Rover T Series cambelt tensioner - does it need replacing?

Soldato
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Picking up the Ti on Saturday, and it's having a cambelt done.

My question is this - does the tensioner need changing? Been told that they don't need doing unless they're noisy, as they are a solid metal design that rarely if ever fails.

115k on the clock, no history of the thing ever being changed.

Cheers :)
 
Its only going to cost a few more quid to change it, if the tensioner fails it could have exactly the same consequences as the belt snapping, at 115k it would be silly not to.
 
At 115k you would be mad not to change it if it's never been done before IMO. A complete timing belt kit is not expensive for this engine.
 
If you're unsure, change it anyway. It's only a few extra quid and a couple of minutes work if you're in there - if you don't and need to do it again... it's the price that you're paying now, PLUS whatever damage it may do by not doing it now! ;)
 
Not particularly hard to refurb to be honest, as long as it's not completely knackered e.g. damaged compressor blades from touching the housing.

You have to be very careful to mark everything e.g. positions of compressor and exhaust housings w.r.t the the core, and the position of the compressor wheel w.r.t to the turbine wheel, and the position of the nut w.r.t the compressor wheel (since the nut is ground down to balance the compressor side).

The most difficult part is getting the compressor wheel back into the same position on the turbine shaft, marking the shaft and wheel with e.g. a marker pen is simply not accurate enough, and you must never scratch marks into the shaft or wheels. I built a simple U shaped wooden jig that could support the shaft from the centers machined in the end using woodscrews, and with a fixed and moveable pointer. That way I could line the pointers up at the edge of one blade on the compressor and one blade on the turbine wheels, which were then marked with a marker pen.

Changing the bearings and converting to a 360 degree thrust is easy once it's disassembled, but obviously you have to make sure everything is very clean when reassembling.

Mines just coming up to 24k miles since I rebuilt it, and still going strong with no sign of smoking or nasty noises etc.

I would consider an upgrade to a T28 sized turbo though, preferably one of the more modern variants.
 
the golf one got noisey before i changed it. vw wanted about £60 for one, the porker one is well over a ton. its all DIY on my cars so i dont mind spending the money on proper parts
 
The tensioners are nice and simple on the T16. They rarely let go but are worth changing for piece of mind. As Dogbreath says, they are cheap enough.
 
No - you need to remove the belt to replace the tensioner.

Buy it and get it done at the same time, it will save you lots of both time AND money in the long run.
 
It's only a pulley, nothing like a overcomplicated GM piece of crap

with vw stuff, there are so many parts manufacturers which produce complete rubbish. for example i had top mounts and a thermostat from FEBI in the last year, which is meant to be a good make, and they both failed after about 12 months. hence i prolly end up picking the expensive bits, because they work. at least a new tensioner on the golf is a doddle but on something like the porker its a mission
 
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