Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Aug 2004
- Posts
- 7,607
Allo everyone, I still lurk about don't post as much as I used too. Just thought everyone (some of you) might like to see some pics of some upgrades I've been doing in the last week. Might be helpful to someone if they are thinking of doing similar upgrades and wonder whats involved.
First job was to strip out the air con, I've never used it and the gas has completely leaked out over the years. So I thought I'd save a tiny bit of weight and save some space.
On the left under the turbo was the air con pump and on the right infront of the rad was the big aircon rad. You can still see the silver piping at the back of the engine that also had to come out.
The big air con rad.
The Denso air con pump.
Next up I had to gain access to the condensor unit in interior heating unit. Also came in handy for the next two mods.
The now empty box and the condenser shown on the right. No idea what it all weighs as I have no scales. Gonna sort something out though
Next up was the fitting of the Apexi EL Boost gauge and the HKS Turbo Timer Type-1.
I already had the proper HKS Daihatsu ignition harness so that just plugged into the ignition barrel and timer. I then removed the ash tray and ash tray bracket to fit the turbo timer. Two wires had to run to the ecu which is mounted upside down behind the glove box. One wire to monitor RPM and the other for vehicle speed. Another wire ran to dash for a ground and a fourth ran to the switch on the handbrake.
Access to some of the wiring. (Silver box on floor is for electric power steering I think, not the ECU). Completed wiring was tidied up with cable ties and electrical tape, also keep an eye out for where wires can rub against things etc.
The timer in action.
Next up was the boost gauge. I took the feed from the back of the HKS SSQV and ran the piping back along where the aircon piping was and in through the bulkhead where the aircon used to be. Bulkhead holes covered back up with gromets to keep out water and dirt. You can see the small pipe in the left hole of the two holes.
I decided to fix the boost gauge where the sensor used to be for the central locking. (I broke the fob years ago and never got a replacement) So I removed the sensor and plugged it back in and secured it under the dash. The wiring for the light in the dial was taken from the ground and 12v feed from the wiring connectors that plug into the dash.
Next up was a quick and cheeky mod, a Pivot Raizin volt stabilser and earthing kit. A common mod on Jap Miras. You have to watch out when buying theses as theres lots of cheap chinese copies about.
http://pivotjp.com/imitation/imitation-raizin-e.html
You run earth cables from a terminal you fit to negative on the battery to various places on the car, Alternator bracket, inlet manifold, distributer (if one there), bulk head, body earth. The volt stablizer sticks to the battery and connects to the negative terminal and the live on the battery. The Mira did seem to run a bit smoother and throttle response seems better. Probably a placebo effect but some people swear by em.
There we go and thanks for reading
Oof limited to 5 pics so Ill follow them up
First job was to strip out the air con, I've never used it and the gas has completely leaked out over the years. So I thought I'd save a tiny bit of weight and save some space.
On the left under the turbo was the air con pump and on the right infront of the rad was the big aircon rad. You can still see the silver piping at the back of the engine that also had to come out.
The big air con rad.
The Denso air con pump.
Next up I had to gain access to the condensor unit in interior heating unit. Also came in handy for the next two mods.
The now empty box and the condenser shown on the right. No idea what it all weighs as I have no scales. Gonna sort something out though
Next up was the fitting of the Apexi EL Boost gauge and the HKS Turbo Timer Type-1.
I already had the proper HKS Daihatsu ignition harness so that just plugged into the ignition barrel and timer. I then removed the ash tray and ash tray bracket to fit the turbo timer. Two wires had to run to the ecu which is mounted upside down behind the glove box. One wire to monitor RPM and the other for vehicle speed. Another wire ran to dash for a ground and a fourth ran to the switch on the handbrake.
Access to some of the wiring. (Silver box on floor is for electric power steering I think, not the ECU). Completed wiring was tidied up with cable ties and electrical tape, also keep an eye out for where wires can rub against things etc.
The timer in action.
Next up was the boost gauge. I took the feed from the back of the HKS SSQV and ran the piping back along where the aircon piping was and in through the bulkhead where the aircon used to be. Bulkhead holes covered back up with gromets to keep out water and dirt. You can see the small pipe in the left hole of the two holes.
I decided to fix the boost gauge where the sensor used to be for the central locking. (I broke the fob years ago and never got a replacement) So I removed the sensor and plugged it back in and secured it under the dash. The wiring for the light in the dial was taken from the ground and 12v feed from the wiring connectors that plug into the dash.
Next up was a quick and cheeky mod, a Pivot Raizin volt stabilser and earthing kit. A common mod on Jap Miras. You have to watch out when buying theses as theres lots of cheap chinese copies about.
http://pivotjp.com/imitation/imitation-raizin-e.html
You run earth cables from a terminal you fit to negative on the battery to various places on the car, Alternator bracket, inlet manifold, distributer (if one there), bulk head, body earth. The volt stablizer sticks to the battery and connects to the negative terminal and the live on the battery. The Mira did seem to run a bit smoother and throttle response seems better. Probably a placebo effect but some people swear by em.
There we go and thanks for reading
Oof limited to 5 pics so Ill follow them up
I couldn't live with the boost guage in that position.
