Asus P5E Intel X38 (Socket 775)

valerian

valerian

valerian

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hi
has anyone got one of these, and can they tell me if its got a backplate on it, like the gigabyte equiv, which will inhibit me putting on my ifx14 cooler
cheers
 
There is a copper plate on the back but im sure it is behind the northbridge chipset and not the cpu.

Wait for someone to confirm though first.
 
valerian said:
hi
has anyone got one of these, and can they tell me if its got a backplate on it, like the gigabyte equiv, which will inhibit me putting on my ifx14 cooler
cheers
Click to expand...

Got mine yesterday but it is not up and running yet. That heatpipe from the SB to the NB is a real pain to remove. The backplate is just fixed with the 4 NB screws. Undo those and it falls off. The SB bit came off as soon as i released the two pins but the NB would'nt budge. They used some sort of heat pad on it. It's like plasticised rubber and is like super glue. In the end i cautiously used a hairdryer to heat up the heat sink a bit and with a lot of twisting and pulling it eventually came off. However, the crap that is left on the NB IHS will not come off with the likes of TIM clean. I had to carefully scrape it off with a stanley knife blade. Finally got it done so i can now fit my waterblock on the NB.

The heatpipe around the CPU socket can stay on as it's a seperate section.

****Edit**** If you just wanted to know if there is a backplate on the cpu socket then the answer is no.
 
The Asus website is a nightmare, does anyone know what ram this board supports?

I need to know whether it will take 4 gig of GeIL PC2-6400C4 800MHz Ultra Low Latency DDR2 Dual Channel
 
Would think so - it is pretty much the same board underneath as the Maximus and I had 4x1GB Geil Ultra in my Maximus for a short while.....
 
Still debating on going for the X38 Asus route at £140 its temping considering it is more future proof with Pciexpress 2.0, and only 20 quid more then the Abit ip35 board but seems these X38s are running hot and some are saying not quite as high overclocks as the P35 boards?!

Hard to make a choice ! I only wanted perhaps a mild overclock of my Go Q6600 to 3ghz as a total 1st time overclock with least amound of trouble, any ideas on that ?
 
Well never really had any experience with P35 (borked a Blitz with a bad BIOS flash ! and stayed with my P5DH until Maximus :D)...but have to say the X38 seems pretty fine to me so far......so simple to get 400Mhz FSB, just dialled it in and off you go - no further changes needed.......that's just my early stable test :)
 
kevpuk said:
Well never really had any experience with P35 (borked a Blitz with a bad BIOS flash ! and stayed with my P5DH until Maximus :D)...but have to say the X38 seems pretty fine to me so far......so simple to get 400Mhz FSB, just dialled it in and off you go - no further changes needed.......that's just my early stable test :)
Click to expand...

cheers m8 good to know ;)
 
pastymuncher said:
Got mine yesterday but it is not up and running yet. That heatpipe from the SB to the NB is a real pain to remove. The backplate is just fixed with the 4 NB screws. Undo those and it falls off. The SB bit came off as soon as i released the two pins but the NB would'nt budge. They used some sort of heat pad on it. It's like plasticised rubber and is like super glue. In the end i cautiously used a hairdryer to heat up the heat sink a bit and with a lot of twisting and pulling it eventually came off. However, the crap that is left on the NB IHS will not come off with the likes of TIM clean. I had to carefully scrape it off with a stanley knife blade. Finally got it done so i can now fit my waterblock on the NB.

The heatpipe around the CPU socket can stay on as it's a seperate section.

****Edit**** If you just wanted to know if there is a backplate on the cpu socket then the answer is no.
Click to expand...

Hi am in the middle of the same doing, any other further tips you can recommend on how to get that sucker off?

Ive undone all the pins which came off easily apart from that main big one in the middle its like superglued on !

Also did u use that same white thermal pad on the other heatsinks on the right and back of the cpu socket? u know that white sorta thermal tape or did u take it off and just use artic or silver there?

Thx in advance:)
 
HighlandeR said:
Hi am in the middle of the same doing, any other further tips you can recommend on how to get that sucker off?

Ive undone all the pins which came off easily apart from that main big one in the middle its like superglued on !

Also did u use that same white thermal pad on the other heatsinks on the right and back of the cpu socket? u know that white sorta thermal tape or did u take it off and just use artic or silver there?

Thx in advance:)
Click to expand...

The only way i could get the damn thing to budge was to heat it (carefully) with a hairdryer. The NB heatsink heats up very quickly. Gently twist it and it should suddenly come lose, literally, it just lets go. Bad news is the stuf that sticks it to the NB IHS does'nt all come with it. As it's as hard as plastic it does'nt come off using TIMclean either so i had to carefully scrape it with a stanley knife blade. Take your time and be patient or it can go horribly wrong.

I did'nt remove the top heatsink around the cpu socket as there was no need. It's a seperate section of heatpipe and as i am only watercooling the NB i left it on. I also notice that the Thermalright Mosfet coolers only use a thermal pad anyway.

At the moment my rig is still in bits. When i rebuilt it last weekend i went to boot it up and it was dead. I instantly thought i had killed it with the hairdryer. Took all the components out one by one with no joy. Swapped the psu for a spare and it booted. Yet another psu failure. I RMA'd the psu back to where i got it from and it is found to be faulty but they had none the same in stock. Did'nt want another anyway. Got my money back in full and am replacing it with an Antec Truepower Quattro 850w. Bit overkill but at least it will last me a while. I have stuck the 8800GTS on the bay and am waiting until the 19th to see how the new GTS and ATI's offerings do before i rebuild.

There's a new bios out by the way. Bios 0303 for P5E.
 
Last edited:
thanks my ifx14 will fit -just
but if you put 2 120mm fans on it, you have to take one off if you have the Corsair 2GB DDR3 DHX 1333C9DHX TwinX (2x1GB)
due to the heatsinks on the ram
 
pastymuncher said:
The only way i could get the damn thing to budge was to heat it (carefully) with a hairdryer. The NB heatsink heats up very quickly. Gently twist it and it should suddenly come lose, literally, it just lets go. Bad news is the stuf that sticks it to the NB IHS does'nt all come with it. As it's as hard as plastic it does'nt come off using TIMclean either so i had to carefully scrape it with a stanley knife blade. Take your time and be patient or it can go horribly wrong.

I did'nt remove the top heatsink around the cpu socket as there was no need. It's a seperate section of heatpipe and as i am only watercooling the NB i left it on. I also notice that the Thermalright Mosfet coolers only use a thermal pad anyway.

At the moment my rig is still in bits. When i rebuilt it last weekend i went to boot it up and it was dead. I instantly thought i had killed it with the hairdryer. Took all the components out one by one with no joy. Swapped the psu for a spare and it booted. Yet another psu failure. I RMA'd the psu back to where i got it from and it is found to be faulty but they had none the same in stock. Did'nt want another anyway. Got my money back in full and am replacing it with an Antec Truepower Quattro 850w. Bit overkill but at least it will last me a while. I have stuck the 8800GTS on the bay and am waiting until the 19th to see how the new GTS and ATI's offerings do before i rebuild.

There's a new bios out by the way. Bios 0303 for P5E.
Click to expand...


Cheers but I think that horrible bit has got me tad worried, I did the hairdryer bit and it worked a treat it just popped off after a bit of twisting.

The issue was I used a flat screwdriver to scrap the thick grey plastic chewing gum off and it has left lots of scratches on the northbridge !

There light scratches though so hopefully shouldnt make a difference.... I mean there was no otherway to get that stuff off it was like solid 1mm thick.

I think ill be ok considering people lapp there northbridges a lot and seem to be ok.

I hope anyhow lol !

The thing is there must be very poor heat transfer to the north bridge cos of that gunk, I dont see how that chipset can cool at all when its blocked 90% !

Goodluck with your build, yeah GTs out soon good time to shop just as long as its done before 2 weeks till crysis/UT3 ;)
 
HighlandeR said:
Cheers but I think that horrible bit has got me tad worried, I did the hairdryer bit and it worked a treat it just popped off after a bit of twisting.

The issue was I used a flat screwdriver to scrap the thick grey plastic chewing gum off and it has left lots of scratches on the northbridge !

There light scratches though so hopefully shouldnt make a difference.... I mean there was no otherway to get that stuff off it was like solid 1mm thick.

I think ill be ok considering people lapp there northbridges a lot and seem to be ok.

I hope anyhow lol !

The thing is there must be very poor heat transfer to the north bridge cos of that gunk, I dont see how that chipset can cool at all when its blocked 90% !

Goodluck with your build, yeah GTs out soon good time to shop just as long as its done before 2 weeks till crysis/UT3 ;)
Click to expand...

You should be ok. It's not as if it's the NB itself. It's just the IHS. That's also why i used a stanley knife blade. Pig to get off though is'nt it!! I have to agree with you about the stuff being able to transfer heat. It's just like plastic. Can't see how that would work at all.
 
tried acetone on the plasticy crud? nail varnish remover?

best thing i know commercialy for disolving plastic, and i'm a graduate chemist......

shouldnt be conductive either, so should be fine fingers crossed.
 
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