I want 'club speakers'.

Forgot to mention the main problem I'm having with the PA.
If I was just plugging the mixer into 2,900 watts of Mackie Actives I wouldn't have a problem but I decided to buy this device also : http://www.dbxpro.com/PA/PA.htm

This really is an amazing box of tricks but I shouldn't have used it on the 1st night or until we'd had a proper session with it.
When I was setting it up in the house I decided to put a CD through it.
I messed with the graphic and the first 2 frequencies did absolutely nothing when turned up to full and I mistakenly left them there.
The first frequency to do something was 50hz and the bass drum kicked in.
On stage those lower frequencies were being used and we had a bit of boom on the bottom end and it was the following night I realised I'd left the sub harmonics on full.

Theres an anti feedback device built in but it didn't work because I hadn't read the instructions.
Last night I set it up which means turning the PA up to level then turning the mic fader until its feeding back and its now the circuitry kicks in and stops it enabling me to get another 6db without feedback.

Last night we went on to a packed audience and I knew the PA was going to sound amazing.
We kicked in and straight away people are pointing to their mouths indicating they couldn't hear me.
I'm looking at the mixer and everything looks fine but fans are shaking their heads.
I stopped the song half way through and got on my hands and knees in front of the mixer and DBX Driverack.
Somebody (probably me) had pressed a bypass button in which meant the Driverack wasn't working.
I pressed the button, we kicked in and everybody was smiling.
So much to learn and I haven't got on to the Auto EQ, Compression & Limiting yet.
 
dmpoole said:
I very nearly bought the Behringer but I was made to spend double by the PA experts in Sound Control.
I also haven't had a good time with Behringer gear over the years.
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If ya wanted to spend more then you could have got a DEQ2496 also. :p

I must admit, a lot of Behringer stuff is pretty sub-par, but the DCX and DEQ seems to be the exception to the rule... There was a dodgy batch of them, but apart from that they seem pretty bullet proof. :)

Still, the DriveRack is a good unit and it should do everything you want it to, definitely look into limiting first, nothing worse than cooked voicecoils! :eek:
 
MikeHunt79 said:
Still, the DriveRack is a good unit and it should do everything you want it to, definitely look into limiting first, nothing worse than cooked voicecoils! :eek:
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At the moment I've got compression & limiting turned off.
I'd like to use the Auto EQ which means plugging a Condensor mic into the front and it sends pink noise to the speakers.
The only problem is it sounds like a jumbo jet landing and theres no way landlords would let me do that for 2 mins.
Theres an excellent DBX forums with all the help I need - thank goodness.
 
dmpoole said:
At the moment I've got compression & limiting turned off.
I'd like to use the Auto EQ which means plugging a Condensor mic into the front and it sends pink noise to the speakers.
The only problem is it sounds like a jumbo jet landing and theres no way landlords would let me do that for 2 mins.
Theres an excellent DBX forums with all the help I need - thank goodness.
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There's no need to do Auto EQ at war volume. ;) Try it with the gains on your amp down a little. Also, I'm not sure about the driverack, but with the DEQ2496, they recommend a certain mic (ECM8000 I think it is) for best results. You may find there's a certain mic intended for the driverack which should give better results...
 
MikeHunt79 said:
There's no need to do Auto EQ at war volume. ;) Try it with the gains on your amp down a little. Also, I'm not sure about the driverack, but with the DEQ2496, they recommend a certain mic (ECM8000 I think it is) for best results. You may find there's a certain mic intended for the driverack which should give better results...
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There is at a cost of £80 but the forums say I can use my SE Condensor.
I'll try the lower volume EQ and apparently I can do a fast one.
 
dmpoole said:
There is at a cost of £80 but the forums say I can use my SE Condensor.
I'll try the lower volume EQ and apparently I can do a fast one.
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You really only need it just above speaking level, but in larger rooms you'll want it a bit louder.

I'd also try it outside if possible, as this will show you how your system is without any reflections from walls and ceilings.

I'm hoping to get my system finished at some point, already have the amps, XO and 1 horn sub, I plan to eventually have 4 horn subs and 4 tops once I'm done, but that will be a while off yet, as I'm making the enclosures myself from plywood. :cool:
 
MikeHunt79 said:
You really only need it just above speaking level, but in larger rooms you'll want it a bit louder.

I'd also try it outside if possible, as this will show you how your system is without any reflections from walls and ceilings.
Click to expand...

On the DBX forums you are supposed to take it outside, Auto EQ each stack individually and then copy those results to the output EQ and that stays the same forever.
You then go inside and Auto EQ for each gig on the input EQ.
 
u could get 1 or 2 good car subs + amps then get some good speakers. job done...

im using 2 500w car subs and 1 1000w car sub, which give great bass, also using 8 pers of speakers (300w each)
 
gareth170 said:
u could get 1 or 2 good car subs + amps then get some good speakers. job done...

im using 2 500w car subs and 1 1000w car sub, which give great bass, also using 8 pers of speakers (300w each)
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Car subs are designed for cars. A cars cabin is smaller than a room, so it's easier to fill with bass (pressurise). Surely it's better to get PA gear as it's designed to fill a room (not car) with sound. A lot (but not all) car subs tend to be a little OTT with their specs also, especially their power ratings... I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's often harder when using gear that's intended for something else.

What amp are you powering your car subs with? Make sure you check your impedance, as a lot of amps don't like 2 ohm loads...
 
MikeHunt79 said:
What amp are you powering your car subs with? Make sure you check your impedance, as a lot of amps don't like 2 ohm loads...
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the 2 500w subs are 4ohm. the 1000w sub is 2ohm... i'm using car amps (TL-1092) and an another car amp for the 1000w sub...

(TL-1092) Specifications:
Maximum output power
2 x 750 Watts @ 2 ohms
2 x 500 Watts @ 4 ohms
1 x 1000 Watts @ 4 ohms (bridged)
Frequency response
20Hz ~ 20KHz ± 1 dB
Input sensitivity
< 200 mV
Signal/Noise Ratio
98 dB
Separation scale
> 50 dB
Speaker impedance
Stereo output: 2 ~ 16
Bridged output: 4 ~ 16
Treble control
10 KHz ± 10 dB
Bass control
100 Hz ± 10 dB
Power supply
DC 12V
Dimensions:
(length x width x height)
280 x 200 x 50 mm

tbh car sub are fine if u just get the right amps..
 
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Well if you are using an amp for each sub you will be fine - I know sometimes people like to hook up lots of subs to 1 amp. I had 2 car subs up to my Phonic MAX1500 for a while and it used to get pretty warm.

You must have a very good 12v PSU tho, if those are Watts RMS then you could be pulling around 400Amps! :eek:
 
MikeHunt79 said:
Well if you are using an amp for each sub you will be fine - I know sometimes people like to hook up lots of subs to 1 amp. I had 2 car subs up to my Phonic MAX1500 for a while and it used to get pretty warm.

You must have a very good 12v PSU tho, if those are Watts RMS then you could be pulling around 400Amps! :eek:
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i have 2 PSU's it wouldn't be good running both amps on 1...
 
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MikeHunt79 said:
Car subs are designed for cars. A cars cabin is smaller than a room, so it's easier to fill with bass (pressurise). Surely it's better to get PA gear as it's designed to fill a room (not car) with sound. A lot (but not all) car subs tend to be a little OTT with their specs also, especially their power ratings... I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's often harder when using gear that's intended for something else.

What amp are you powering your car subs with? Make sure you check your impedance, as a lot of amps don't like 2 ohm loads...
Click to expand...

yeah you just have to check those thiele-smalls, really. most 'car' subs definitely are shash:p my old 12" lightning audio filled my old living room with enough bass alright, and that was powered with a 2x100w denon amp. >105db from 25hz upwards. it wasnt much cop below 25hz really, but it was definitely loud enough for most material.

edit: and you certainly dont need a car amp for a car sub lol

i cant see the use in pa speakers for a living room or anything like that.
 
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