New Open Loop Build - Hot GPU (4090 FE)

[therealdippy]

Building on the comments about fin area, also don't overlook airflow. You need that cooler ambient air to flow through the case, especially if some of it is coming through a rad. If there is clutter within a case then air won't flow as well. It's one of the reasons I chose the HW labs rad for intake - it has a lower fin density than most rads (and certainly my exhaust rads) so doesn't restrict airflow too much.

 

[Mcnumpty2323]

There's some completed builds
You can have a look at
To get ideas
In this thread on page 6 I think

Phanteks NV7 (+D30 120 fans)

Phanteks announced the NV7 at CES 2023. Out February, anyone here tempted? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCChwV5L5tA The new fans in question out March. Based on the Phanteks T-30's. They can be daisy chained like the Lian Li Uni fans. They are available in two skus exhaust and intake so...

forums.overclockers.co.uk

May also be some in project/build logs section
And watercooled gallery section

Must admit was seriously tempted
By the nv7 or upcoming nv9
And of course the d30 fans
But having spent a load at Xmas on my build
Just couldn't justify it

 

[Jay85]

Your water temps are way too high, not enough capacity to cool those components. You'll need at least another 360mm in there at a minimum to drop those temps significantly.

I'd say on a average loop with 2 x 360 rads your water temps shouldn't be higher than 35/36c with an ambient of 21c.

 

[bthitman]

UPDATE -> I think the new (re) build is coming along! The NV7 case is huge inside! I have a delivery arriving today: 2 more 360 44mm thick rads. (the one in the pic is a 360x30mm) Reservoir, tubing. Once I get the rads and fans and reservoir in situ, I can then assess exactly what fittings I'll need (I made the mistake last time of 'picturing the loop in my head' and buying a bunch of fittings that never worked, or didn't need. Then had to buy the right ones! )

For sure better to scale things back for my first (well, second now) open loop build. Instead of trying to be brave and creative and 'make things work' in a case that didn't suit the cooling needs of my hardware.

Thanks again for the direction and guidance! Will post pics as the build progresses.

https://flic.kr/p/2oQNBjP

 

[bthitman]

Well, it's all built up finally!! (Pictures to follow soon) For sure there are some good things and not so good, and things i would do differently, but happier with this build! (compared to the cramped under-cooled Y40 case build...) Initial tests look good. Ran a quick stress test on the GPU, and it topped out at 50-52, with hot spots about 7 degrees hotter. And water temp around 32-34.

One concern, and maybe people have experience with this? In the previous build, I was using a Corsair XD5 reservoir / pump (With a D5 pump). Now I have an EKWB FLT240 reservoir / pump (also with a D5)

With the Corsair, I could run the pump down to 30% with no issues. With the EKWB, if I set the pump to run at anything under 80%, it makes a lot of 'rattling' noises. If I can figure out a way to upload a video of it, I will!

Just wondering if the pump is defective? Or if it's the orientation of the pump to the tank? (when comparing the XD5 to the FLT240)

 

[Mcnumpty2323]

Never used a FLT
But got a distro with d5 pump
It doesn't do that

 

[Drumroll]

Unless there’s air trapped somewhere, shouldn’t do that. Always had my D5s in the past at 40-50%. Not every pump will be quieter at the same rpm. Is all about trial and error, until you find the sweet spot for your D5. Also, once you’re happy with the noise/flow rate, no point setting it to go down to 100%. Unless flow rate is too low, increasing it won’t return much better performance, but up and down rpm will be annoying.

 

[Mcnumpty2323]

Yeah I just set mine to a
Constant rpm

 

[bthitman]

Thanks both. Yes, i would like to set it to a fixed RPM and leave it (and just change fan speed if necessary to maintain water temp). However, right now the only option i have is FLAT OUT My flow meter (Barrow Tech) says it's at 5.1 L/min. Seems high, and i would like it to be a bit slower, to keep the water in the rads longer for cooling.

99% sure there is no air. I spent a long time shaking the rig, and tilting it in all directions (and lots of air came out during all that!) I'll do some more now.

It is a B-Grade FLT240 - so maybe it was returned damaged?

(and no, i have never run the pump without water! )

 

[Mcnumpty2323]

Flat out
Assuming it's not too noisy
Should be fine
It's a closed loop
The flow can't really be too fast
Just means it reaches next radiator sooner
The loop will equalise temperature after been
Running for a while
Too slow will affect temperature
So keeping it in the radiator too long
Is detrimental to temperature
As long as have good flow and of course fans
Can't really have too fast flow

At least that's how my brain
Works it out lol
Happy to be corrected

 

[Gavster]

I didn`t find much difference between 50% and 100% temp wise so I stuck to 50% as it`s more quiet and draws less power.

 

[Jay85]

Well, it's all built up finally!! (Pictures to follow soon) For sure there are some good things and not so good, and things i would do differently, but happier with this build! (compared to the cramped under-cooled Y40 case build...) Initial tests look good. Ran a quick stress test on the GPU, and it topped out at 50-52, with hot spots about 7 degrees hotter. And water temp around 32-34.

One concern, and maybe people have experience with this? In the previous build, I was using a Corsair XD5 reservoir / pump (With a D5 pump). Now I have an EKWB FLT240 reservoir / pump (also with a D5)

With the Corsair, I could run the pump down to 30% with no issues. With the EKWB, if I set the pump to run at anything under 80%, it makes a lot of 'rattling' noises. If I can figure out a way to upload a video of it, I will!

Just wondering if the pump is defective? Or if it's the orientation of the pump to the tank? (when comparing the XD5 to the FLT240)

Never had this issue with them though i suspect it might be trapped air bubbles. I trial tested a FLT 120 with a DDC pump and it made similar rattling noises but that was down to an air pocket which i fixed by tilting the radiator a few times to release the airpocket and adjusting the speed up and down.

The other thing you could check is on the D5 side, take the top part off where it spins on the bearing and see if that white bearing is solid or spinning freely? It should be on there solid. If you dont know what i mean i can show you a video of my broken one,

 

[therealdippy]

Thanks both. Yes, i would like to set it to a fixed RPM and leave it (and just change fan speed if necessary to maintain water temp). However, right now the only option i have is FLAT OUT My flow meter (Barrow Tech) says it's at 5.1 L/min. Seems high, and i would like it to be a bit slower, to keep the water in the rads longer for cooling.

99% sure there is no air. I spent a long time shaking the rig, and tilting it in all directions (and lots of air came out during all that!) I'll do some more now.

It is a B-Grade FLT240 - so maybe it was returned damaged?

(and no, i have never run the pump without water! )

FYI (may not help) I have a dual pump PC. I did this because the product was available, the redundancy mitigated single pump failure, and I wanted a low noise PC so I can run them at lower rpm than a single. Most of the time they are running at 30% (around 1,300rpm) which produces about 1 litre/min flow. The BIOS will ramp up the speed with water temperature to around 45% (2,300rpm) and just over 2 litres/min. The pumps can achieve 5 litres/min but they are noisier than I want, and the effect on water temperature for a given fan speed was limited. For certain the rad airflow is hugely more important for cooling than the water flow rate. I can note that my pump noise was actually not so much the pumps themselves but the vibration from them. This was a bit annoying because I had put thought and effort into dampening in the pump mounting. Maybe the dual pump module has worse vibration than would be expected from 2 pumps because of the interference patterns (relying on what I learnt at Uni over 30 years ago).

 

[Mcnumpty2323]

yeah at certain rpm
my d5 pump res combo would resonate
even though was really well dampened
turning it up or down a bit stopped it
doesnt seem to happen
on my d5 distro for some reason

 

[bthitman]

EK WaterBlock FLT 240 - D5 Pump Rattle

Picked up a B-Grade EKWB FLT 240 D5 pump / reservoir and when I run the pump at anything less than 100%, it rattles.

youtube.com

Never had this issue with them though i suspect it might be trapped air bubbles. I trial tested a FLT 120 with a DDC pump and it made similar rattling noises but that was down to an air pocket which i fixed by tilting the radiator a few times to release the airpocket and adjusting the speed up and down.

The other thing you could check is on the D5 side, take the top part off where it spins on the bearing and see if that white bearing is solid or spinning freely? It should be on there solid. If you dont know what i mean i can show you a video of my broken one,

Lots of great information from everyone. Appreciate it!
Yes, if you have a link to a video, that would help. I think I know what you mean, but would be good to confirm with a video.

@Mcnumpty2323 -> Maybe it's dampening? The FLT 240 is spaced off the chassis using plastic standoffs. But it *really* sounds like internal rattling, rather than resonance.

I put a video up on YouTube that hopefully illustrates the noise, at 60% pump speed

 

[Jay85]

EK WaterBlock FLT 240 - D5 Pump Rattle

Picked up a B-Grade EKWB FLT 240 D5 pump / reservoir and when I run the pump at anything less than 100%, it rattles.

youtube.com

Lots of great information from everyone. Appreciate it!
Yes, if you have a link to a video, that would help. I think I know what you mean, but would be good to confirm with a video.

@Mcnumpty2323 -> Maybe it's dampening? The FLT 240 is spaced off the chassis using plastic standoffs. But it *really* sounds like internal rattling, rather than resonance.

I put a video up on YouTube that hopefully illustrates the noise, at 60% pump speed

Will get something together for you tonight.

 

[bthitman]

Just a written update for now. I am waiting for my custom 12VHPWR cable to arrive, and then i will post some pics!

Ordered a new FLT240, and new temp sensor (it was reading N/A in the BIOS). They arrived, i spent a lot of time draining, pulling out parts, re-fitting, filling, bleeding air ... (so much effort in water cooling! Crazy! (but worth it))

I can run the pump at any speed, and no rattling! Excellent. And the temp sensor works too, so now i can control the pump speed off that. Nice.

i think i have a pretty decent fan profile set up, but still tweaking a bit. Depending on the ambient temp in the room, the coolant is between 27 and 31. At load, the GPU hits about 52, and water about 32-37 (depending on ambient)

The worst part is that i already have ideas of what i want to change!! (facepalm) in terms of aesthetics. crazy hobby..

 

[Jupiter]

Following, nice idea

 

[bthitman]

Hello again! It took quite a while to get the last component (the custom ModCable 12VHPWR). Was going to embed all the images, but there are quite a few So just adding a couple, and a link to the rest. FYI - the 'album' seems to show less photos than there are. So click on one, and then advance through the roll to see them all.

Photostream of Finished Build

I'm doing a PC PartPicker list as well, with all the little bits and pieces, but the big stuff is:

• ASUS ROG Strix X670E-A
• AMD 5800X3D
• Corsair Vengance 32 GB DDR5 6000
• NVidia 4090 FW
• MSI 1000W PCIe5 PSU
• Phanteks NV7 Case
• EKWB P360 X-Flow (x2) 44mm rads
• Hardware Labs 360 (x1) 30mm rad
• 9x Lian Li AL 120 v2 fans
• Barrow Flow / Temperature metre

Again, can't thank the group enough for the help along the way! It's been emotional . I already have some ideas for what i would like to do next. And yes, i am bummed that there is a scratch on the tube on the inlet side of the GPU

https://flic.kr/p/2oY7BFk

https://flic.kr/p/2oY8Gn3

https://flic.kr/p/2oY8Gjc

 

[Mcnumpty2323]

Firstly
The difference in temperatures
Obviously tells you
That you did it right this time

Though your wallet is probably hurting

Not sure if there's any way to hide
The scratch
Experiment with a spare bit of Tubing
Paint on some of the coolant?
And let it dry?
Or put some coolant on paper towel
And rub it into the scratch?

That spare space below the top radiator
Is begging for something
A sensor screen maybe

Or some sort of black or coolant blue coloured graphics
Pretty sure you could get something made
In stick on vinyl

You've done a great job
So forgive any minor criticism
The tube from bottom rad to flow meter
Looks out of line

I like you put the drain point off the
Bottom radiator
That's usually what I do
And why multiport radiators are so useful
just a bit worried
That part protruding from the rear so far
Looks like an accident waiting to happen
Just the sort of thing my cats would decide to sit on lol

Nice use of x flow/crossflow radiators
Less tubing runs needed

But overall great job
And welcome to the wallet draining world
Of custom watercooling lol

Ps.
@davido_labido may have a better idea how
To remove/hide the scratch