Baxi Combi Heat HE 105 Problem

I have a Range Tribune HE, 3 story house and the boiler is located on the middle floor. My rads upstaries on top floor dont work or are only half full. The pressue on the pressure dial is 0 when the heating is on its 0.5.
Any idea on what to do on my system. Ive been on the Range website and downloaded there PDF file but nothing in there trouble shooting :confused:

Any help would be appriciated, as its cold in my bedroom.
 
u need to find your filling loop and increase the preassure to above 1 bar they bleed your rads up stairs too then top it up again (preasure) to make sure u remove all air!

I have a Range Tribune HE, 3 story house and the boiler is located on the middle floor. My rads upstaries on top floor dont work or are only half full. The pressue on the pressure dial is 0 when the heating is on its 0.5.
Any idea on what to do on my system. Ive been on the Range website and downloaded there PDF file but nothing in there trouble shooting :confused:

Any help would be appriciated, as its cold in my bedroom.
 
Thanks,

See the Pics - tell me which ones i need to adjust... once i figure it out i will manage fine.

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3150454482_23f4dd73b6.jpg

3149621645_ae176aa1b0.jpg


If you could paste in paint then put an arrow on it, would be soooo gratefull!!
 
Dear lord Ive seen it all, Boiler fanboyism:p

The which guides are quite flawed much of the time so I wouldnt put too much credence in them.

As I said earlier, I work for the company that designs the controls for our friends in Preston, and im party to reliability information, and whilst they have gotten much much better over the years, they are not the best out there as claimed by Which, WB or Bouderous as they are now, and Vaillant are the daddies, but not by as much as they used to be.
 
Thanks,

See the Pics - tell me which ones i need to adjust... once i figure it out i will manage fine.

3150455030_61547596e3.jpg

If you could paste in paint then put an arrow on it, would be soooo gratefull!!

See the little tag on the top pic . . . . . . . :D

Open both the black right angled taps. Gently. Keep an eye on the pressure. Take it up to 1 bar when cold then bleed top radiators. Contiue utill no air is left in them and the boiler stays on 1 bar when cold.
 
See the little tag on the top pic . . . . . . . :D

Open both the black right angled taps. Gently. Keep an eye on the pressure. Take it up to 1 bar when cold then bleed top radiators. Contiue utill no air is left in them and the boiler stays on 1 bar when cold.

This.

Open one of the black taps fully, then use the other one to control the water flow, get it up to 1bar on the pressure gauge (which is probably roughly where the red arrow is pointing to on it).
 
Dear lord Ive seen it all, Boiler fanboyism:p

The which guides are quite flawed much of the time so I wouldnt put too much credence in them.

As I said earlier, I work for the company that designs the controls for our friends in Preston, and im party to reliability information, and whilst they have gotten much much better over the years, they are not the best out there as claimed by Which, WB or Bouderous as they are now, and Vaillant are the daddies, but not by as much as they used to be.


:D


I dont even try to pretend that there is such a thing as the 'best' boiler on the market. Even the most highly rated/expensive singing and dancing this that or the other, they are only as strong as their weakest component. Without even taking into account the competancy/skill/laziness of the installer..

I dont install systems (thankfully) I leave that to our installation guys. I spend my days going from house to house fixing peoples systems. Day in day out. Small terraces to massive pads, doesnt really matter principals are generally the same. Some boilers/system are well designed and installed others are very poor, or manufacturers that have cut corners on cost or done all their technical work in a lab and not on site in the real world..... Keeps me busy and in work :p

Electronics seem to be getting more reliable these days, but this will only be truely discovered in about 5 years time, when we know whats good and whats not.

As with most products in life the real test is releasing it on the public and seeing what happens...With the amount of systems I see in a year (around 1500 jobs a year) It is interesting to see and speak to manufacturers that make changes to their products within its lifespan due to poor design or poor component selection..


What gets my goat is people giving out advice that is incorrect and acting like what they say is gospel!! Our trade (sadly) is full of hollier than tho plumbers. And we have enough dodgy tradesmen in this game as it is.. :(

Ooh too much typing for a simple plumber, must stop :D

Mick
 
The skill set of the heating engineers is a big problem for us, theres so many innovations we could bring in on the control side, even on the stats and prog'er side, we just can do it because the boiler manufacturers are scared of the reaction from the hairy **** brigade :d

Ive often had to look after the tech support for my company on the burner control side, and some of the questions you get asked, are quite scary!
 
Sometimes I get called out just to tell the customer/public how to use the timeclock or digistat....All boils down to how easy it is for the enduser.

Just like mobile phones the technology should be there behind the scenes doing a fantastic job, while making it easy peasy for the enduser to operate.

I've walked on site/job before and had customers say how nice it is to find someone to look at their boiler...Having had previous 'engineers' take one look at their system/boiler and walk off!!! "Sorry *** dont touch them, they are rubbish you should let me fit a new one"

Anyone remember the Vokera Eclipse? That was not a fun boiler! Not sure what they where thinking when they designed the enduser control panel/system for that!

wohoo

As your privvy to insider reliability issues it would be interesting to hear how manufacturers are fairing with their current models ;)

Is it just the controls or do you have info on the hydraulic systems?

Mick

Edit: l u v starred out, strange. Sorry if thread derailing
 
This.

Open one of the black taps fully, then use the other one to control the water flow, get it up to 1bar on the pressure gauge (which is probably roughly where the red arrow is pointing to on it).

& PhillyDee


That was my guess but wanted to make sure - thanks chaps - will do this tomorrow morning!
 
Another Baxi Problem

Hi sorry to hijack the thread yet again, but a friend of mine has a Baxi combi 105 HE and he has searched the net but can not find out how to work the timer on it does anyone have any ideas please? The manual aint helpful :rolleyes:
 
The timer's aren't specific to the manufactured unit... it could have one of any installed.

It should indicate the manufacturer and model on the front of the timer?

This Baxi has a grasslin timer, if you google the name you will get the manuals from their website.
 
EffBee

If your finding that the response time is a bit 'slow' with your room thermostat, you may want to change it for a more accurate digital thermostat. Thats if your sure the stat is 'slow'. And its not a case that the area in which the stat is situated doesnt suffer from 'slow' changes in air temperature..

Modern digital stats are normally around 0.5degress accurate either way, and some of the more better programmable stats (Honeywell for example) have an inbuilt (adjustable in the engineering settings) delay to stop the heating system cycling too often..

Thanks for that FlyingFish - think I'll investigate a digital jobbie. Presumably they use semi-conductor heat sensors which have to be a lot more accurate and sensitive than the traditional older mechanical (bi-metallic strip?) type.
 
Hi guys, sorry to butt-in on this thread, but i'm not sure where else to post!
I too, have a 5 1/2 year old complete new (then) system using the Baxi combi 105e, & over the Christmas break (naturally), it developed a leak, I placed a small bowl underneath & it leaked about an egg cupfull per day.
Since I used to be a heating engineer over 20 years ago, I naturally had to take a look!! But not being CORGI registered, I cant legally touch it!

There are 2 identical micro-switches one above the other, both are clipped to a brass diaphram body, the top one, which I believe to be the diverter-valve, seems to be the one leaking as there is a huge mass of heat-dried 'christaline' growth all over the spring-clip, this, I assume is the furnox or whatever is used nowadays.
My question therefore is this, are these diaphrams available? Is this a common problem? or could I be completely wrong & its something else?
Would this be something a 'normal' plumber/heating engineer can fix, or do I need to contact the manufacturers?
Pressure drops to zero when off, goes to 'normal' i.e. 1.5 to 2.5 during running & all seems ok otherwise.
Thanks in advance.
 
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