Upgrade family PC?

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I am looking to update my current family PC to future proof it for quite a few years and also the family wants to move from Windows 10 to Windows 11 in the not-too-distant future. I have tried the usual registry work around hacks found on You Tube to move from Windows 10 to Windows 11, but after two attempts it restored itself back to Windows 10 because the hacks did not work.

Current PC specification
Early this year, a new Monitor 32” iiyama G-Master GB3271QSU (1440P) was purchased.

All other parts purchased from Overclockers in 2017 consisting of:
Antec Nine Hundred Tower case (rebuilt many times now without old Hard Drives see note1).
Corsair HX 620W Modular Power Supply.
LG DVD writer
Gigabyte GA – AB350 -Gaming 3 Rev.1 (Socket AM4) Motherboard (not Windows 11 compatible)
AMD Ryzen 7 1700 processor (not windows 11 compatible- not on Microsoft windows 11 cpu list)
MSI nVidia GE-Force 1060 Gaming X + 6G Graphics card
RAM 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) DDR 4 3000 (Team Group Inc)

Note1. This year, the Windows 10 Home operating system along with all data (see note2 below) cloned from my old 2TB Seagate Barracuda to a Crucial 2 TB PCIe 3.0 NVMe 2280 M.2 SSD.
Note2. The Data includes music (*.flak files) + 52 years of photographs (slides and photographs) and also videos taken with Sony Video 8 recorder and put onto DVD RAM disks (caddy less ones) and converted to *mp4 by me and now stored on the Crucial NVMe.

Back in the 1990s I ran a small business along with a friend building PCs (as well as being an RAF aircraft engineer) and personally built around 150 machines. Having had all that experience, I find myself at a loss and confused on how to proceed to upgrade because of the plethora of options available to me after being away from building for 7 years. I have been looking at the following:

Any ATX AM5 motherboard or ATX AM4 motherboard? Wi-fi not essential but which one?
Ryzen 5 7600 or Ryzen 5 5600?
32 GB DDR RAM DDR4 or DD5?
Possible easy to assemble case such a SAMA? I could go down to a small form factor case because I have a portable USB 3.0 DVD R/RW. The only reason not to do is because of the full height nVidia Ge-Force 1060 graphics card. Perhaps sell this on?


All thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated. Please be gentle I am an Octogerian. The PC will be used for normal day to day stuff (email browsing, accounts, photo + video editing that I need to get into and perhaps light gaming). I do not have a budget as such but would not be restrained by sensible suggestions. Perhaps around £500. This figure is not set in stone as I do not wish to buy the wrong kit nor do I want to spoil the ship for a ha'p'orth of tar.

Thanks in advance.
 
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this is incorrect, the motherboard does not determine compatibility with win 11


this is correct.

the cheapest course of action (albeit can be a bit finicky) is that you or someone you know that is more well versed with computers... (sorry not trying to be patronising)
1) updates the motherboard bios (from here: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-AB350M-Gaming-3-rev-1x/support#support-dl-bios )
2) then swap out the ryzen 1700 for the ryzen 5600 and you're good to go
3) you can then upgrade to windows 11 with no other upgrades needed

Thanks. I missed this! I can move forward now and update the BIOS to the latest F52 dated March 22 2024. Will I see Secure Boot and TPM selectable in the new BIOS?
 
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Update.
I contacted Gigabyte support and they gave me advice on upgrading the BIOS. The advice was much the same as a previous member said.
Support said:
lease kindly update bios with following step: F9d-->F31-->F40--F53

GA-AB350-Gaming 3 (rev. 1.x) Support | Motherboard - GIGABYTE Global

How to Update Your BIOS Part 2: Q-Flash and BIOS Recovery (aorus.com)

Please kindly refer to the Windows 11-related bios settings:
CSM support disabled+AMD fTPM enabled + Secure Boot enabled
When you enable the Secure Boot option, please select the Secure Boot Mode option as Standard, and you do not need to input any keys.
If the secure boot doesn't show "active", please follow the step below:
Select secure boot mode to "custom"-->Press F10-->Select secure boot mode to "Standard"-->Press F10.
Thank you.Your GIGABYTE team
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately, there seems to be a failure of some sort that I have advised them of. It is as follows:

After upgrading the bios to F31, it rebooted as it should, but on restart it stops at the GIGABYTE Logo. No matter what I do, I cannot get into the Bios using the keyboard. I have even reset the Bios several times. I even took the CMOS battery out and left it for an hour, fitted a new battery. Still no joy.
Later I removed the win10 NVME and restartarted. It then kept looking for an operating system. Naturally, I cannot get into the BIOS to change it. i have changed the Bios F31 file to GIGABYTE.bin, but the same applies.
Any advice is accepted.
The next stage if it cannot be fixed, is the very reason I started this thread. Get a new motherboard, Ryzan CPU with 32GB RAM.
I would be most grateful for any suggestions. I do not have a budget as such and will re-use the rest of my kit as listed so please advise
Thanks in anticipation.
Peter
 
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Did your clear the CMOS using the jumper on the motherboard?

Manual page 12 number 14
Update.
I contacted Gigabyte support and they gave me advice on upgrading the BIOS. The advice was much the same as a previous member said.
Support said:
lease kindly update bios with following step: F9d-->F31-->F40--F53

GA-AB350-Gaming 3 (rev. 1.x) Support | Motherboard - GIGABYTE Global

How to Update Your BIOS Part 2: Q-Flash and BIOS Recovery (aorus.com)

Please kindly refer to the Windows 11-related bios settings:
CSM support disabled+AMD fTPM enabled + Secure Boot enabled
When you enable the Secure Boot option, please select the Secure Boot Mode option as Standard, and you do not need to input any keys.
If the secure boot doesn't show "active", please follow the step below:
Select secure boot mode to "custom"-->Press F10-->Select secure boot mode to "Standard"-->Press F10.
Thank you.Your GIGABYTE team
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately, there seems to be a failure of some sort that I have advised them of. It is as follows:

After upgrading the bios to F31, it rebooted as it should, but on restart it stops at the GIGABYTE Logo. No matter what I do, I cannot get into the Bios using the keyboard. I have even reset the Bios several times. I even took the CMOS battery out and left it for an hour, fitted a new battery. Still no joy.
Later I removed the win10 NVME and restartarted. It then kept looking for an operating system. Naturally, I cannot get into the BIOS to change it. i have changed the Bios F31 file to GIGABYTE.bin, but the same applies.
Any advice is accepted.
The next stage if it cannot be fixed, is the very reason I started this thread. Get a new motherboard, Ryzan CPU with 32GB RAM.
I would be most grateful for any suggestions. I do not have a budget as such and will re-use the rest of my kit as listed so please advise
Thanks in anticipation.
Peter
Yes!!!!
 
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If you want to drop the 1060 and still have some light gaming capability:

My basket at OcUK:

Total: £492.91 (includes delivery: £7.99)​

The case isn't very small, but it does have an optical bay for a DVD drive bay.

Intel/DDR5, keep your 1060 (no DVD drive bay on this case):

My basket at OcUK:

Total: £436.84 (includes delivery: £11.98)​

I'd highly recommend swapping the 12400F for the discounted 12600KF (around £150-£160).

If you wanted a graphics upgrade too (RX 6600 would be cheaper, but I don't know if that would impact your photo/video editing):

My basket at OcUK:

Total: £550.91 (includes delivery: £7.99)​

I assumed you re-use your DDR4 memory.

Rough comparison of the performance of each CPU (single thread, multi thread):

Ryzen 7 1700: 1999, 14819
i5-12600KF: 3935, 27426
i5-12400F: 3511, 19539
Ryzen 5 8600G: 3839, 25195

Thanks. Excellent information. I appreciate it.

I am leaning toward doing the following:

Keeping:
Antec Nine Hundred Tower case. It has excellent cooling with 1 large top fan + 4 others (2 front 1 side and 1 rear) to
Corsair HX 620W Modular Power Supply.
LG DVD writer
MSI nVidia GE-Force 1060 Gaming X + 6G Graphics card
Crucial 2 TB PCIe 3.0 NVMe 2280 M.2 SSD.

So all I would need to do is fit the following:


But swapping the i5 12400F for the discounted 12600KF.

Does this make sense?

Regards Peter
 
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As I'm sure you know, the ladies prefer PCs to be small and quiet so you should look at ITX or mATX. If you were not limited by budget I would suggest one of the higher-end uSFF boxes like the Beelink GTR7 Pro.


Well, I never. There is a coincidence!!!!!!
I was keeping it quiet because I went down that route. I was embarrassed and did not want to pad out my original thread.
I purchased a Beelink GTR7 from Amazon 1 month ago and found there was a problem with graphics in Windows 11.
I had two 1440p monitors at the time. A BenQ 1440p that was 7 years old and my new iiyama 1440p. The Beelink would only see them as 1080p. There were other issues as well. I even joined their forum. If you look it is full of people complaining about issues.

Within 7 days I contacted Amazon. I have been a Prime member for many years, and in the end returned it and got a full refund.

Now I am here and staying.
 
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Yep! Though, the 12600KF doesn't have a cooler in the box, so I'd look at something like the Assassin Spirit (£15) or if you want to go all-out, the Phantom Spirit (£35).
Thanks. I also need thermal paste.
I did not see the 12600KF discounted on Overclockers. Is it?
I would prefer the motherboard without wifi. I wired my lounge and two bedrooms in my house with cat 5 in the 1990s, so wifi not essential. This was when I ran a game server in the data center in New York.....from my house near Oxford.
 
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Hi mate really sorry to hear you're having issues with the bios update. Could I suggest a possible workaround?
Could you try the bios with an empty SSD and a windows bootable iso?
Reason being is that it sounds like you're still able to POST to the point of searching for an OS...this will mean that the mobo should be able to find the bootable usb stick, and also mean that you may be able to do an installation of windows to the SSD, hopefully bypassing whatever issues the bios is having.
(You can download the windows 10 bootable usb from Microsoft website but you'll need the use of another pc)
Thanks I had already created a bootable USB stick. I will give it a go tomorrow. I have a blank 500gb ssd as well.
Having said that, I cannot figure out why it gets stuck at the Logo, but with the WIN 10 nvme removed, it looks for a bootable drive of sorts. In the end, I have still got to get back into the BIOS, whatever media is loaded. Go figure.
Peter
 
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I can only see the 12600KF at £229.99! Where is it discounted?
OK. I presume I will have no problem with Windows 11 being the latest hardware?
Sorry.....It might be niaive to ask, but things fly by and one loses touch after 7 years away from building a PC!
 
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I submitted yet another query to Gigabyte the other day, however, they have not replied to my BIOS stuck at the logo screen, I must presume the AB 350 gaming3 is finished(bricked). I see many reports of others having the same so I am going to do a new build with some bits from my old rig.
I have several questions as follows:

1. I am going to keep my:
MSI Geforce 1060 + 6 GB for the time being.
My 2TB Nvme M.2

And purchase the following:
Midi Case with 6 fans.
MSI B760 Gaming Plus WIFI (LGA 1700) DDR5 ATX Motherboard.
TeamGroup Vulcan 32GB (2X16GB) DDR5 PC5-44800C36 5600MHz Dual Channel Kit
Intel i5 12600k processor. (google my friend)
Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE CPU Air Cooler, PA120 SE.
The main question is, will my Corsair HX620W Modular Power Supply be up to the task if I do not overclock the CPU?

2. I did see a comment about the above motherboard having the wifi module in one of M.2 slots. Surely not? Not that I will be using the M2. slot nor the WiFi module.

Thanks in Anticipation.
 
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i'm guessing the windows boot usb + blank ssd did not work then?
Just to expand on this, I removed the SSD, but as soon as I tried all USB slots, it just kept giving me a flashing cursor. Even if I had got it to boot, there would have no way to get back into the front end of the BIOS to do anything. None of usual keyboard inputs would work.
 
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I'd stick with it unless you really need to save the money, but that was my spec, so I would say that :D
I am not trying to save money! That is why I am asking all these naive questions. After being out of touch for 7 years, I need to catch up. It is simple enough for me to build one after building 150 or so back in the 1990s. I started with a 286 and MSDOS 3.0. Then Windows 3.1.
 
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i think i found a workaround.

seems like it's an nvme m.2 issue. try with a sata drive/ssd?

PS are you flashing the bios within windows (using the @BIOS utility)? you should flash within bios itself (using the q-flash utility)
Thanks...excellent read on.....
I was and I still am using Q Flash utility. Anyway, I have removed the nvme, fitted my old blank Samsung SSD and put my USB media in the USB3.2 in the back of the PC and it worked. I am in the BIOS and it shows F31.
I am now going to follow the Bios route that Gigabyte advised me to take.
F31
F40
F53.
I will keep you posted. No pun intended.
 
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@GunRunner
let us know how you get on :)
once the bios is updated you can drop any ryzen 5000 series chip in and you can upgrade to win 11
saves spending a pretty penny...

you don't really need to upgrade to 32gb ram either as it doesn't sound that the computer is being used heavily
I am now going to follow the Bios route that Gigabyte advised me to take.
F31
F40
F53
.
A lot of swappng around, but that has done it. Now all I need is a later CPU. Which chip do you guys recommend?

I can then go to Windows 11.

Thanks
 
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