I need a new bicycle, I think.

blitz2163 said:
I use Continental City Ride cost me around £20 for the pair from wiggle.co.uk great tyres for racing round town without spending a lot of cash
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Woah thats actually quite cheap, shows how much Halfords rip people off, got some road tires from them but they were just like halfords own brand and they cost £20!.

Even if I managed to fix my current bike would a pair of these decent continental tires do any good? See now I'm thinking of fixing up my current bike and getting a new one mainly because if I bought that Mongoose Tyax Elite 2007 I would be worried about leaving it locked up in the bike park at college, they say its got cameras all over but I still would be worried leaving it there incase someone decided to damage it :\.
 
dunker said:
yep the nicer the bike the more chance it'll get nicked :(
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I'm wondering if the reason my gears broke on my sracen was because someone had went along and damaged it, because when I got to college and locked it up it was fine, came back, sat on it, gears were all slack and litrally not connected to the gear changer, looked down, bit of metal that held this thing near the gears was like really loose, pushed it slightly with my finger and it came off, any vibration or any knock would have made it come off, but then again makes me think would anyone do something like that instead of just try nik the bike or buckle a wheel?
 
willhub said:
I'm wondering if the reason my gears broke on my sracen was because someone had went along and damaged it, because when I got to college and locked it up it was fine, came back, sat on it, gears were all slack and litrally not connected to the gear changer, looked down, bit of metal that held this thing near the gears was like really loose, pushed it slightly with my finger and it came off, any vibration or any knock would have made it come off, but then again makes me think would anyone do something like that instead of just try nik the bike or buckle a wheel?
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People that do that sort of thing dont care about nicking the bike they just like damaging other peoples property so theres a very good chance somone came along and done it.
The continentals made a good difference on my trek4500 compaired to the included tyres for going around town and only takes me around 20mins to change both over when i want to head to cannock chase for some off roading and yes halfrauds is a huge rip off cost me £10 for 2 inner tubes only bought them from there because I was in desperate need at the time and the postal strike was on.
 
might just be age fatigue in the mech hanger? you could let an lbs have a look at it doubt it would cost much to fix.
 
blitz2163 said:
People that do that sort of thing dont care about nicking the bike they just like damaging other peoples property so theres a very good chance somone came along and done it.
The continentals made a good difference on my trek4500 compaired to the included tyres for going around town and only takes me around 20mins to change both over when i want to head to cannock chase for some off roading and yes halfrauds is a huge rip off cost me £10 for 2 inner tubes only bought them from there because I was in desperate need at the time and the postal strike was on.
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Hmmm I might order some of those continentals off the net then. I really want that bike I hope I might be able to get it by christmas, untill then me saracen will have to do, its fast enough when there is no wind, just its hell going into the wind, makes me wonder how some people cope, I hate having to plan my route around the wind :(.

dunker said:
might just be age fatigue in the mech hanger? you could let an lbs have a look at it doubt it would cost much to fix.
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eh?
 
willhub said:
That Mongoose Tyax Elite 2007 looks good, you think it'll weigh less than my saracen and I'll be able to push faster on it and sutain higher speeds?

Thanks for the help, I'll read up on that website and get to know how to maintain me bike if I get this new one, at least if I get the new one its something to motivate me to learn.
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Ignore recommendations for MTB if you're riding on road. If you DO want a new bike for on-road riding then look up that bike type list I gave earlier.

Since you've got £100 then I would just get your bike sorted out.

just its hell going into the wind, makes me wonder how some people cope, I hate having to plan my route around the wind .
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That's because you're upright. A strong headwind hardly effects my speed, unless it's gale force.
 
badbob said:
<£250- brown sausage



If the BB is rusted to the frame I certainly wouldn't continue spending money on it. That's if it is of course.
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aluminium doesnt rust does it....

you will always be able to remove that BB even if you just need a bigger tool or stronger arms


with a 100 quid budget id buy some cheap rigid forks and get a bike shop to look at the gears for you .
 
badbob said:
Ignore recommendations for MTB if you're riding on road. If you DO want a new bike for on-road riding then look up that bike type list I gave earlier.

Since you've got £100 then I would just get your bike sorted out.



That's because you're upright. A strong headwind hardly effects my speed, unless it's gale force.
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Hardly effects your speed? is that because you are downwards or something? usually if the wind is pushing me I can average about 20mph, but when the wind is against me I average about 12mph and sometimes give up, in the city it dont effect me as much thought because buildings shelter me from the wind.

Is there no normal bikes or multi purpose bikes that I can get speed on, so I'm kinda faxing downwards so wind dont effect me as much and so I can go off road on dirt tracks etc..? I just cant imagine going everywere on one of those bikes, almost certainly going to get stolen or damaged.
 
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aluminium doesnt rust does it...
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Some MTB frames are steel.
Alumnium does oxidise, so BB/frame and seatpost/frame bonds to each other. Harder to remove then rusted steel parts tbh.

Hardly effects your speed? is that because you are downwards or something?
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Basic aerodynamics. Try riding a road bike. On your MTB your upper body acts like a sail.
 
yep when you ride a road geometry setup you have a much lower riding position where your upper body is much closer to parralel with the road rather than the sat up right position of a MTB
 
blitz2163 said:
yep when you ride a road geometry setup you have a much lower riding position where your upper body is much closer to parralel with the road rather than the sat up right position of a MTB
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Cant I just raise the seat? So if I was on a racing bike, wind pushing me and doing 20mph, then I go into the wind so its against me I could still easilly achive 20mph?
 
mech (derailer) hangers, hold the rear derailer onto the frame, usually. they're made of softer metal than your frame so they break before the frame does.
 
willhub said:
Cant I just raise the seat? So if I was on a racing bike, wind pushing me and doing 20mph, then I go into the wind so its against me I could still easilly achive 20mph?
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Raising the set helps, if your sitting position is already low (most kids I've seen on MTB have the seat post right down) When you're sitting on the seat, with the crank at six o clock your legs should have a slight amount of bend, not straight. But you cannot get around the fact that MTB have short TT length. ie you can't make a road bike out of a MTB.

You cannot get 100% aerodynamics either way, although a road bike will help reduce the amount of drag.
 
badbob said:
Raising the set helps, if your sitting position is already low (most kids I've seen on MTB have the seat post right down) When you're sitting on the seat, with the crank at six o clock your legs should have a slight amount of bend, not straight. But you cannot get around the fact that MTB have short TT length. ie you can't make a road bike out of a MTB.

You cannot get 100% aerodynamics either way, although a road bike will help reduce the amount of drag.
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What about when I get up off me seat and get into a certain position, you know how it is when people start to push really fast off there seats, surely a position like that helps decrease wind resistance but also tires out quicker by looks of it.
 
That's called "bonking" usually used for sprints.
If you want a fast aerodynamic bike just buy a road bike. It really is that simple...trust me once you ride a road bike you will NEVER use that barge of a MTB on road.
 
badbob said:
That's called "bonking" usually used for sprints.
If you want a fast aerodynamic bike just buy a road bike. It really is that simple...trust me once you ride a road bike you will NEVER use that barge of a MTB on road.
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I'll have to MTB on the road, would you think it would be a good idea getting a road bike and going to college on it and parking it in the bike park at college??, is there any insurance or anything so you are protected against thiefs and vandals?
 
Like I said, if you're riding on road get one of those bike types I've mentioned. Since you're in college probably carrying books so get one with panniers. Tourers look mundane so shouldn't be nicked.
No idea about bike insurance.

I wouldn't use a nice road bike everyday to work/college. Go to a bike shop, and look around. Check frame for rack/pannier and mudguard fittings. These are my two bikes

helium_the_frame.jpg


giant-ocr1-montage.jpg
 
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