Lapping ?

BIGBC

BIGBC

BIGBC

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Just read the Lapping guide here - http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=17803239

I had never really come across it before which got me wondering wether or not its widely practiced or that advantageous ?
Is it a suitable process for a Q9550 or Q6600 ?
What sort of effects would this have on my air cooler? (ill attatch a picture below) surely that clip would just force the contact further down anyway, would the pressure change much ?

In the pics weescott seems quite happy about touching the underside pin contacts which is something I had always avoided just thinking its best not to, can any damage be done by touching/pressing on them ?
As water is used in the process is there any danger of damaging the CPU with the water ?

Any answers would be appreciated :D
 
It can help to reduce temps or even them up a bit more, i had good results when i done it on a q6600 and a TRUE cooler, it will void the warranty on the cpu or cooler though.
 
keep searching there's threads going that answer your Qs, i know I've created one of em and i no i didn't search before posting it lol

MW
 
Oops, I was just curious and a tad eager on the posting.

heres my heatsink mount -
DSC01510.jpg


surely that would apply enough force for the slight height change to not matter - or is it a greater height change than I think ?

Ive just read 6 threads about it and it seems a lot of people have done it to the cooler/CPU and gained from it.

First 2 questions have been pretty much answered - lots of people doing it to Q9550/Q6600 and the effect on the cooler mount isnt very noticeable.
But no real answers for the latter 2, have seen a few posts asking whether breaking a CPU during lapping was related to water/oil which is kinda worrying lol.

Qood point about the warranty, not sure wether its worth it on a 2 week old chip . . .
 
If you are convincingly thermally limited, then lapping is a way to relieve this.

If you are convincingly voltage limited, then there is little point.
 
Lol i lapped my one the day i got it screw the warranty, i did mine after i checked the temps with it unlapped and after it dropped by about 5-6 degrees on all but one core which had a stuck sensor but i was worth it in my book.
 
well my current temps are -
idle - 40 - 33 - 41 - 41
full - 53 - 45 - 51 - 51

Im yet to overclock it at all but am reading up on it now. Wouldnt hurt to drop those extra few degrees anyway . . . unless it dies further down the line =[
 
I lapped my TRUE to help with temperatures on a e8400, which I lapped. I then changed to a q9550, which wanted more voltage than I was willing to give it while loading at 60. So I didn't lap it. Now my q9550 is (almost certainly) dead and I'm fighting to rma it, so I am glad to have not lapped it.
 
My heatsink is mirror finished, unless its bowed in any way i really wouldnt want to touch it as the surface finish is near perfect.

I think I'll get a decent overclock going and see what the temps are first, then decide whether or not to lap it.
 
Why do you want to use water or oil, when I did my E6600 I never used any liquid solution,all I did was use various grade of wet and dry and when I finished up with p2000 all I did was clean it with tim remover and then purifier solution so the new artic silver would work and remember it takes about 200 hours for the new artic silver to settle temps properly..
 
Wet and dry works better wet, pretty much. It'll also stop you getting metallic dust everywhere, which is a good thing as it avoids shorts.

Putting the little plastic square back on the chip, and electrical tape around the outside to hole it to the chip and seal around the edges gets my vote. Lap it, then clean the surface to remove dust, then remove the protective back cover. This way you can indeed lap it dry with no issues


v compressor would indeed work very well :)
 
Last edited:
JonJ678 said:
Wet and dry works better wet, pretty much. It'll also stop you getting metallic dust everywhere, which is a good thing as it avoids shorts.

Putting the little plastic square back on the chip, and electrical tape around the outside to hole it to the chip and seal around the edges gets my vote. Lap it, then clean the surface to remove dust, then remove the protective back cover. This way you can indeed lap it dry with no issues
Click to expand...

I forgot to add that I used my hobby compressor with an air gun to blow away any dust each time I changed type of paper, A can of compressed air will be just as good..;)
Edit: Also my temps went down about 6-7c idle and 10 c prime, in this weather my cpu temp using intel burn test is around 60c and idle with a room temp of 30c its 36c-38c...
 
Last edited:
JonJ678 said:
Wet and dry works better wet, pretty much. It'll also stop you getting metallic dust everywhere, which is a good thing as it avoids shorts.

Putting the little plastic square back on the chip, and electrical tape around the outside to hole it to the chip and seal around the edges gets my vote. Lap it, then clean the surface to remove dust, then remove the protective back cover. This way you can indeed lap it dry with no issues
Click to expand...

Cheers for that. Im not supposed to be pressing the chip down am I ? Ive heard it said that Im just letting the weight of the CPU do the work (which i can see taking a lot longer).

Ive used wet and dry a lot and the water/oil really does help get a polished finish.
 
Yep let the weight of the cpu do the work .............. I did mine dry and used a can of air to clean the paper every now and again........... if you want a shiny finish lap in gradients down to 2000 and it will give you a shiny finish........... if you want a shiny surface to take a picture of use brasso but make sure you clean it off again before applying tim :)
 
Dont use brasso. It'll very likely attack the copper and leave lots and lots of little pits all over the surface, completely ruining the previous effort. If you want it mirror finished just keep going down to 2000 or so.

I was taught to lap up and down in one direction until finished with that grade, then rotate 90 degrees and go until you can't see any perpendicular scratches. There's a lot of techniques out there, but this one I recommend as I was taught it by the materials lab tech.

Not pressing down will take longer, yeah. But as the cpu is worth significantly over a ton, it's sensible to spend the hours to do it right.
 
I used brasso to see what would happen and it was fine .............. I could understand with a cutting compound or something \o/
 
When I lapped mine I did it on a glass sheet and put tape on the ends of the paper, next I went up and down the paper 30 times then turned it did the same turned it did the same untill it had gone around once checked the cpu and did it again and did that on all gradients till I was using 2000 then I just did it very lightly and it took hours to do it but the end product was worth it..

I used this guide..part one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVXuZTuoEuE
part two

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5L1s1-nXj0o

hope this helps..;)
 
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