Track toy

So the E30 is the better base, but the E36 has the better bits :)

A lot of people tend to start with an E30 then use parts from more recent cars. The E36 range tends to give an easy (ish) route if you want to put a different engine in. The E36 also has better brakes/steering but if you're going to replace parts willy nilly this is a non-issue.
I also think there's something "cool" about the E30. Drive an E30 around and to some people it's a cool and retro car. Drive an E36 and it's an old BMW, nothing more.
 
Dr Who - have a read here, you may find it interesting, this is not meant as an attack, trying to help with a bit of info here

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drifting-chat/34726-fao-welded-diff-fans-nice-fact-ette-you.html

I know many have used them, they can suit some peoples driving styles, but they are not for an inexperienced track driver. They give more power on the exit of a corner which a stock LSD just cant provide, but that is ONCE corner exit power is causing you an issue. Getting around the corner at a reasonable pace first should be most track drivers concerns.

Just as a separate fact, they suit cars that have a tendancy to lift a rear wheel on corner entry quite well, a fast turn followed by straight line application of power can give a good speed increase on the following end of straight, useful for overtaking ;)

But a good properly adjusted plate diff is under most circumstances the best way forward as it will achieve the same results with less push on and less need for aggressive turn in.
 
A lot of people tend to start with an E30 then use parts from more recent cars. The E36 range tends to give an easy (ish) route if you want to put a different engine in. The E36 also has better brakes/steering but if you're going to replace parts willy nilly this is a non-issue.
I also think there's something "cool" about the E30. Drive an E30 around and to some people it's a cool and retro car. Drive an E36 and it's an old BMW, nothing more.

Guess I might have to get an E30 then when I finally get around to this
 
Guess I might have to get an E30 then when I finally get around to this

When you're ready to move on this, decide how much money you're prepared to lavish on it. There's recently been a Ford Cosworth powered touring on the owners club forum that's been sold for parts, for example. The E36 M3 engine transplant (S50 I think???) is another good choice. Vauxhall red tops with Omega 'boxes on the back?? Oh yes sir.

Why not find a good one now and use it as your daily driver, then when the time is right buy something conventional and go hardcore with the E30?
 
I'm OK using my Celica as a DD right now, so anything else I get on the side can wait until I've planned things out fully.

The only issue with the E30 I see is the fact that it will be harder to find out that is not a rust bucket compared to an E36 (price difference between E30 and E36 is not large)
 
rypt, my mate with the E30 might be a good source of info as he has had his 318IS into bits and back again several times. He would be able to help spot the rust too, let me know if you want any input/help from him or to see his drift toy before you get one? He is local!
 
Yeah I suppose the key is that if you are novice drive in a RWD car then maybe a welded diff or even a plated LSD isn't a good idea until you get some good experience under your belt
 
I'm OK using my Celica as a DD right now, so anything else I get on the side can wait until I've planned things out fully.

The only issue with the E30 I see is the fact that it will be harder to find out that is not a rust bucket compared to an E36 (price difference between E30 and E36 is not large)

As long as you're not trying to spend pennies buying one, you'll have no trouble finding a rust free E30. To say some of the owners are obsessive is a bit like saying the sun is a little warm.
 
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