How loud are water pumps??

So 9 fans, eh? Temperatures are one of the most misleading of all measurements. Given that the max temp for your cpu is probably a lot more than you're currently achieving, have you considered simply turning some of them off or undervolting them? Yes, temps will go up but so what? Unless you're in some world championship of temperature-reduction, it's really quite meaningless. If your system is stable does it matter if the cpu is at 79C or 49C?

And, I'm not deliberately being grumpy, just trying to help people make informed decisions. :p
 
MikeTimbers said:
If your system is stable does it matter if the cpu is at 79C or 49C?
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been trying to tell people this for years but I guess if people grasped the fact that if you're within the thermal design of your cpu it should be fine then ocuk or "my other forum" wouldn't exist :)

What a lot of people seriously don't grasp is 9/10 times temp has bog all to do with your clock unless you're sub zero, you're probably just naturally running out of stability/headroom or your ram/mb is giving up.

Still, one thing I totally stand by for watercooling is it looks AWESOME ;) that's why I do it, don't make any bones over the fact that I want my PC to

1) look good
2) be quiet
3) be fast enough to do stuff without annoying me and play modern games at decent res/detail

in that order :)
 
cheers for the replies.

Yeah will dump the reserator from my mind, as this will be ****.

As I keep reiterating, the main reasons for the water cooling is to achieve virtually no sound coming from my PC. Obviously I would be looking at some noise - fans over the rads, 2 x 120mm fans at low power in the case etc (and not forgetting my noisy raptor!)

It appears that my CPU fan is not as quiet as I liked to hope it was when I bought it. It rev's up very easily, and then makes one hell of a racket. Also the stock fans on my GPUs sound like a mini-jet when playing Crysis etc. These things I don't like.

Also is this better?


ON top______RAD___or___FAN
ON Bottom___FAN________RAD

thanks
 
makes very little difference tbh, best config is probably push/pull but different rads have different configs they prefer but it only ever makes a very small difference to temps.

iirc thermochill rads (the only ones I ever recommend) prefer push but I only do pull because that means the dust sticks to the back of the rad rather than the fan side making them easier to hoover :p
 
7v Yate Loons are inaudible and three on a PA120.3 will still give good cooling. This really is a case where you have to spend the money if you want to get the results. Any other rad will not work anywhere near as well with the same airflow.
 
Yeah that thermochill rad is the one that keeps coming up in this forum.
I think I'll go for the 120.3 one, and thus will have to mod my case a bit, but I have seen pics of someone else with a RC-1000 doing this successfully, so all would be fine.

So with a PA120.3 Mike, can I get away with one loop setup? What would the temps be like - bearing in mind that I primarily wish for a quiet setup.

thanks.
 
Can't estimate temps without knowing pump, blocks, etc. But they'll be well below the TDP of the cpu so don't worry about it. Either you want silence or temperature bragging rights. You can't have both! This is a mindset thing; make up your mind and then stick to it. Otherwise you'll spend a fortune and still be disappointed (voice of experience here, believe me!)
 
yeah, well silence it is for me! that's for sure! 100%.

So without sounding too lazy, what pumps, blocks, res' can you recommend?

I have looked at the:
- EK 8800 GTX Full Cover VGA Water Block
- EK Supreme Acetal (Socket A,754,939,AM2, 478 and LGA 775) CPU Water Block
- Swiftech Laing D5 Vario MCP655 12 VDC Pump
- have no idea which res.


thanks
 
For silence, don't use a res. Many of them result in a "whirlpool" noise or even worse. T-lines are silent and cheaper and easier and convenienter and lots of other words ending in er.
 
MikeTimbers said:
Otherwise you'll spend a fortune and still be disappointed (voice of experience here, believe me!)
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that is completely true.. 80% of the time I just want peace and quiet but then I do sometimes have a pang of jealousy (for no good reason I add) when I see people bragging about low idle/load temps (which could well be lies, or different ambient as I live as far south as you can get in a warm house with the pc in the room with a huge window that has unblocked sun access lol) so I ramp up my fans and get a load of noise.

Was it unstable? ever? nope..

So I just turned all my fans off except the rear exhaust fan and obviously the psu.. going to give that a go. Frankly I know when my pc is loaded because I'm playing a game on it so I gan put the headphones on and have the fans on full!
 
MikeTimbers said:
For silence, don't use a res. Many of them result in a "whirlpool" noise or even worse. T-lines are silent and cheaper and easier and convenienter and lots of other words ending in er.
Click to expand...

what??? no bling? how dare you! ;)

they are a living nightmare to fill and bleed in my experience too but then I've only ever had 1 Tline setup so I'm happy to bow to experience on this.

An EK anti cyclon can sort out whirlpooling, no noise from my 2 reservoirs.
 
The D5 will allow you to control its noise to a certain extent because of the built-in dooberry. For a multi-block loop, low restriction blocks are a godsend so consider the new XSPC Edge which is also dead cheap (which is nice). For the gpus get whatever the shop you buy from has in stock. You really don't need super-duper efficiency on gpu blocks as any block is massively more efficient than the standard air-cooling they come with.
 
skippo said:
yeah, well silence it is for me! that's for sure! 100%.

So without sounding too lazy, what pumps, blocks, res' can you recommend?

I have looked at the:
- EK 8800 GTX Full Cover VGA Water Block
- EK Supreme Acetal (Socket A,754,939,AM2, 478 and LGA 775) CPU Water Block
- Swiftech Laing D5 Vario MCP655 12 VDC Pump
- have no idea which res.


thanks
Click to expand...

bang on with the gfx/cpu block.. the pa120.3 is an awesome rad, I'd suggest either a bayres or an ek multioption res with the anti cyclon panel, a full bayres shouldn't make any noise and either way a slight gurgling is actually quite relaxing in my experience, a bit like a fish tank.. personal taste I guess.

I would strongly suggest a DDC 10w or 18w pump with an aftermarket top over the D5. Those D5s are huuuuuuge.

DDCs are tiny and you can always find somewhere to hide them and the aftermarket tops give you top inlet and replacement barb options which are the only downsides to the stock item.
 
T lines are no harder than any other res. You put the T-line directly before the pump and make it long enough to go to the top of the case. You then pour water in. Rock the case around and water will drain down from the T into the rest of the system. Put in more water.

To bleed, just turn on the system and wait. Watch a movie, go to the pub. Hardly difficult is it?
 
for the record I have 2 DDC 18w ultras in my pc and with foam on their bums to stop vibrations I can't hear them over the psu fan.

Swiftech apogee GTX and Dtek Fuzion ref 1 or 2 are both fine cpu blocks you could possibly pick up 2nd hand as people "upgrade" to the EK as its more fashionable. Probably no real performance difference.

Certainly nothing that would hold back a clock.

I'm still quite anti XSPC as their old stuff was junk but I get the feeling they are producing much better stuff now. Their tubing is very good lol!
 
MikeTimbers said:
T lines are no harder than any other res. You put the T-line directly before the pump and make it long enough to go to the top of the case. You then pour water in. Rock the case around and water will drain down from the T into the rest of the system. Put in more water.

To bleed, just turn on the system and wait. Watch a movie, go to the pub. Hardly difficult is it?
Click to expand...

yes it is.. the hole is really hard to get the liquid in, very small! lol..

joking, actually I fill my EK multis by connecting tubing up to the top inlet so its basically the same method.

Not sure if I was doing something wrong but the one and only time I had a T line it was in a shuttle so it was very short and it seemed to be constantly emptying despite the fact I had thoroughly bled the system and there were no leaks. It was about 4 or 5" of tubing that emptied over the course of a couple of weeks, a bit like it was evaporating. I know pvc tubing is porous (to an extent no??) and it was the height of summer but the fact it could start letting air back in did my head in.

Mind you the whole watercooled shuttle was just a bad idea from start to finish.

Back on topic... I really don't see a res being any kind of an issue.. if its full its not noisy, it is easier to fill and bleed even if a Tline is easy enough on its own and you get the bling of seeing a load of liquid in the machine.
 
Using an Eheim 1048 and it -is- silent. It's hooked up to a passively cooled system so I can tell :) If you stick your ear to the case you can just about tell it's running. I have some digital thermometers in the middle of my desk just incase it stops and I don't notice.
It gets noisy if you give it more head height than it can handle, give it an air bubble or block flow.
The only parts of my system I can hear are the CD drive for obvious reasons, and the lil raptor, although even that isn't exactly loud compared to many 7200 disks. The rest of it's cooled by a couple of Papst 120mm fans so there's pretty much no noise coming from under my desk.

Oh and this passively water cooled system is an E6400 @ 3.2ghz and an 8800GTX at 670/2000 :p Cores idle at about 45C, 50C under load.
 
MikeTimbers said:
For silence, don't use a res. Many of them result in a "whirlpool" noise or even worse. T-lines are silent and cheaper and easier and convenienter and lots of other words ending in er.
Click to expand...

t-lines are a pita, you do your research and find a res which makes no noise and it a lot easier to bleed etc.

imo ;)
 
My Swiftech mini reservoir makes no gurgling noise once the system is bled and all the air is out.

The alternative if you don't want a reservoir is a t-peice but I would advise making a long pipe up to the top of your case, make a hole in your case and put a filling plug in the top (google them, you can get them). This has the advantage that you have a nice long pipe so a reasonable amount of extra coolant plus it makes it very easy to fill/top up.
 
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