Changing ones brakes?

Phate · 23 Jul 2008 at 00:44

Is this a hard thing to do?

All of mine need doing, and I'm tempted to order the disc's + pads and do it myself (have a haynes) - in general is this something that is easily done?

Many Thanks,
Jake

Liverpool-Lad · 23 Jul 2008 at 01:09

With the right tools, good jack and axle stands and a couple of hours spare, give it a go.

adam cool dude · 23 Jul 2008 at 01:09

Easy peasy. Just make sure you buy a caliper winding tool.

Phate · 23 Jul 2008 at 01:10

adam cool dude said:
Easy peasy. Just make sure you buy a caliper winding tool.

We have everything, will need to double check the caliper winding tool though.

Now I need to source some brakes!

AtlanticP · 23 Jul 2008 at 01:12

Aye this is no biggie mate, not sure what car you have or the condition of the current brakes. Sometimes the little screws that hold the disc's/drums in place can be hard to get out but an impact wrench normally gets by this quickly. Take your time, make sure everything is tight when finished and also apply copper grease to the backs of the pads and also the inner side of the disc's. Make sure not to get any on the braking surfaces though. You got the Haynes so get stuck in mate :cool:

For disc's and pads, I would normally allow approx 20-25 minutes per corner, awkward bolts etc included.

EDIT: Calliper winding tool not needed mate, place a thin piece of wood on the calliper piston the apply gentle pressure with a large flat bladed screwdriver or bar and push the piston back in. Keep an eye on the reservoir as the levels will rise as you push the piston back in.

rG-tom · 23 Jul 2008 at 01:35

with your luck jake, get someone else to do it, it'll cost you like ten quid!

thedazman67 · 23 Jul 2008 at 01:41

Its easy, i did i full caliper change, fitted braided lines all round new discs and pads new brake fluid in a couple of hours.

Daz

Zuma · 23 Jul 2008 at 08:21

it's easy until something goes wrong, and then you're stuffed cos you have to get someone out to help you fix it. if you have just enough skill to change the pads and no more, then you should not attempt it yourself. you should be prepared to sort out sheared bolts, and seized caliper slides etc.
perhaps on a newer car there is less to worry about, but on an oldish car, all sorts of things can go wrong.

also if you have abs, you need to open up the bleed nipple so you don't push the dirty fluid back up the system into the abs pump.

ci_newman · 23 Jul 2008 at 08:49

AtlanticP said:
Aye this is no biggie mate, not sure what car you have or the condition of the current brakes. Sometimes the little screws that hold the disc's/drums in place can be hard to get out but an impact wrench normally gets by this quickly. Take your time, make sure everything is tight when finished and also apply copper grease to the backs of the pads and also the inner side of the disc's. Make sure not to get any on the braking surfaces though. You got the Haynes so get stuck in mate

For disc's and pads, I would normally allow approx 20-25 minutes per corner, awkward bolts etc included.

EDIT: Calliper winding tool not needed mate, place a thin piece of wood on the calliper piston the apply gentle pressure with a large flat bladed screwdriver or bar and push the piston back in. Keep an eye on the reservoir as the levels will rise as you push the piston back in.

DO NOT do this on the rear calipers as you will seriously **** them up... The rear calipers need to be twisted back in and just pushing them with brute force will destroy them

moss · 23 Jul 2008 at 08:52

Depending on which way the piston rewinds, you can sometimes use a large G clamp to wind the piston back.

Phate · 23 Jul 2008 at 09:22

rG-tom said:
with your luck jake, get someone else to do it, it'll cost you like ten quid!

This....is probably a good idea

Gaijin · 23 Jul 2008 at 09:22

If the calipers are the same as my VTI which I think they are (282mm twin pot front and 262mm single pot rear), I can walk you through the process as I did all of mine.

Its very easy, bar a few things like siezed disc retaining screws holding the disc onto the hub.

Contact me via email or msn and i'll help that way.

Be a man and do it yourself, it's the only way you'll learn!

atpbx · 23 Jul 2008 at 09:26

Its so cheap to get it done, i wouldnt bother getting dirty for it.

Last time i took a car in, got front discs pads and labour for £90 all inc vat on a escort 1.8si.

Firestar_3x · 23 Jul 2008 at 09:31

Hmm cheap pads + fitting all for £90, sign me up!

Not....

Its an easy job to do, doesn't take much time, parts should be cheap also.

atpbx · 23 Jul 2008 at 09:48

Firestar_3x said:
Hmm cheap pads + fitting all for £90, sign me up!

Not....

Its an easy job to do, doesn't take much time, parts should be cheap also.

The car worked, and stopped just fine.
Escort parts were not expensive.

Firestar_3x · 23 Jul 2008 at 10:47

Cheap pads are what £15, so someone has charged you £75 for 45mins work (tops!), i'm in the wrong line of work!

a1ex2001 · 23 Jul 2008 at 10:53

Firestar_3x said:
Cheap pads are what £15, so someone has charged you £75 for 45mins work (tops!), i'm in the wrong line of work!

You missed the discs off your maths for both time and cost.

[TW]Fox · 23 Jul 2008 at 10:54

I changed my pads at the weekend. Parts were £35+vat. BMW wanted £150+vat.

Firestar_3x · 23 Jul 2008 at 10:56

a1ex2001 said:
You missed the discs off your maths for both time and cost.

Ok then, discs are what £20 and pads £15 and thats cost to ME, not the garage.

So thats £55 for a max of 45mins work.

Edit - Infact i've just seen a set on the famous auction site for both for £30 all in.

So the garage can no doubt get the discs and pads for £20.

Toker · 23 Jul 2008 at 11:11

you can wind the rear pistons without a winding tool, I put a wheel spider on the piston and leant on that with reasonable pressure and at the same time wound the piston back in with some vice grips, worked a treat