Nissan 200SX SR20DET Rebuild Project

thedazman67

thedazman67

thedazman67

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Warrington, UK
Hi all,

For those that don't know my 200SX has suffered big end failure as a results i have set about the task of rebuilding the engine with forged internals with a hope to achieving 400bhp and a similar amount of torque eventually.

The intial spec will consist of the following

86.5mm oversized CP Pistons 8:5:1 CR
Manley Rods
Greddy Valve Springs
Horsham Developments Type 1 Head Rebuild
1.9 Metal Headgasket
Mazworx Head and Main Studs
New Oil Pump Internals
Nismo Engine/Gearbox Mounts
ACT Heavy Duty Clutch with Fidanza Flywheel
G28R Ball Bearing Turbo from a S15

After this i will run it as it probably circa 280bhp two reasons for this let the engine run in and i wll be flat broke by then. But when i get more money i will invest in the following

18" / 9" wide rims
DB Power Big Foot Brake Kit 360mm 6 pot Brembo Calipers
300ZX rear brake setup
Apex Type 2 Coilovers
Front and Lower Upperbraces
Subframe locking collars.

After all the above i will be going for broke

GT3071R Turbo flows enough for 450 i think not sure
Nismo 740cc injectors
Horsham Developments Custom Map.

This thread will be a diary of events and my progress as i go along hope you all enjoy. Day 1 is after this post.

Cheers

Daz
 
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Saturday 6th June 2009 - Engine Removal

Today i woke up bright and early at 8.00am to my dismay it was raining :( I would have delayed the engine removal if it wasnt for the fact i had already hired the engine crane and was working on Sunday so i proceeded to colelct all my tools and headed over to my brothers where my car was stored on the drive.

I arrived at my brothers at 9.30am I got in the car and started then engine to get the oil up to temp for draining. Prior to this a few weeks earlier i had already positioned the car on ramps.

The plan for today was to remove the engine with the gearbox attached. Gearbox attached because its easier this way. Anyway with the engine running i climbed under the car to remove the under tray. I immediately realised this was going to be unplesent being under the car didnt stop water drops hitting me. So the fun begins.


IMG_0729.jpg


My mission to get that out and onto an engine stand within the day.

My first task was to remove the most of the bolts attaching the gear shifter to the gearbox. After this the engine was stopped for the final time until i restart it again. The oil was dropped in the usual way. Then i proceeded to remove the intercooler pipes. Radiator. Remove the AC Condensor and PAS pump from the engine block. I also had to remove the turbo and manifold assembly to get access the the engine mount bolt. This was a pita to release and get free. After all this i was left with this.

IMG_0733.jpg


There is suprisingly a lot of space avaliable after you remove the radiator fan and rad cowling. Next task was to remove all electrical connectors and hoses. Suprsingly difficult some of the hoses namely fuel hoses were reluctant to budge. After a long the electrical connectors in the engine bay were remove and out of harms way.

I then clmbed under the car cut the clutch line (got a braided one to replace it with). And remove the various connectors on the gearbox. I then attempted to seperate the propshaft from the diff this puzzled me as there was no way to reach the top most bolts. Anyway a quick check of the internet informed me that you can just remove the prop carrier and let the prop drop. It will slide out of the gearbox once you start lifting it.

With all of the above done i got the engine crane in position and began to lift i had to jack up the gearbox so the engine would lift off the mounts and not catch on the PAS pipes accross the bulk head after several failed attempts i finally got the engine free of its mounts and began to remove it from the bay.

IMG_0734.jpg


We soon had the crane as it maximum height but it wouldnt clear the bay :( so we had to lower it down carefully and reduce the length of the sling. After this was done it still was fraction short but after a little persausion it was free and out :D

IMG_0735.jpg


And this is what i have left behind.
IMG_0736.jpg


Unfortunately i was able to put the engine on the engine stand the bolts i got didnt fit the correct holes. The gearbox is mounted using both M10 and M12 bolts i got the smaller M10 in which there are only 3 of all at the bottom. The majority of the bolts are M12 :( so if anybody knows where i can get M12x100mm high tensile bolts on a sunday would be greatful.

Overall 12 hours was put in today finished at 9.00pm i was flithy i was unable to free the gearbox oil drain plug it all spilled out onto the floor (dont worry i put plastic sheeting down). I tell you all crawling around in gearbox, engine oil, antitfreeze and hydroloic fluid isnt plesent my hair still smells of fish and every bone aches.

To leave you all with an amusing image here is me after i had finished everything, excuse the fat face.

IMG_0737.jpg


Next up get it on the engine stand, strip it down the the bare block and assess the damage caused.

Regards

Daz
 
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Dogbreath said:
My friends car suffered this failure (and was subsequently butchered by Norris Designs), but various fanboys have assured me that these engines are not prone to big end problems...
Click to expand...

AFAIK they dont have an inherent big end problem like the s13 does but people do have problems with blocked cam spray bars and therefore cause other things like you mention.
 
#pah.. 400Bhp with all that.. Polo on the SXOC is running more than that on a standard bottom end :eek:

Good luck dude... I am gonna eventually be running that sort of power with mainly bolt ons/mapping etc...
 
Sorry to hear about the failure - from one sx owner to another :), will be keeping an eye on this thread.

Good luck :)
 
Snap! Guess why this came out a few weekends ago:

sr20.jpg


Not big ends, but a spun con rod bearing. Grabbing the bottom of con rod three and giving it a shake made a lovely rattling sound :D

Will also watch this thread in earnest, my friend plans to just reshell the bearings and get the crank ground if necessary, and see how long it lasts.

He's then toying with a built engine or an LS transplant ala driftworks.
 
Skyline said:
#pah.. 400Bhp with all that.. Polo on the SXOC is running more than that on a standard bottom end :eek:

Good luck dude... I am gonna eventually be running that sort of power with mainly bolt ons/mapping etc...
Click to expand...

I know i could go higher hell the rods alone are rated for 650bhp :eek: Im hoping 400bhp will be a happy balance retaining drivability but still has a bit of lunacy about it without resorting to Traction control.
 
Good work! No obligatory standing in engine bay shot just to prove it's not a trick with mirrors?!

I didn't notice a Front Mount on the list of things to do, surely that'd be a necessity!

My SR20's only ever coming out for an RB25/26 ;) However I am just embarking on the rear brake setup from an R32 GTR which'll be nice.
 
numnutz said:
Good work! No obligatory standing in engine bay shot just to prove it's not a trick with mirrors?!

I didn't notice a Front Mount on the list of things to do, surely that'd be a necessity!

My SR20's only ever coming out for an RB25/26 ;) However I am just embarking on the rear brake setup from an R32 GTR which'll be nice.
Click to expand...

To be honest i was so exhausted covered in engine and gearbox oil i just wanted to get home and get bath. As for the front mount already fitted :) Apex Type 2.

I should probably mention its current spec

Horsham Developments Stage 1a ECU Map
Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost Controller @ 17 peak psi
Walbro Fuel Pump
Mongoose Decat Oval Exit
Godspeed Uprated ARBS
Front and rear strut braces
Apex Type 2 FMIC
Goodridge Braided Brake lines, rebuilt front calipers paired with Ferrodo DS2500 pads with EBC Redstuffs on the rears
 
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