Project Dianoga

ALXAndy · 30 Jan 2018 at 19:20

Realised earlier I had no antenna for the WIFI or Bluetooth. This is important, as I can't run it on a network cable at my mum's place.

£3. That ought to do it

I only want the plate and antennas.

ALXAndy · 31 Jan 2018 at 17:38

Behold ! the desk top computer lol

All wired up, press the power button and pray.. Annnnnnd...

And I can breathe again. This is ruddy annoying, and, you can't disable it in bios either.

So I need to do some research on that.

Then I ran into a couple of issues. Firstly I was happily installing all of the drivers and etc and I got to the last one and it said "You can not install this driver on X86 Windows". I was like eh? da fuq. Turns out that Windows assumed I wanted the X86 version on there so I had to bloody start all over again. Annoying. Then, once the mobo drivers were all installed it was acting funny. I rebooted and after the Windows logo it went to a black screen. I booted into safe mode, which was where I noticed a conflicting device in Device Manager. It was the Intel Turbo Boost 3.0 driver. After a lot of head scratching (I initially disabled it and then the rig behaved) I realised that this Xeon does not support ITB 3.0. So all I had to do was uninstall the driver.

Then it was off to Dell, pop in the serial number for the rig, and.

And then installed all of the drivers again. Which worked. I am typing this from the rig

Kneel at the feet of my "Jar of bolts" cooler.

Thankfully it has that gummy sticky paste on, so literally stuck to the CPU without any retention at all. The bolts are just so that it stays there. Temps weren't that bad though, with idle at 40c.

I did some more fiddling and it seems it boosts to 2.4ghz on all ten cores. This yields a score of 1300 dead on in CB but I am not done yet. I started tweaking the bus and managed 102.5 on my first attempt, so I know I can squeeze another 50mhz or so out of it.

Very happy ! I also spent about three hours getting the old glue off of the Dominator sinks, then taking off the labels (much white spirit and scraping needed, god Corsair use good quality glue !) and then putting on my own labels, fitting and etc. The RAM is done but I can't get pics of it now. Looks really nice though

Cenedd · 31 Jan 2018 at 19:58

Usually you can tell it to ignore some/all of the fan inputs in the bios. If you can't, you can obviously plug a fan into o e of the headers but presumably had you wanted to do that, you'd already have done so. You've got a PowerAdjust in there so you can plug a 3 pin fan cable into the rpm/alarm header on it and plug that into the motherboard CPU fan header. If configured to do so, it'll generate a tacho signal so the motherboard thinks there's a fan attached. The idea behind it is that you can set alarm conditions (and warning conditions, but that's another topic) such as no tacho detected from the pump (and hence likely it running) or a temperature threshold. In the alarm state, it can be configured to stop outputting the tacho signal to the motherboard's CPU fan header and if the bios offers the option, it can shut down the PC. In your case, it's simply keeping the bios quiet.

ALXAndy · 31 Jan 2018 at 21:10

Nah the Poweradjust is in the Triad dude. This is Dianoga...

I explained the fix in the email I just shot you, but basically it was a part of the "Halt on error" menu. Thank goodness it's not a 100% real Dell, or I would have been right up the swanny. It's an MSI underneath. I should now be set to start transferring it into the rig.

ALXAndy · 1 Feb 2018 at 11:43

Block extension came.

Note, very dirty from me handling it. Will clean it before it goes in.

And here is how the RAM ended up. I deliberated whether I should splatter DOMINATOR all over it, or go for the more plain look. Decided on the latter. One side is met green the other silver. I have put the RAM stickers on there so I know the model etc. Function over form in this case.

It was still a lot of work. I had to heat them up until they would take your skin off, then scrape at the glue. Luckily after my first burn I found a set of suede gloves I use for riding in, and they withheld the heat OK.

ALXAndy · 1 Feb 2018 at 13:13

Block cleaned and fitted.

ALXAndy · 1 Feb 2018 at 19:26

Teste sack

Before.

Look very closely at the bottom outlet on the WB, and how it connects to the rad using a butt load of chainguns.

What I now have is this.

I got the inlet in OK. I can't use the green 45 degs I bought. It just ain't happening. I am also faced with a massive issue. Due to the spacing in the G 1/4 holes on the WB I can not put a fitting of any sort in there. What I mean is, a proper fitting that you connect hose to. Due to the honking great hose the fittings are also honking great, and none will connect up next to the 45'. So, what do I do? well you can see the issue, and it is a pretty bloody massive one. Look at this pic.

Look closah.... Closah... DO YOU SEE? DO YOU SEE? (two movies there..)

Due to the board being quad channel (and thus two DIMM banks) and the fact the block is lower, and flipped upside down there is a massive space.

Now it was already suggested to me that I just use a hose and bend it. However, that will not work. It will kink. This stuff is a real Alan B.Stard. I also cannot use any fittings.. Or can I?!?!

The solution, after about an hour of feeling like it was never going to work. OK, so I need to basically do this when the new hose arrives.

IE - extend out the hose from the rad inlet, moving that black acetal 90' block over the CPU. And it will literally go right to line up with the outlet. However, I can't use a 19mm fitting because it won't go in the WB. So what to do? this. Basically.

One 5mm.

A 10mm, for Justin.

And then I ordered four of these.

Rotaries. I measured the spacing and it is basically smack on 30mm. So I am going to have to use those fittings to make a straight, solid pipe coming out of the block into the 90 deg box.

ALXAndy · 4 Feb 2018 at 12:39

OK, finally some progress.

The hose arrived yesterday. Late last night (I kinda got caught up with Fallout 4 for about seven hours yesterday) I decided to fit in the run off of the rad that will connect up to the outlet of the CPU block. I used the same technique I used before, heating up the tube to make it go back to being straight. After I found out that the rad was still half full of coolant (you gotta laugh when it's ******* down your sleeves and up your arms) I emptied it properly giving it a good blow job.

OK couple of things. 1. It sags a little (it would, it has some weight hanging off it) and 2. It isn't absolutely directly over the CPU hole. However, due to it now being a good two inches longer (that's what she said) it can now bend and flex a little.

I can't see it giving me too many problems now tbh.

So with any luck I will connect it up tomorrow if the fittings from OCUK arrive on time, and it will be pumping water at some point tomorrow arvo.

Oh yeah.. I also measured the distance between the block and 90 deg and it's 35mm. A nice even amount that should allow me to get it bob on. I forget what the rotaries are now (will go check in a mo) but the extensions are 5mm and 10mm. Knowing my luck I will end up using like bloody two of the six fittings I bought

Cenedd · 4 Feb 2018 at 15:39

Better than my usual which is using six of the two fittings I thought I'd need!

ALXAndy · 6 Feb 2018 at 18:56

All done and finished, thank heavens.

Just remind me never to buy XSPC rotaries again.

All four of the ones I bought did that until I took all lateral pressure off of them and flipped them around. Problem is with 19mm hose you are going to get lateral pressure whether you like it or not. Thankfully flipping it around (after draining it four times !) fixed the issue as I guess now all of the lateral pressure is on the straight pass through and not the rotary.