Cupra 20vT Cam Belt/Aux Belt Q's

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Hi,

I've got a 52 plate Cupra which has hit 53k on the clock. Recently I heard that the Cambelt change is now recommeded at 40k, so obviously I need to get that done soonish. I have contacted Seat and they are currently doing all cambelts for a fixed price of £299.99, which I didn't think was too bad. My brother works for Volkswagon and he said the same job on a Golf GTi is £400.

Anyway, does the Aux belt (by aux I mean the one that goes round the alternator etc.) have to come off whilst fitting a cambelt. The reason I ask is that I have this rather odd, chirping/squeeking noise when pulling away. Now I know what a slipping fanbelt sounds like, but this is more mechanical. If you give it enough revs, it doesn't make this sound at all. I can make it do it by simply putting it in 3rd at say 10mph and then give it some gas. It makes the noise until the engine is no longer laboured and then returns to normal. Trouble is, I can't get it to do this whilst stationary so that I can diagnose it. It will kind of make the noise if I have the handbrake on and let the clutch up and stab at the gas. This isn't ideal though and will probably cause more damage. The car seems to be running fine, MPG is the same and it's boosting as normal...

So what I'm asking is, anyone know what this noise could be and does the Aux belt come off during cambelt change, as if it's this that is loose/slipping it should be correctly tightned when re-fitted?

Cheers for any replies.
 
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Does the noise sound almost creaking like?

If so, I'd say its the cam chain tensioner.

And no, the AUX belt doesn't need to come off for a Cam Belt change.

EDIT:

Take a look at the side of the engine above the gearbox (passengers side of the engine bay), if there are signs of small amounts of seeping oil, I'd say the seal around the camchain tensioner is shot, and as such, its not getting enough oil pressure to tension the chain.
 
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Does it do it only when the engine is warm?

Look for a leaking valve cover seal round the right side of the engine.

Could also be a bearing, alternator or PAS pump.
 
Take a look at the side of the engine above the gearbox (passengers side of the engine bay), if there are signs of small amounts of seeping oil, I'd say the seal around the camchain tensioner is shot, and as such, its not getting enough oil pressure to tension the chain.

Just gonna have a look - but first, is this gonna cause serious damage, hopefully getting the cambelt done in the next couple days.
 
A failing or leaking Cam Chain Tensioner will usually rattle worse when the engine is warm due to the oil being thinner, depending on its state of failing it might only rattle when warm, however if you had this issue you would hear it quite loud, it sounds like a gearbox grind for a split second, or an old French TDI at startup.

I'm going to say slipping belt or worn bearing on the PAS / AC.
 
Not strictly true Mark, mine never sounded like a diseasle, it just had a vibration/creak on pulling away with low RPM. However, 53,000 miles is very early for it to be going :confused:
 
[SKR]Phoenix;11226917 said:
I have contacted Seat and they are currently doing all cambelts for a fixed price of £299.99

Someone forgot to tell our local dealer - just quoted me £390!
 
Someone forgot to tell our local dealer - just quoted me £390!

This is Seat Coventry - had good service from them in the past. Give them a bell and ask, I was told today they they are on offer at 299.99 for any car.

They did have this offer on before Xmas too. They sent a letter to let me know, but it expired 24th Dec. Guess they aren't busy at the moment.
 
Isn't the cambelt due at 60k?
Mine is a 52 plate also, and is on 59K. It needs a full service, cambelt, water brass impellor, and at least 2 new tyres soon. Near enough a grand that I'm trying to save up for by the time it hits 60K. Touch and go till then.
 
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Usually it's 60k or 4 years. Seat sent sent me a letter Nov advising that Cambelt change was recommened at 40k/4 years. Maybe they are touting for business, but mines over that age anyway, so will be getting it done.
 
Cambelt is being changed tomorrow morning. A bill I don't need, but need the car next Wed, so essential.

As to what the noise is and if it can be repaired, I will let you know what they say. The most important thing is the cambelt is being done and IF it's something to do with the Aux belt then that's not as bad as a snapped cambelt. :eek:
 
Long time no see!

Anyway, had the cam belt done as above and all was fine.

Finally got it serviced (last 1000 miles seemed to last forever) and got them to check out this noise. It didn't get any worse and caused no apparent problems.

Turns out it was a Alternator Belt Pulley. So got that changed during the service and it wasn't too expensive. All seems good on that front and there's no noise and I don't understand why, but the car does feel smoother, especially during gear change (more so from 1st to 2nd). They deffo fitted a new one, it's all nice and shiney etc.

Anyway, car goes in for service. Get a call from some service desk monkey telling me that I need a new sump! WTF! So, being polite I get the price off him etc (£241.00) and say I will call him back soon.

Got onto the phone to my Bro (service manager at VW Solihull) and ask him about this. He does say that on the 1.8t unit, they have had probs with sump plugs becoming welded in place, but to speak to the service manager at Seat.

So, got on the blower to the manager and he tells me that I have been given the wrong info! He says that it's a poor design and certainly not my fault (as Seat are the only people to have touched it in the last year). He says not to worry, they will sort it out.

Get a call from service monkey and he says they will heli-coil it as it's not my fault nor theirs, so that will do that free of charge. Fair enough I think, until I go into colect the car and he tells me that several attempts failed. Yeah right, IF you know what you are doing, Heli-Coils are sound!

So....they then agreed to replace the sump, at no charge to me! Sure enough, the next day it was done and all is fine.

During the various conversations, I was also told that because they couldn't get the sump plug out, they couldn't so an oil change. Well, I later found out that this was also BS, as VW have a machine for sucking out the oil through the dipstick tube if this happens. Wasn't even given this option!

I'm annoyed that service monkey was trying to get his commission, but very pleased with the overall outcome.

So, who thinks that the service was done and the sump plug was overtightned or cross threaded, hence the call I recieved saying I needed a new sump? LOL - don't really know what to believe now, but it's been done at no cost to me. No cost to me, always suggests they cocked it up to be honest, but hey ho!

Anyway, Cars now running sweet! :D
 
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I had my LC timing belt and water pump replaced at 40k as the pump was shearing off (I bought the belt and brass impellored pump from german swedish and french for 42 quid all in) then went to a local respected garage and had the lot replaced for 100 quid so shop around, 150 is a lot less than 280-300!
 
I had my LC timing belt and water pump replaced at 40k as the pump was shearing off (I bought the belt and brass impellored pump from german swedish and french for 42 quid all in) then went to a local respected garage and had the lot replaced for 100 quid so shop around, 150 is a lot less than 280-300!

At that price I'm assuming that they weren't genuine VAG parts? I guess it doesn't bother you too much but I certainly wouldn't be using 3rd party bits on something as important as a cam belt. Also you didn't mention if you did the tensioners at the same time..they're abut £40 on their own from GSF. Did you do those at the same time? It's always recommended as they fail just as often as the belts, and a slack belt is gonna do nothing but slip! £299 is a good price for the job using genuine parts.

Seems like bit of a coincidence that the OP receives a letter telling him that the cambelt now needs doing at 40k at the same time as the stealers have an offer on to change it..hmmmm! I've not heard anything about 40k; It's still 60k as far as I know, reduced from the originally specified 80/115k depending on your engine code.
 
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