fiesta (zetec?) oil question

Matt82

Matt82

Matt82

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13 Mar 2004
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its for an 05 fiesta 1.4 petrol. its due an oil change, it was 5w30 fully synth as far as im aware (im not that clued up on fords..)

being a girls car itll be driven with no mechanical sympathy ever so i want at least a good oil to be going in. any other fords knowledgables got anything to say about this oil wise?

ive got this to go in the sump
Fuchs Titan XTR 5w30
wolthuis.aspx


http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-991-fuc...rmance-fuel-economy-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

TITAN XTR 5W/30 combines a synthetic base oil with the latest and highest performance inhibitors available. Detergent, dispersant, oxidation and corrosion inhibitors and friction modifiers are incorporated to give excellent performance in many modern gasoline and small diesel engines.

TITAN XTR 5W/30 is recommended for all applications where SAE 5W/30 engine oil of ACEA A1/B1, ACEA A5/B5 and/or API SJ/SL/CF is specified. It is particularly suitable for use in the latest Ford gasoline and diesel engines where this type of oil gives maximum fuel economy and engine durability.

ACEA A5, B5
API SL/CF

Ford WSS-M2C 913B
 
I used that (10w40 variant) in the Rover on my last oil change.

It's been in for about 4,500 miles and the car hasn't used a drop of the stuff. The car does sound a tiny bit tappety from cold, but that could be down to the age/mileage of the engine more than the oil.
 
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i have the 10w40 variant in my golf. seems to be a fine oil, meets all the VW specs etc too

your tappets hydraulic? they could just be dirty

the fester is getting its oil change tomorrow. i read up more about the spec and its definately up to the task of spending its life in the engien of a girl's car
 
yup hence my thread, i dont know much about fords at all

so ford have named a trim level after their engine type now? lol
 
Yeah that oil is fine, it has the 913B spec which is Fords own specification.

It does only have API SL though, an oil with API SM would be a better product, although I think I know why that won't be able to claim SM.
 
i read up about ACEA A5 and that seemed to be pretty important, but for spec only actually met ACEA A1.

so what is SL vs SM then?

longer life servicing etc?
 
For 913B you need to meet ACEA A1 plus pass the Ford Fuel economy test which is 3% in the M111 FE engine test, rather than the ACEA limit of 2.5%.

As for ACEA, basically
A1 is economy (2.9 HTHS)
A3 is durability (>3.5 HTHS)
A5 is both fuel economy and durability (>2.9HTHS)

HTHS represents the viscosity of the oil in the bearing conditions (150C and 10^6 shear rate). The lower the number the less friction, however lower numbers need engines with tighter clearances on the bearings.
 
API SL > SM is an upgrade in the American Petroleum Institutes engine oil classification.

SM has harder limits to pass, for example 120 > 90um of wear in the seq IVA engine test, in this test camshaft wear is measured on an idling/low speed Nissan KA24E engine (2.4l 4cy). Obviously the lower the number the better the oil at preventing camshaft wear
 
agw_01 said:
Yeah, the tappets are hydraulic and AFAIK, it's the original head.
Click to expand...

not tempted to do an atf trick on them? thats a very common one in vw circles (the earliest 16v heads are now well over 20 years old) atf sorts them right out.

my 196k engine has silent tappets
 
Simon said:
API SL > SM is an upgrade in the American Petroleum Institutes engine oil classification.

SM has harder limits to pass, for example 120 > 90um of wear in the seq IVA engine test, in this test camshaft wear is measured on an idling/low speed Nissan KA24E engine (2.4l 4cy). Obviously the lower the number the better the oil at preventing camshaft wear
Click to expand...

thanks for your input but thats going a bit over my head (unless i read it and re read it a few times)

i think this will be her engine's 2nd oil change ever, but she does some long distance runs regularly so id rather not have to worry about that (she wont worry, thats for sure!)
 
Yeah I've heard of that, just add a litre or so the oil and run the engine for a few miles? Or do you mean, drain the oil and fill with ATF and then leave it idling for 10 minutes?

Simon, do you have any input on this? Good idea on the T16?
 
agw_01 said:
Yeah I've heard of that, just add a litre or so the oil and run the engine for a few miles? Or do you mean, drain the oil and fill with ATF and then leave it idling for 10 minutes?

Simon, do you have any input on this? Good idea on the T16?
Click to expand...

on cgti people seem to run anything from 500mm to 1000mm in the oil and 200-300 miles depending on the use.

basically in the old golf heads (16 hydraulic tappets) they like to build up varnish over the years. the varnish reduces oil flow into the tappets and they get noisy

due to the huge level of solvents and detergents in atf, it acts as a great clean dissolving varnish.

ive had it in my engine on a few occassions and mine is on 196k now and silent. i knew a guy that my mixture (15w40 semi synth diesel engine oil and 1L atf) in his m50 beemer engine for about 1000 miles. his was a conversion that had sat about for a couple years and the tappets were noisy once he got the engine in and did a couple oil changes. the atf shut them right up
 
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