Ditching the Sigma 10-20mm.

[Ixon]

I've always used UWA lenses when i wanted to do any landscape stuff ie Siggy 10-20mm which on many occasions has done me proud.

But recently I bought Adobe CS4 & now doing pano's are much much easier even handheld as it put them together perfectly.

The great thing about doing a pano at 24mm, is that i get no edge softness & no distortion.

My Sigma has been sat in the bag for over 3 months now without any use.

So today decided to stick it on a certain auction site.

As all my Landscape stuff will be done with either 3 or 5 shots depending on the scene.

 

[Raikiri]

How well does that work for long exposure things like sea scapes? Assuming you do anything like that, of course.

 

[Derek W]

you could have stuck it into the members market on here as well. save you auction site charges

 

[Wedge]

you could have stuck it into the members market on here as well. save you auction site charges

Yer im after one, is it Nikon fit?

 

[Ixon]

yeah it Nikon fit

 

[Ixon]

How well does that work for long exposure things like sea scapes? Assuming you do anything like that, of course.

Don't know never tried it, I think it would work if you gave each shot the same amount of exposure time on a tripod.

 

[D.P.]

It wont work if you have movement in the frame (water ripples/waves, trees swaying, people, animals) .

I Still think it would be easier to take a single photo than merge several. Maybe you should rent a new lens like the Nikon 12-24 and see if the sharpness is acceptable.

Still, merging multiple photos is a good technique and gives much more MP... You may also find that if you take photos at the sweet spot of the lens distortion is reduced a lot.

 

[Mud]

I Still think it would be easier to take a single photo than merge several. Maybe you should rent a new lens like the Nikon 12-24 and see if the sharpness is acceptable.

Do you mean the 10-24? the 12-24 isn't as new.

 

[Raikiri]

And neither are as good as the Tokina 11-16 while costing £300 more

 

[Mud]

The 12-24mm is the 'plastic pro', don't know about the 10-24mm (though I hear it's better). The Tokina has had some serious QA issues, so what you say is perhaps true if you luck out and get a good one.

If price is no object, they all pale to the 14-24mm and 24mm PC-E though.

 

[D.P.]

Do you mean the 10-24? the 12-24 isn't as new.

Try both, from what i have read the 12-24 is better.

 

[Mud]

You might be right, but they're both overpriced and therefore not very appealing I reckon...once I reach 'halfway to silly money' I usually justify going to whole hog. I could've traded my Sigma 10-20mm for a Nikon 12-24mm plus a few notes, but the IQ was no better and I'd have lost 10mm f/4 for 12mm f/4.

 

[Raymond Lin]

There's a difference between a UWA and pano, the perspective are different, it might work for landscape but when it comes to shots with moving objects, pano are useless.

 

[greengiant]

I've always used UWA lenses when i wanted to do any landscape stuff ie Siggy 10-20mm which on many occasions has done me proud.

But recently I bought Adobe CS4 & now doing pano's are much much easier even handheld as it put them together perfectly.

The great thing about doing a pano at 24mm, is that i get no edge softness & no distortion.

My Sigma has been sat in the bag for over 3 months now without any use.

So today decided to stick it on a certain auction site.

As all my Landscape stuff will be done with either 3 or 5 shots depending on the scene.

Just watch out for parallax errors if you try hand held panoramas with close foreground detail. Also, slow shutter speed images could cause issues with elements of the scene moving between images. It is possible to work around moving elements but it means careful masking of each frame.