Twin Turbo "Black Edition"

orbitalwalsh · 8 May 2016 at 11:14

I do have a friend with a 3D printer, could always make shrouds to go over the Alphacool blocks, also have a two spare Turbo Shrouds

will keep if they ever make a Mitx card.. Which in guessing will be in 4GB flavours for space maybe ?

orbitalwalsh · 8 May 2016 at 14:09

Going to have to Mount the top fans using Rad threads and nuts.
Rubber fittings don't work with P400s thickness and hole space and normal screws don't bit into the rubber casing

Managed to get some DSLR shots for tomorrow

Snap off my phone for now

NoustieChris · 8 May 2016 at 14:28

Is there enough clearance for the mobo with that push pull 120 at the back?

orbitalwalsh · 8 May 2016 at 15:22

NoustieChris said:
Is there enough clearance for the mobo with that push pull 120 at the back?

I sure hope so

haha

No fancy io cover or heat sinks on the Gaming Carbon board so should be OK

orbitalwalsh · 9 May 2016 at 12:25

a nun would be proud of how tight this fit is ............

question now being how to line the furthest rad port to the inlet for on the block???? Might have to be a 90 facing down on the block and an angled twin 45 on the rad with some short tubing.

Hard tubing this part would solve the problem but lack the fittings

***small unrelated note- seems 1080 could hit end of June UK side***

Cenedd · 9 May 2016 at 13:06

Well, you've not made it easy for yourself there

It might actually be cheaper to buy the two fittings for hard tube than do it with soft fittings.

From the rad port nearest the block to the port at the top of the block?
Double-45 from the rad should get you round the corner. Otherwise extension and then 90°. From there a soft tube should arc down to a straight fitting on the block....I think!

Does that work? Difficult to tell without being able to screw stuff in and see what happens

orbitalwalsh · 9 May 2016 at 13:13

Cenedd said:
Well, you've not made it easy for yourself there

It might actually be cheaper to buy the two fittings for hard tube than do it with soft fittings.

From the rad port nearest the block to the port at the top of the block?
Double-45 from the rad should get you round the corner. Otherwise extension and then 90°. From there a soft tube should arc down to a straight fitting on the block....I think!

Does that work? Difficult to tell without being able to screw stuff in and see what happens

the inlet is in the middle of the Alphacool block. Top will go straight across to the port on the rad closest to the tray.

Been told the Push/Pull makes it looks a bit messy and tight in an already tight case.
might have to drop to just one fan. Having it pull cold air in would give best performance and more space to plumb, or have it in Push drawing in cold air again- but leaves the rad in same spot but no unattractive fan support on show....

choices. what do you lot think? either choices again is drawing cold air and expelling warm to the top fans.

Keep Push Pull - peformance but said to look clustered
Push - flush rad look
Pull - more room to plumb

Cenedd · 9 May 2016 at 14:07

From what I've read, Push/Pull doesn't give you much more performance so dropping it isn't likely to harm temps by much - especially given that it's on the smaller rad.

It would probably look neatest to have the rad flush with the case and then a fan on the inside but given that you want it as an intake (for cooler outside air) and that pull is, I believe, significantly less efficient, this doesn't fit. Also, the rad needs a couple of G1/4 stops on the rear ports which may mean you can't make it flush with the case anyway - so case, fan, rad seems like the way it's going to go if you do that. It gets you a bit of tube routing space but not a lot.

If you put a straight fitting in the block and came directly towards the camera, would it clear the fan? If not, you've either got to remove the fan (which you may do for aesthetics anyway) or as you said, a double 45 to kink round the corner. You could probably also get some downward tilt on it from that too so that it's pointing vaguely towards the rad port. Then a 90° on the rad (with extensions if the fan is still there) should do it.

orbitalwalsh · 9 May 2016 at 14:44

970 Twin Turbos have arrived today, so i'll quickly snap one in to see clearance I have and if i'm able to set up Push Pull as the front. If i can, i'll have the fan in Pull showing off the blue brace to mimic the front. If i cant then I'll have the fan as push showing the rad face again, mimicking the front rad.

a straight fitting can just fit! more then likely down to 13/10mm fittings and tubing which will help!

Cenedd · 9 May 2016 at 15:20

If it only just fits you might end up with the fan abrading the tube so you might be better to go the double-45 route if you end up keeping the fan there. It's a bit suck-it-and-see to be honest. I'm a bit cautious of saying "Yeah, a double-45 here and a double-45 there....and oh, you've got no profit margin" being as you're planning to sell these.

orbitalwalsh · 10 May 2016 at 17:40

Slotted in the 970s, can't do Push Pull and looking tight !!

Cenedd · 10 May 2016 at 17:53

Not unless you drop the res down through the PSU shroud far enough that the pump and pump-top drop clear....but then you lose the drive bays below. Probably not worth the work or decrease in flexibility for whoever buys it to be honest.

orbitalwalsh · 10 May 2016 at 19:49

Cenedd said:
Not unless you drop the res down through the PSU shroud far enough that the pump and pump-top drop clear....but then you lose the drive bays below. Probably not worth the work or decrease in flexibility for whoever buys it to be honest.

Need the HDD rack below

Possible route

Cenedd · 10 May 2016 at 20:01

Won't work. By the time you screw a straight onto that double 45 you won't have any room for tube. What about one of the following:

1. Double 45 on the block kinking over towards the rear of the case and then up towards the rad. 90° on the rad and a straight(ish) link between the two.

2. Extenders on the rad port to required amount. Then 90° pointed at block. 45 as is on the block.

3. Hard tube bent by hand

orbitalwalsh · 11 May 2016 at 17:08

Managed to bolt in the Res/Pump and added cables for a quick overall colour scheme

Left with two options for the flow meter. Something different

Cenedd · 11 May 2016 at 17:12

Colours look good.
Flow meter would definitely solve the tube routing dilemma! Can you stick an LED in the back of it and make a feature of it?

orbitalwalsh · 11 May 2016 at 18:57

Not this one but so have blue coolant.
Torn between the two location. By the pump I could do a drain. But by CPU easy to solve connection issue

Cenedd · 11 May 2016 at 19:42

It's a Primochill flow indicator, right? Looking at the picture on OCUK's listing, it seems there is an included LED module to screw into one of the spare G1/4 ports. The acrylic plug in the top of the pic.
Failing that you could always get a blue version of one of these.

Worst case, you could drill your own 5mm hole and shove a molex-powered LED in. Top left where there's a thread not drilled looks good - picture
I happen to know that the Dremel 561 Multi-Purpose Cutting Bit is a pretty good fit for a 3mm LED (the smaller variety) if that helps

If EK aren't going to supply the block pre-drilled, I'm going to get Dremel'y with it

I'm sure their warranty department would understand

orbitalwalsh · 11 May 2016 at 20:37

Just realised there's was an LED plug in the box.
CPU location makes it a bit harder to hide the cable but could go to the left and behind the GPUs.

So far have sorted CPU to Rad to Res inlet...
Hopefully cut sinks for the GPUs tomorrow and see how they line up

orbitalwalsh · 12 May 2016 at 12:39

got around to uploading Better pics

I've got EK UV Blue liquid but thinking a different colour may be needed, like the previous had Red to break up the White and Black. Been suggested White but maybe orange?