanks for the reply! All I want to log is EGR error. I was doing so with my phone and torque which showed the error to be as much as -92% and as high as 68%. Problem is my el cheapo Bluetooth obd adapater broke. Now I'm left with a usb obd2 cable and obviously vcds (purchased when I had my bora) is no good for Honda!
Now you'll crucify me for this as I am by all accounts an amateur, but I want to see if its continually out, as I believe the EGR may be coked up in rubbish and needing a clean. Symptoms - Laggy and feels down on power.
I want to see if its definitely misbehaving as I'll need to order gaskets to do it.
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Hello old friend, we meet again
Besides the odd bit of mild rib poking, I do try to help in a (hopefully) more in-depth way so that you can make a more complete diagnosis. On a scale of about 0-5, you're a 1.5 going by all the other things you should have checked out in the other thread. I was slightly unkind as what you did there is actually a small step up from a 'netforum part swapper
. I might be able to help you more if you gave me the exact vehicle model & year, if I can find the relevant info I will tell you the other things I personally would look for that may have influence on your diagnosis.
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You should be able to rule out most EGR valves by disconnecting them, the default position is closed AFAIK. All that could happen is lost boost or inlet vacuum from the inlet in to the exhaust system, this would be due to the EGR being open under throttle. It shouldn't be
Depending on what the ECU makes of all this, I'd look to see if the wastgate is maybe dumping boost for some reason with the EGR disconnected (if it's a turbo).
I need to know more about the car & how it's EGR system operates as there is lots of variables to consider!
Depending on what the ECU makes of all this, I'd look to see if the wastgate is maybe dumping boost for some reason with the EGR disconnected (if it's a turbo).
I need to know more about the car & how it's EGR system operates as there is lots of variables to consider!
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Besides the odd bit of mild rib poking, I do try to help in a (hopefully) more in-depth way so that you can make a more complete diagnosis. On a scale of about 0-5, you're a 1.5 going by all the other things you should have checked out in the other thread. I was slightly unkind as what you did there is actually a small step up from a 'netforum part swapper
I might be able to help you more if you gave me the exact vehicle model & year, if I can find the relevant info I will tell you the other things I personally would look for that may have influence on your diagnosis.
Its a 2008 civic I-CTDI 2.2, currently has 40k on the clock, only had 33 when I got it four months ago so I have a feeling its been a town car previously and from reading threads on the civic owners forum the egr does gunk up pretty bad on these.
I need to take a look / log maf amongst other things! It genuinely feels more lively when cold (no I don't beat it cold) but it picks up much nicer and the EGR is shut permanently whilst cold.
Thanks for your time mate
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Is their a vacuum hose on top of it? It looks like there is to me, if so detach it and stick it somewhere safe & see if that makes any difference. A solenoid at the other end of the vac pipe allows vacuum from your vacuum pump to open the valve, which should be on overrun or very slightly when cruising, certainly not under any reasonably brisk form of acceleration. AFAIK it should never be open either at idle.
You should be able to open the valve by removing the hose at the solenoid end and using a vacuum pump, or by sucking on the pipe if you don't have one of those - I don't really expect you to have one tbh. On petrol cars operating the EGR valve at idle bogs the idle down or even stalls the engine, I can't remember what happens to a idling diesel as it's been a long time since I really messed with one.
Messing with it will likely cause error codes so just be aware that they'd need to be cleared.
You should be able to open the valve by removing the hose at the solenoid end and using a vacuum pump, or by sucking on the pipe if you don't have one of those - I don't really expect you to have one tbh. On petrol cars operating the EGR valve at idle bogs the idle down or even stalls the engine, I can't remember what happens to a idling diesel as it's been a long time since I really messed with one.
Messing with it will likely cause error codes so just be aware that they'd need to be cleared.
Matteh -
I logged the run from work to home, here is a small segment of EGR requested vs Error :
And another section
Blue is requested EGR, red is error.
Not sure if this helps. I can't get it in my head whether + error means too much egr opening or too little though! Logic says the first?
I logged the run from work to home, here is a small segment of EGR requested vs Error :
Blue is requested EGR, red is error.
Not sure if this helps. I can't get it in my head whether + error means too much egr opening or too little though! Logic says the first?
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You want to log more than one data stream, I'd be looking at throttle position, turbo boost & the EGR to see if it's being commanded open when you put you foot down - it shouldn't be open when accelerating otherwise you'll be loosing boost pressure into the exhaust - like an extra waste gate.
As I said above, a simple thing is to try and rule the EGR out altogether by disabling it, I am 99% certain default position would be off they they are sprung shut on many cars. some have a stepper motor but *I think* yours runs off vacuum.
As I said above, a simple thing is to try and rule the EGR out altogether by disabling it, I am 99% certain default position would be off they they are sprung shut on many cars. some have a stepper motor but *I think* yours runs off vacuum.
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From the data, afaics it looks o.k., the egr is commanded off as your boost pressure rises. Without a means to check to see if the solenoid is actually getting a voltage (or switched earth) trigger from the ECU when you're putting your foot down (I would hook up a scope on the EGR solenoid and the TPS) it's going to be tricky to diagnose off scan tool data. A scope lets you see if it really is sticking open or being commanded open when it shouldn't be.
For you I can only really say to try my previous suggestion, the rudimentary method of disconnecting the EGR and seeing if it makes a difference. A better way would be to trace the vacuum hose back to the solenoid and disconnecting the electrical wiring plug. The ECU would create a vacuum leak by commanding the EGR open if the pipe's disconnected, but seeing as the car is a diesel, it shouldn't matter much as the vacuum is provided by a separate pump and not from negative inlet manifold pressure. On a petrol, a vacuum leak would cause running issues so the pipe would have to be clamped .
For you I can only really say to try my previous suggestion, the rudimentary method of disconnecting the EGR and seeing if it makes a difference. A better way would be to trace the vacuum hose back to the solenoid and disconnecting the electrical wiring plug. The ECU would create a vacuum leak by commanding the EGR open if the pipe's disconnected, but seeing as the car is a diesel, it shouldn't matter much as the vacuum is provided by a separate pump and not from negative inlet manifold pressure. On a petrol, a vacuum leak would cause running issues so the pipe would have to be clamped .
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Ah, just thought - take a look at the multiplug on the EGR solenoid, you'll need to backprobe it when the engine is idling, both pin connections. Tell me the voltage on both pins (there should be two). Both should read battery voltage at idle, It would read 0v on the earth pin if it were fully open. if you have, say 13.8v on one and 11v on the other, it's partially stuck open.