Anglia Progress

georges said:
The interior looks particularly swish there :)

Can you not just block the throttle jet, or is that a bad idea(lean running I guess)?
Did you just guess the jet sizes or is there a book or something?
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When you whack the throttle open you need to enrich the mixture or it coughs and splutters because it goes lean. For the jetting I've got a book listing all the jets and lots of experience but I've found a really handy little DOS based program called carbcalc that saves rooting through all the lists and formulae.

Mattius said:
where did you get your space matt insulation stuff? was it cheap, im struggling to find a cheap supplier.
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I think I got it from Duksville rod shop at one of the shows but I know it's cheaper elsewhere these days.
 
Nice work there, Mr 69.

I've got loads of stuff to do, but it's mostly outside, and it's too freaking cold at the moment :(

Although I did start to clean up my pistons, con rods and rocker covers on Sunday. The bathroom looked like a lorry had driven through it after though... I'm not sure I'll be allowed to wash stuff indoors again... and I still have 6 pistons/rods and a couple of heads to clean up yet :( :):D
 
georges said:
Ah, fair enough. Do other carbs do it a different way then, to reduce consumption?
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The SU carb, for example (the Stromberg works in a similar way), uses a floating tapered needle in a fixed jet. As the engine revs increase a piston connected to the needle is forced upwards by the airflow, removing the tapered needle from the jet and releasing more fuel. The needle is also shaped so that the mixture can be adjusted at various revs. For example, it may be slightly thicker at 3000rpm than at 3500rpm, thus restricting fuel and leaning out the mixture at 3k, and enrichening it slightly again at 3500rpm as maybe the engine flows more air at 3500 and so needs slightly more fuel at that range.

There are hundreds of needle shapes for these carbs and you really need to map the basic power across the range on a dyno or rolling road and then choose the correct needle to provide max power at all rev ranges. It can take a lot of time and effort to get it right.

The piston is also damped by oil in these carbs, so that under snap throttle the needle doesn't suddenly shoot up to a profile where it is supplying enough fuel for say 6k rpm, but the engine is still just above idle. Just because the throttle is wide open, it doesn't mean the engine is actually pumping it's maximum amount of air.

This dampened movement helps the carb provide a smooth increase in fuel according to the rev range and this, in turn, keeps the fuel economy down and stops the engine spluttering and dying from over fuelling.

I don't really know much about webber or holley type carbs, I'm sure Jonny could elaborate on their function is you ask nicely :D
 
Holleys and Webers work pretty much the same way as each other. The SU and Ford's VV carbs for example are variable venturi designs while Holleys and Webers are a fixed venturi with a jet to squirt fuel in to richen it up initially. I'd say the VV design is the more efficient because it meters the fuel in rather than wehey shoot a load in but then Weber DCOE's and Holleys are performance carburettors and economy isn't priority. What you do get is instant throttle response and instant wide open throttle that you don't get with a VV.

volospian said:
I've got loads of stuff to do, but it's mostly outside, and it's too freaking cold at the moment :(
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I was hiding in the flat pretty much the whole weekend :D
 
Not really as much as the throttle pumps, I had no vac advance on my last engine but it had a 23/36DGAV (downdraught carb off a 2 litre Pinto) and it was a lot lighter on fuel. The fact that you can make the engine bark and scream tends to force you to do it at every opportunity too :D
 
First of all, good evening. I apologise in advance for any rubbish I may be speaking because I've been out for a curry and copious amounts of beer :)

I've been stockpiling some goodies ready for fitting. First up is the exciting bit, I will give you a hint:

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Not obvious enough huh, how about if I showed you an end...

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Ok, final hint; the other end:

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The more astute among you will have guessed this, it's a strut brace ;D and I've been meaning to get one for ages but spotted this one for sale second hand and unused. That's two Milton parts on the car now!

The next set of goodies are exciting in their own kind of way because it means I can start putting the chrome and shiny stuff back on the car and making all the electricary lighting up stuff work again, probably.

Panel fixings:

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Self tappers:

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Crimps:

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I got fed up keep having to buy this stuff from Homebase you see, so I bulked up while the going is good. These will join my box of 500 split pins in the 'things my kids will probably inherit' section of my garage but I won't have to go out to buy them ever again.

My rear brake hose has been on the car since I've had it so figuring it's probably a bit perished I bought a new one. The clutch hose is the same so I got two:

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Out back I've fitted the bootlid on my nice freshly painted hinges. I managed to chip the paint not once, not twice, but actually not at all which makes a change:

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This leaves me with a working bootlid, but more importantly a working boot that I can start filling with junk again. Here you can see I've started filling it with some old alternators, manifold, pack of gaskets, lead light, some old rope etc:

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So to sum up I've not done a lot but I've take loads of pictures and typed some rubbish to justify it. I've done something and I guess it's better than nothing. Proper work should commence soon, I'll get the other one MOT'd in the week and off we go again.
 
arrgggg coloured crimps! i started using them and now they are the bain of my life trying to find them all and remove them.
 
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