Be cautious with STI4/5's. Particularly if they've been running on UK fuel without a re-map for any period of time.
They are great cars if in good shape, I had 2 if you count the P1 which was based on an STI5.
They can suffer from a few issues though. They have no oil cooler, so if you run them at high speed (think motorways or dual carriageways, trackdays, runway days etc.) they can easily overheat the oil and cause no end of damage to the engine. They were designed to run in Japan, short blasts of stop/start driving, not high speed runs (plus they are speed limited in Japan). Its scary the sort of oil temps you can get just after 2 or 3 mins at 90mph, removing the plastic undertray under the engine bay drops the temps by a few degrees, so is an easy mod to do.
They are also designed to run on Japanese 100RON fuel, if you try using super unleaded (97) or worse (95) and any amount of enthusiastic throttle use, you can get loads of det, which can melt the pistons and/or put a fair amount of shock on the big end bearings, which may also be suffering from the above mentioned inadequate oil cooling.
STI5's are generally ok if looked after, and decent oil is used. I'd consider a re-map for UK fuel essential. And preferably it should be done before the car has been run for months on UK fuel.
The good news with the STI5 ECU, is that it can be remapped, you don't need to have it replaced with an aftermarket. I had mine remapped by Bob Rawle of BRDevelopments for about £600 IIRC. Afterwards, running on Shell Optimax it had 320bhp and 300lbs/ft (on the rollers at a place near Silverstone), was unbelievably smooth to drive, and didn't det at all even being redlined in every gear.
Other advice I had from Bob Rawle, don't use a VTA dump valve, they run better (smoother - more accurate fuel/air mix) with the standard re-circ valve fitted. Bob had an STI running over 500bhp with the standard Subaru re-circ valve, so if people tell you need to replace it they are telling porkies.
Don't put a cone filter (K&N, Apexi, Blitz etc.) on instead of the standard airbox, unless you can vent cold air directly to it and shield off the warm air in the engine bay. Warm air = less power and more det.
Um, what else (it's been 3 years). Oh, Whiteline anti-rollbars and rear droplinks, and anti-lift kit are a superb suspension upgrade on STI5's. The front droplinks don't need upgrading as they are metal on STI5's and basically the same as any upgraded ones. I had mine done at Powerstation in Tewkesbury who also did 4-wheel laser alignment to their own settings for fast road. I can't describe how much of a difference this made to the handling - it was staggering.
Lastly, I was told by Mike Wood of Prodrive (SWRT guru) that classic Imprezas handle best on 16" wheels for road use. He warned me off buying anything larger unless it was for track use only. Bets thing is to get good quality and light 16", I had some RAYS racing wheels on mine - which were great.
That's about all I can remember off the top of my head, hope it's of some help.
Vampire
Edit: Oh, one other thing is - replace the MAF sensor on the airbox every year or two (they cost about £95 and it's a 2 minute job to do yourself). They are notorious for failing, if they fail quickly it's fine - the ECU detects the fault and the engine goes into 'limp home' mode. But usually they fail gradually, and the engine ends up running lean. Oddly it can sometimes increase the power as it fails and the engine runs leaner and leaner - right up until the point it melts a piston or two. I used to consider the MAF a service item and changed mine every year.