Watercooling GTX280...

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Hi all,

I'm building my PC around Christmas time and I'm interested in either a GTX 280 or 4870X2.

What I want to know is how difficult will it be to remove all the casing on the GTX 280 to fix a water block? Is it an easy job or can it potentially damage your card in the process? I'm hoping by the time I do mine that there will be plenty of documentation on it.

Do Nvidia want us water cooling their cards?

RoEy
 
Well if you search the internet you will find a version of that card by EVGA that is already released in USA with W/C already installed on it.

I was looking at it last night. The next gfx I buy will be W/C ready.
 
Here they are:

evga.jpg


bfg.jpg


Think I agree with you hotplate. I'll probably buy it ready done to save the hassle unless there is a better water block out there. Only time will tell.

I'm glad the PCB's are black, hate red and green!

RoEy
 
Unfortunately, due to the size of the new cards cores current blocks are not going to fit. However, fitting one yourself is simple. No need to pay a premium for a card with one fitted.
 
Unfortunately, due to the size of the new cards cores current blocks are not going to fit. However, fitting one yourself is simple. No need to pay a premium for a card with one fitted.

See I initially heard it was easy then I read some stories about people killing their cards during installation of the water block. Do instructions come with the desired water block?

RoEy
 
See I initially heard it was easy then I read some stories about people killing their cards during installation of the water block. Do instructions come with the desired water block?

RoEy

Then those people are idiots. Mount the block applying equal pressure to opposite sides.
 
The gtx280 has an IHS anyway, so crushing the core is nigh on impossible...

It's easy to fit a GPU block, remove old cooler (i find removing each screw at a time, altenating sides of the card so that the pressure is kept even, and leaving the 4 core screws untill last.. remove 2 opposiet corner core screws, then unscrew each one a turn at a time - you could just go ahead and remove them all at once in no particular order, but i like to be careful..)

remove all the thermal paste and pads etc, then re-apply new paste/pads. (if you're going to use just paste on the componants such as the memory and mosfets, it's best to fit the new cooler then remove it to see if the contact is good enough... pads are usually a better idea on the memory chips and mosfets...)

I find leaving the water block upsidown on the desk the best way, then you can manuver the lighter (in weight) gfx card into place above the block, and easily line up the holes (if you use thermal pads, it's a little tricky to maneuver/slide the card about to line the holes up perfectly, thus using this method..)

After the card is in the right place, start putting the supplied screws/washers in place. Start with 2 opposite corner core screws, a few turns at a time untill tight (not very tight though... just as they start getting a little resistance..) Then the other 2 core screws, then the rest of the screws. Don't go and tighten them all up as hard as you can, chances are you will warp the PCB of the gfx card, you can check if the PCB is warped by looking down one of the straight edges, you will soon be able to tell if anything isn't straight.

If the card is warped a little, try tightening/loosening some of the screws close to where the warping has occured.. It doesn't have to be 100% straight, but obviously you don't want the board to warp so much that it starts to crack...


How's that for a brief guide? :D
 
Here they are:

evga.jpg


bfg.jpg


Think I agree with you hotplate. I'll probably buy it ready done to save the hassle unless there is a better water block out there. Only time will tell.

I'm glad the PCB's are black, hate red and green!

RoEy

My god, i bet you could buy a small country for the price thats going for :eek:
 
The gtx280 has an IHS anyway, so crushing the core is nigh on impossible...

It's easy to fit a GPU block, remove old cooler (i find removing each screw at a time, altenating sides of the card so that the pressure is kept even, and leaving the 4 core screws untill last.. remove 2 opposiet corner core screws, then unscrew each one a turn at a time - you could just go ahead and remove them all at once in no particular order, but i like to be careful..)

remove all the thermal paste and pads etc, then re-apply new paste/pads. (if you're going to use just paste on the componants such as the memory and mosfets, it's best to fit the new cooler then remove it to see if the contact is good enough... pads are usually a better idea on the memory chips and mosfets...)

I find leaving the water block upsidown on the desk the best way, then you can manuver the lighter (in weight) gfx card into place above the block, and easily line up the holes (if you use thermal pads, it's a little tricky to maneuver/slide the card about to line the holes up perfectly, thus using this method..)

After the card is in the right place, start putting the supplied screws/washers in place. Start with 2 opposite corner core screws, a few turns at a time untill tight (not very tight though... just as they start getting a little resistance..) Then the other 2 core screws, then the rest of the screws. Don't go and tighten them all up as hard as you can, chances are you will warp the PCB of the gfx card, you can check if the PCB is warped by looking down one of the straight edges, you will soon be able to tell if anything isn't straight.

If the card is warped a little, try tightening/loosening some of the screws close to where the warping has occured.. It doesn't have to be 100% straight, but obviously you don't want the board to warp so much that it starts to crack...


How's that for a brief guide? :D

Superb, cheers mate!

RoEy
 
Another vote here for getting your own waterblock and fitting it yourself. EVGA will still honor warranty if you keep the original heatsink so there's no problem there.

Also, you get to chose the best block for the best temps instead of having to stick with theirs. :)
 
I think when your going for the real high end its fair to assume that the block they use would be of a particular standard.

I work for a Japanese manufacturer and we wouldnt weaken a high end product with an average add. We would make it comparable quality and performance.

I think there is always going to be an argument from an "enthusiast" that thinks they can do a better job on there own than the manufacturer. Personally in this case i would be happy to trust EVGA's choice.

Its completely assumptive to say that there are better blocks available for a product that is yet to appear in the UK.
 
Its completely assumptive to say that there are better blocks available for a product that is yet to appear in the UK.


Not really, more of an educated guess. Core only blocks are always going to be better than full cover blocks and it's not like this card is going to output the heat any different to other cards is it?
 
I think there is always going to be an argument from an "enthusiast" that thinks they can do a better job on there own than the manufacturer. Personally in this case i would be happy to trust EVGA's choice.

I know it's an extreme scenario, but isn't that like saying that Intel provide a crappy heatsink with all their general CPU's but then the big, led version that comes with the QX chips is the best heatsink you can get?

Everyone knows that you can buy better heatsinks for CPU's, why is it unreasonable to believe you can buy better waterblocks for graphics cards?

Plus, if you look at the design of the block, it's got the EVGA "E" as the fins for heat transfer - hardly very technically researched eh? I wouldn't mind betting this is one of the worse full cover blocks you could use.
 
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