Car audio advice..

Soldato
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Just in the process of sorting the sound in my car. Have changed the headunit and soundproofed the doors. Now I'm going to drop some components in the front but am not sure which amp to go for to drive them!

These are the speakers..
Hertz DSK165

Amp choices so far..
Alpine MRV-T320
Alpine MRV-T420

Which one would be the best amp to go for? Or any other recommendations? :)

Thanks,
Andy
 
The first amp you've specified is only driving 50Wrms at 4ohm into an 80Wrms speaker, so I'd be opting for the T420 which is driving 75Wrms @ 0.08%THD.

I'd be more inclined to select one of these:

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/diamond-audio-2502-p-6018.html
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/harman-kardon-ca280-p-6542.html

Better spec, similiar money.

Are you planning on adding a subwoofer, or rear speakers? If so a bridgeable multi-channel amp would probably be a better idea :)

Remember you'll need:
-Live feed from battery to boot
-Earth in boot
-RCAs from HU to Boot (a set for every pair of speakers)
-Speaker wire from Amp in boot to speakers

Hope this helps,
Ant :cool:
 
Didn't think about a multi channel amp.. Was going to just get another separate amp for the sub. However a multi channel one might be better, wasn't going to get a sub for a while but it would save routing two lots of wires and taking the seats out twice!

Any recommendations on a decent multi channel amp? Suppose its hard to make a decision without knowing what sub I want..

Edit: Also why do some list 12v and some 14.4v as well? Shouldn't the battery just be supplying 12v?

Edit 2: Hertz 4 Channel amp
Cheaper Hertz amp
 
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Remember you'll need:
-Live feed from battery to boot
-Earth in boot
-RCAs from HU to Boot (a set for every pair of speakers)
-Speaker wire from Amp in boot to speakers

Also remember not to wire speaker wire next to power wire.
As for the earth, can you not just use any random bolt sticking out of the bodywork? Anyway there should be one associated with the boot release trigger thing.

Edit: Also why do some list 12v and some 14.4v as well? Shouldn't the battery just be supplying 12v?

Unless I'm mistaken, car batteries supply 12V (or near enough) when not being charged by the car, and 14.4 (or near enough) when being charged by the car. Although I could be wrong.
 
For earths in the past, I've drilled a hole in a plate in the boot somewhere on the inside and bolted the cable to that. Seems to do the job! :)

I thought it was something like that with the voltages! Ta! :)
 
Also remember not to wire speaker wire next to power wire.

Indeed!

As for the earth, can you not just use any random bolt sticking out of the bodywork? Anyway there should be one associated with the boot release trigger thing.

Generally it's recommended you use the same gauge for earth as your live feed. The first check with poor audio quality is a crappy ground. Generally it's best to scrape the paint off around a suspension bolt and screw the wire under that using and eyelet crimp.

Unless I'm mistaken, car batteries supply 12V (or near enough) when not being charged by the car, and 14.4 (or near enough) when being charged by the car. Although I could be wrong.

Oi tink so. Nothing to be concerned about.

Didn't think about a multi channel amp.. Was going to just get another separate amp for the sub. However a multi channel one might be better, wasn't going to get a sub for a while but it would save routing two lots of wires and taking the seats out twice!

Any recommendations on a decent multi channel amp? Suppose its hard to make a decision without knowing what sub I want..

Edit: Also why do some list 12v and some 14.4v as well? Shouldn't the battery just be supplying 12v?

Edit 2: Hertz 4 Channel amp
Cheaper Hertz amp

You'll only need one, high gauge wire leading from the battery to the boot. The rest can be wired (use fused distribution if you want to do it properly, which you really should, otherwise just wire them in parallel) from this single feed, regardless of the number of amps. As long as the gauge of the wire is sufficient to carry the current.

You'll have to run a pair of wires from your amp for each speaker in the car, unless you run them in parallel (giving mono sound, which you can also do for a dual voice coil sub) which also handily enough provides you with half the normal resistance (so a 4ohm load becomes a 2ohm load).

So if you've got a sub, and two front speakers, that's two sets of rcas, and three pairs of wire. It's best to use sheilded, but not essential, just don't run them alongside the power cable as previously mentioned.

Either way, are you really taking the seats out, the carpet and all that jazz? For this level of install running it behind the plastic trip along the sides of the car would be sufficient.

Whilst I've not much experience with Hertz amps (their speakers are excellent) the amp seems good spec for the cash. The only downside I can see is that it doesn't seem to be 2ohm stable with bridged channels. No biggy, just limits your sub selection a little. Good skills on soundproofing by the way, heavily underrated, did you find it made a difference even at stock?

Ant :cool:
 
Either way, are you really taking the seats out, the carpet and all that jazz? For this level of install running it behind the plastic trip along the sides of the car would be sufficient.

I've done that in the past and it just doesn't look as neat.. I've had the seats out before and its not a major job, its only four bolts on each and will make the work a lot easier.. I haven't got around to sound proofing the front doors yet, only the back ones, was raining last weekend when I wanted to do them! Am going to wait until I've got the speakers though and hopefully soundproof and fit the speakers this weekend as its a pain taking the door cards off as I have to take the window off the regulator..

The more expensive Hertz amp looks like the one for me to go for.. It will bridge to 320w@4ohms and I've found a nice looking Hertz sub that is 250w! :)

Am going to have to run the speakers off of the headunit for a couple weeks though unfortunately before I have the cash for it.. Spent out the best part of a grand for my headunit last month so need to save my cashes! :(
 
Wow, 1k for the HU :eek: What one?

Considering the price bracket of the HU I don't doubt the speakers will sound fine for the moment, it'll be nice for you to see where your moneys going on the amp :)

Might I suggest you try the Rainbow Hammer 10? Awesome subwoofer, 300watts, dual 2ohm voice coil.

The untidiness thing must be a trim thing. I've run my cables under the interior skirts, there's plenty of room and it's only a couple of screws to get them off, you'd never know. I do drive an escort though :p

Damn this thread! It's tempting me into an upgrade and new boot build (one day I will have my dream 'twin hammer' setup :p)

Ant :cool:
 
That sub is 2x2ohms and the amp bridges to 4 ohms.. Will that affect it?

I bought myself an Alpine IVA-W505R and the Blackbird nav unit that slots into it, was a bit more than I wanted to spend and took me a lot of sweat and swearing to fit but was worth every bit of it! :D Just feels the speakers are letting it down a bit now so its time to change them..
 
That sub is 2x2ohms and the amp bridges to 4 ohms.. Will that affect it?

I bought myself an Alpine IVA-W505R and the Blackbird nav unit that slots into it, was a bit more than I wanted to spend and took me a lot of sweat and swearing to fit but was worth every bit of it! :D Just feels the speakers are letting it down a bit now so its time to change them..

you can wire the voice coils in series to show a 4ohm load to the amp
 
It'll be nice to see what you end up doing Street as I'm hoping to do something similar once I upgrade my 2001 focus to a facelift ebony in a few months.
 
The amps just being mounted in the boot for now, however, I'm planning on getting the local car audio place to do me a small build for the sub in the boot and mount the amp to it when I get it! :)
 
Well was planning on mounting my new speakers in the front today.. Took the drivers side door apart, sound proofed it and mounted the tweeter, then the skies got darker and it was a mad rush to do the rest and get the door back, ended up getting really wound up with the window regulator but after much swearing and nearly going mad got it back together before I got drenched! Managed to get the boot sound proofed too so all that is left is the passenger door then to get an amp and run some wires! :)
 
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