Subaru Impreza - Owners / knowledgeable chaps etc

I've seen a couple P1s going for under or around 10k. I assume you'll get money your way unless the P1 has some well branded mods or very low milage.
 
Cheers mate

someone has just offered a PX with a P1

mmmmm


As said above, you'll want some money your way. They range from £6k to 14K laughably. I had £6k refused on a stolen recovered only for the lad to realise it wouldn't budge and accepted my offer but I'd bought my RA and he was too late.

I have to say like for like with what you want for your car, you might be better off looking at a newage - like the one you linked. The older cars especially specials should really be kept for fine driving. I only use mine when its not been raining, as anal (fnar fnar) as that sounds.

I bought a data monitor thingy today so I can now see lots of info on what the engine is doing (boost, RPM, temps etc) - flashing lights and widgets are a must for any discerning JDM driver :D
 
The old shape "classic" Impreza looks very dated now IMO, so unless it's a bargain or 22B (which I presume will be over budget) I'd look at the newer shapes if I was spending that kind of money.
 
Hi guys, I've been offered a straight swap for my R34 for an STI Type R, the advert for which can be found here:

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/958310.htm

He doesn't know what engine mods have been done, but sent me a photo of the engine bay. I don't know anything about Subaru's so I thought I would see if you guys could spot anything unusual.



Seems a little suspect tbh, but I was considering a change of car.
 
I wouldn't trust a car which the owner themself doesn't even know about. But from the engine looking at it, standard, bar the ignition leads..
 
He doesn't know what engine mods have been done

^ Well there's your first problem.

Anyway, intercooler looks a mess and something fishy going on with the intake pipe too. Other than that it's pretty hard to draw conclusions from just a pic of the engine bay.
 
R34 as in Skyline? Obviously not a GTR?

Add sounds suspect to me. How would you own a car like that and not know what's been done to it? You'd have to know otherwise it'd drop to bits in no time.

Maybe he's trying to shift a turd whilst he can.
 
Cheers guys, yeah that's kind of how I feel about it. The intake and a couple of the pipes look like they have heat wrap on them, which might suggest turbo work, but I really wouldn't know what to look for.

Not surprised the intercooler looks like that on a 10+ year old car, but the lack of mods knowledge is worrying. I asked if he could get it looked over by a specialist, but he said there aren't any near hull, is that true?

EDIT: My car is an R34 GTT, wish I could afford a GTR :D
 
Be cautious with STI4/5's. Particularly if they've been running on UK fuel without a re-map for any period of time.

They are great cars if in good shape, I had 2 if you count the P1 which was based on an STI5.

They can suffer from a few issues though. They have no oil cooler, so if you run them at high speed (think motorways or dual carriageways, trackdays, runway days etc.) they can easily overheat the oil and cause no end of damage to the engine. They were designed to run in Japan, short blasts of stop/start driving, not high speed runs (plus they are speed limited in Japan). Its scary the sort of oil temps you can get just after 2 or 3 mins at 90mph, removing the plastic undertray under the engine bay drops the temps by a few degrees, so is an easy mod to do.

They are also designed to run on Japanese 100RON fuel, if you try using super unleaded (97) or worse (95) and any amount of enthusiastic throttle use, you can get loads of det, which can melt the pistons and/or put a fair amount of shock on the big end bearings, which may also be suffering from the above mentioned inadequate oil cooling.

STI5's are generally ok if looked after, and decent oil is used. I'd consider a re-map for UK fuel essential. And preferably it should be done before the car has been run for months on UK fuel.

The good news with the STI5 ECU, is that it can be remapped, you don't need to have it replaced with an aftermarket. I had mine remapped by Bob Rawle of BRDevelopments for about £600 IIRC. Afterwards, running on Shell Optimax it had 320bhp and 300lbs/ft (on the rollers at a place near Silverstone), was unbelievably smooth to drive, and didn't det at all even being redlined in every gear.

Other advice I had from Bob Rawle, don't use a VTA dump valve, they run better (smoother - more accurate fuel/air mix) with the standard re-circ valve fitted. Bob had an STI running over 500bhp with the standard Subaru re-circ valve, so if people tell you need to replace it they are telling porkies.

Don't put a cone filter (K&N, Apexi, Blitz etc.) on instead of the standard airbox, unless you can vent cold air directly to it and shield off the warm air in the engine bay. Warm air = less power and more det.

Um, what else (it's been 3 years). Oh, Whiteline anti-rollbars and rear droplinks, and anti-lift kit are a superb suspension upgrade on STI5's. The front droplinks don't need upgrading as they are metal on STI5's and basically the same as any upgraded ones. I had mine done at Powerstation in Tewkesbury who also did 4-wheel laser alignment to their own settings for fast road. I can't describe how much of a difference this made to the handling - it was staggering.

Lastly, I was told by Mike Wood of Prodrive (SWRT guru) that classic Imprezas handle best on 16" wheels for road use. He warned me off buying anything larger unless it was for track use only. Bets thing is to get good quality and light 16", I had some RAYS racing wheels on mine - which were great.

That's about all I can remember off the top of my head, hope it's of some help.

Vampire :)

Edit: Oh, one other thing is - replace the MAF sensor on the airbox every year or two (they cost about £95 and it's a 2 minute job to do yourself). They are notorious for failing, if they fail quickly it's fine - the ECU detects the fault and the engine goes into 'limp home' mode. But usually they fail gradually, and the engine ends up running lean. Oddly it can sometimes increase the power as it fails and the engine runs leaner and leaner - right up until the point it melts a piston or two. I used to consider the MAF a service item and changed mine every year.
 
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Wow, that's a really useful post and I think it has made my mind up! The skyline is putting out 320 bhp and has had everything done that needs doing (touch wood) for the foreseeable future. Guess I better stick with the devil I know as that car has only been in the UK for 6 months.
 
Wow, that's a really useful post and I think it has made my mind up! The skyline is putting out 320 bhp and has had everything done that needs doing (touch wood) for the foreseeable future. Guess I better stick with the devil I know as that car has only been in the UK for 6 months.

Its horses for courses really. I nearly bought a Skyline but after years of driving Subaru's I decided it was better to stick with what I know. Besides, one of the most knowledgeable tuners in the UK lives just round the corner from me and didn't seem to grumble too much if I popped round to pick his brains every so often. :D
 
Wow

Thanks for the advice guys i think i may stay clear of the P1. As much as i would love to own one id be too worried it would go bang !!!

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/968299.htm

this is the car in question

Sam

the car has been hardly used and is stored in the garage and this is the main reason for sale as i need the space and as i need to get married am looking for somethin more suitable for the wife and me.

More suitable and needs the space is the reason for him selling his P1 in the advert....!?

Obviously not or he wouldnt be interested in a VX220T would he!
 
Just need this pesky VX to sell, im having loads of PX requests but no proper offers. Only been up 2 days so cant really expect much, not sure if its worth putting this kind of car on autotrader ......

Come on i want a scoob to rip around for the summer :)
 
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